Drive Pully Corrosion

82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
I'm planning to have a local detail shop apply a ceramic Coating to my 06 K9. They apply the Coating to everything, with a few exceptions so I'm in the process of polishing or replacing all the chrome. So far I've ordered a new Ignition coil cover, Headlight, new Spike Air intake, new oil Lines, new Front fender braces..etc. I've got my name on the list to get an exhaust system from FSW...(love his work). Basically I'm trying to do a complete cosmetic face lift to the bike. (Plan to sell all replaced parts, air intake, Vance & Hines Exhaust, Ignition coil cover, mirrors, Headlight)

I'm working on the transmission Pully Cover at the moment. The drive pully has rust on it and even though I've cleaned it several times the rust returns and leaves a rust Coating on the drive belt. My question is whether there is some type of recommended treatment for this or should I just get a new drive pully? Also, the chrome pully cover is scratched. Since these items are part of the transmission are they sold by BAKER? And last, the chrome transmission cover is also scratched
, it looks like a simple replacement. Anyone replaced one before? Thanks
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Rub and condensation... perfect rust belt (pun intended). Say it's coated. Only a matter of time for it to rub away and resurface the condensation condition. Coating is for show-no go.
 

82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
If I buy a new one is there anything I can do to prevent it from happening again? I was thinking about painting it with a coat of galvanized paint, then recoat periodically. Is this a waste of time?
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
If I buy a new one is there anything I can do to prevent it from happening again? I was thinking about painting it with a coat of galvanized paint, then recoat periodically. Is this a waste of time?
Look into a super pulley (supermax as per HMAN's post below) -- teflon teeth that live forever. Not cheap but you'll likely never ever have to replace it.
 
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82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
I really appreciate the information. Once again, you guys step up every time I've reached out for help or advice. The ceramic Coating I'm having applied will be essentially permanent so I want the bike in the best condition possible. This new Pully is one more atep in reaching my goal. Thank you...all of you, for your help with my K9.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
That is the transmission drive pully...correct? Does BAKER sell this?
No, it's the pulley on the wheel.
I don't know of an improved transmission pulley. I'd talk to the guy at Supermax and get his opinion of what would be the best option for the transmission pulley.
Typically the rear pulley is aluminum and the transmission pulley is steel.
Ask Knothead what I have managed to do to the rear pulley -- he couldn't believe I was still running and not slicing the belt instantly. But I've never had an issue with the transmission pulley other than cosmetics.
If you have rust on it to remove look into evaporust https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-O...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584070147491953&psc=1
Or if completely rusted maybe use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001U1GW8...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aref=LZwZsehkSr

Different tools, eveporust removes rust, rust kutter converts rust to another iron compound but there needs to be rust there for it to work.
 

82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
Appreciate it. I've cleaned it several times and used a rust removal product. That works for a little while but the rust always returns. I think I'm just going to put a new one on and hopefully I can get a few years of no rust.
 

Snuffy

Active Member
Supporting Member
Appreciate it. I've cleaned it several times and used a rust removal product. That works for a little while but the rust always returns. I think I'm just going to put a new one on and hopefully I can get a few years of no rust.
Not sure about the tolerance needed but consider plating or powder coating? Change it from the raw steel to alleviate the rust issue.
 

82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
I think I'm going to try a galvanized Coating. It will probably wear off the teeth quickly but I'm going to try it anyway.
 

Snuffy

Active Member
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I think I'm going to try a galvanized Coating. It will probably wear off the teeth quickly but I'm going to try it anyway.
I was thinking a harder plating that wouldn’t wear off as easily. I’m sure there are other people on here much smarter than me who could advise you on what that would be. Or talk to someone at a company who does plating. I was thinking nickel or something that wouldn’t rust and would hold up well. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 

Snuffy

Active Member
Supporting Member
Perhaps a Cerakote ceramic coating would last a while?
I would think that would be too thick also if the plating wouldn’t work. I think John has a good idea there. Just not sure how long it would last. There is also a rust preventive that would bind with the metal without adding anything to the size. More research is required.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Too thick a coating will not let the belt seat properly and will wear faster. A gunsmith's gun bluing would be a much better as it is a thinner coat. Not the bottle brush on use that for touchup. Find a gunsmith with a bluing tank.
Maybe try CeraKote which is generally tougher than blueing on weapons.
You can get some you can apply at home (rattle can)
It's a very thin coating so tolerances won't be an issue.
 

82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
I just looked that up. I think you're right...it's a ceramic Coating...very thin but tough. That's what I'm going to go with. Really appreciate all the input from you guys. This Forum has never failed to provide me with a solution. Thanks.
 
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