EHC Circuit breaker protection efi/vr

desertdawg

Member
I've purchased the Electronik EHC for my 06 Mastiff and 08 K9 and am a little confused with my 08 efi C/B system. At the left side of the battery tray I've got two circuit breakers, however the bottom two copper posts are bridged. The top left breaker is wired for the fuel pump/02 sensor heaters relay and the top right of right breaker was wired to the pos battery post.
The manual shows 2 seperate breakers, a 40amp for the v/regulator and a 25amp breaker for the pump/02 relay. There's no identification on either relay that gives me a clue as to its specs.
It's the bridge that is strange to me when reading the schematic.
Any help would be appreciated as I've20191208_163446.jpgon read most available electronic threads and it hasn't been addressed.
Thanks,
Ron
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Read CW from top left, begins #1... This is just a guess if I read the factory stud colors on the breakers:
2 = Silver stud Is hot from the battery. However, copper stud wise, battery (+) goes there. But who cares, it's AC working in a DC world, right?
3 = The 12v bridge of the copper stud is hot from battery, right? So 3's amp range should be stamped for 30a. Makings are usually on the side of the dome cover. But to hide both amp ratings inside touching? You'd think one side exposed would have something inked on it by the way they are positioned, yes?
4 = You didn't say but this should be hot to ????
1 = The pump/02 using the silver stud at 20a say.

I'm just guessing again, but the breaker goes; copper to (+) battery post, v/r to breaker's silver stud. There you have a fuse to the charging system. If I want a remote hot harness off the posi post, I can run a piggy fuse and jump breakers as shown.

1 = Something shorts on left breaker silver stud, it heats up to 20a and breaks the circuit.
2 = Is still hot because left stud broke at this breaker. Shows left side of breaker has short, no prob at right breaker.
3 = Bridge fails at right breaker...
4 = ... pump/02 fail too.

How close am I?
 

Mr. Wright

Knows some things
Supporting Member
The bridged side is the battery side, and that's the side to connect the EHC to. They want you to do that, because it's a more solid connection than the battery post.
 
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Jwooky

Well-Known Member
Its not clear from your pic where the wires are going.

Here is how it should be.

The 40 amp should be between the VR and battery
The 25 amp should be between the EFI pump and battery. (It uses the bridge as battery source.)

The Breaker values are stamped on the side of them (25A or 40A)

The terminals are also labeled aux(sliver) and BAT(gold). (Although I'm not convinced it really matters)
The intent would be, the device being protected should be attached to Aux.

So for the VR it would be "Bat", and the battery wolf be Aux, which seems backwards.

For the Pump, it would be Aux, and Battery is Bat
 

Clubba

Member
Its not clear from your pic where the wires are going.

Here is how it should be.

The 40 amp should be between the VR and battery
The 25 amp should be between the EFI pump and battery. (It uses the bridge as battery source.)

The Breaker values are stamped on the side of them (25A or 40A)

The terminals are also labeled aux(sliver) and BAT(gold). (Although I'm not convinced it really matters)
The intent would be, the device being protected should be attached to Aux.

So for the VR it would be "Bat", and the battery wolf be Aux, which seems backwards.

For the Pump, it would be Aux, and Battery is Bat
This is correct
 

desertdawg

Member
Read CW from top left, begins #1... This is just a guess if I read the factory stud colors on the breakers:
2 = Silver stud Is hot from the battery. However, copper stud wise, battery (+) goes there. But who cares, it's AC working in a DC world, right?
3 = The 12v bridge of the copper stud is hot from battery, right? So 3's amp range should be stamped for 30a. Makings are usually on the side of the dome cover. But to hide both amp ratings inside touching? You'd think one side exposed would have something inked on it by the way they are positioned, yes?
4 = You didn't say but this should be hot to ????
1 = The pump/02 using the silver stud at 20a say.

I'm just guessing again, but the breaker goes; copper to (+) battery post, v/r to breaker's silver stud. There you have a fuse to the charging system. If I want a remote hot harness off the posi post, I can run a piggy fuse and jump breakers as shown.

1 = Something shorts on left breaker silver stud, it heats up to 20a and breaks the circuit.
2 = Is still hot because left stud broke at this breaker. Shows left side of breaker has short, no prob at right breaker.
3 = Bridge fails at right breaker...
4 = ... pump/02 fail too.

How close am I?
Read CW from top left, begins #1... This is just a guess if I read the factory stud colors on the breakers:
2 = Silver stud Is hot from the battery. However, copper stud wise, battery (+) goes there. But who cares, it's AC working in a DC world, right?
3 = The 12v bridge of the copper stud is hot from battery, right? So 3's amp range should be stamped for 30a. Makings are usually on the side of the dome cover. But to hide both amp ratings inside touching? You'd think one side exposed would have something inked on it by the way they are positioned, yes?
4 = You didn't say but this should be hot to ????
1 = The pump/02 using the silver stud at 20a say.

I'm just guessing again, but the breaker goes; copper to (+) battery post, v/r to breaker's silver stud. There you have a fuse to the charging system. If I want a remote hot harness off the posi post, I can run a piggy fuse and jump breakers as shown.

1 = Something shorts on left breaker silver stud, it heats up to 20a and breaks the circuit.
2 = Is still hot because left stud broke at this breaker. Shows left side of breaker has short, no prob at right breaker.
3 = Bridge fails at right breaker...
4 = ... pump/02 fail too.

How close am I?
I think I get where you're going.
Cw
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
the bridge as battery sou
Its not clear from your pic where the wires are going.

Here is how it should be.

The 40 amp should be between the VR and battery
The 25 amp should be between the EFI pump and battery. (It uses the bridge as battery source.)

The Breaker values are stamped on the side of them (25A or 40A)

The terminals are also labeled aux(sliver) and BAT(gold). (Although I'm not convinced it really matters)
The intent would be, the device being protected should be attached to Aux.

So for the VR it would be "Bat", and the battery wolf be Aux, which seems backwards.

For the Pump, it would be Aux, and Battery is Bat
Nailed it...CB's are not a two way street. AUX is the protected circuit lots of people wire them incorrectly because as you state 'seems backwards' but in this application protecting the VR is NOT the intended function as the VR has it's own internal protection.
 
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