Clutch

Michael rogers

Michael rogers

Member
Lately when I take the bike out for a ride I've been getting a loud squeak sound but I noticed when I engage the clutch the squeak stops and the starts again when I release the clutch its driving me nuts can't figure it out

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
PROFLYER

PROFLYER

SWOLE
Lots going on in there. The first question that any of us will ask is if you've been in there to check your clutch hub nut. They are famous for working loose and causing all sorts of issues--part of that will put pressure on the bearings and that can make noise like that.
 
Michael rogers

Michael rogers

Member
Haven't really checked anything yet didn't really know what to look at but I'll definitely check that out thanks for the info

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
Lorenzo

Lorenzo

Active Member
If it does turn out to be a loose clutch hub nut, it is recommended to get another nut. If that’s not something u can do at the moment then clean both threads really good. Put high strength red loctite on. Make sure you torque to 150ft pounds. Some of the older manuals say 80ft pounds but it is WRONG and they were corrected in later manuals. Harley Davidson trans are 80ft pounds, Baker trans are 150ft pounds. I’m just putting it out there. I work on a lot of Big Dogs and see people bring their Dogs in after being worked on by HD techs.
 
PROFLYER

PROFLYER

SWOLE
Here's the clutch nut: http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_173_242_243&products_id=1644
And the washer: http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_173_242_243&products_id=1645

Curtis is quick with shipping. I'd also get a new primary o-ring kit so you won't have leak issues: http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_173_242_244&products_id=1126

O-ring for inspection cover: http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_173_242_244&products_id=1128

Not a bad idea to get a new drain plug too as they're often stripped (NOT AN ALLEN HEAD FACTORY, TORX, new one looks allen):http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_173_242_244&products_id=1129


All of that together is like $50--certainly worth it. Tear it down, replace the nut/washer with RED loctite (as Lorenzo said) and torque to 150ftlbs, which is a lot, but needed. Let it cure overnight before you fill/ride. Getting that square o-ring on the primary cover and inspection cover is a bear, but it'll go in the groove eventually and sit flat. Take your time and you'll be good to go. Instructions on how to change all that are on the forum.
 
Blackie

Blackie

08’ RIDGEBACK
Troop Supporter
Supporting Member
Th3InfamousI said:
I've had the same noise, I agree with everyone check the clutch hub nut probably loosened up best to just replace it when your in there and RED @ 150 ft/lbs. Remember its Left Hand Threaded!
Click to expand...
Same happens to my 08' Ridge. Nut. Replaced and tightened to specs . Good luck.
 
E

Ernie12

Active Member
Does it squeak all of the time or just when you pull the clutch in and out like when you are shifting? My older Dog did that and it was just the belt. I adjusted the belt and it went away. From what I understand the older dogs did not have Teflon coated pulleys which caused the belts to squeak. I dont know what year they changed.
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
1. Clutch release, no throttle, can't be the belt. No load on the belt to squeak, right? Sounds like an old bike finally worn out the lube at the pushrod ends = Grease/pack the recesses that hold the pushrod in place.

2. Belt tooth ride, says you let the clutch out, load the belt. However:
a. No complaint mentioned about it going away when you roll off of throttle. Can't be a belt unless you now mention it goes away on lift.
b. You would not have the proper throw at the lever if the center nut was loose. Unless I've got this wrong, wouldn't the whole basket assembly move out, sort of rattle back and forth upon throttle load and lift? OP makes no mention of its shifting quality going south, just a squeak.
 
Michael rogers

Michael rogers

Member
Ernie12 said:
Does it squeak all of the time or just when you pull the clutch in and out like when you are shifting? My older Dog did that and it was just the belt. I adjusted the belt and it went away. From what I understand the older dogs did not have Teflon coated pulleys which caused the belts to squeak. I dont know what year they changed.
Click to expand...
It does squeak all the time but when I engage the clutch it goes away

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
Michael rogers

Michael rogers

Member
Sven said:
1. Clutch release, no throttle, can't be the belt. No load on the belt to squeak, right? Sounds like an old bike finally worn out the lube at the pushrod ends = Grease/pack the recesses that hold the pushrod in place.

2. Belt tooth ride, says you let the clutch out, load the belt. However:
a. No complaint mentioned about it going away when you roll off of throttle. Can't be a belt unless you now mention it goes away on lift.
b. You would not have the proper throw at the lever if the center nut was loose. Unless I've got this wrong, wouldn't the whole basket assembly move out, sort of rattle back and forth upon throttle load and lift? OP makes no mention of its shifting quality going south, just a squeak.
Click to expand...
It's a 08 mastiff the only time it stops squeaking is when I engage the clutch then it starts squeaking when I release it

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Rod spins with the clutch basket. Say when you hear the squeak, you ever so lightly pull the clutch in. But what you are doing is loading the rod so it stops spinning. If it goes away without taking the slack out of the cable, my guess is back to a dry ramp hole, or where the rod is centered in the ramp assembly.

So say I meguyveer over to the auto/hobby store, find a plastic tube that can slide down the same channel as the pushrod, have a wooden dowel that can fit inside the plastic tube; fill the end of the tube with grease; shove the greased end down the channel; slide the dowel down the dry end of the tube and push the grease into the clutch cable ramp assembly where the rod end is located.

Rather than pull the cable assembly, find a gasket, change the gear oil, etc., this is the loophole greasing what I think might be a dry rod spinning in the housing.
 
Michael rogers

Michael rogers

Member
Sven said:
Rod spins with the clutch basket. Say when you hear the squeak, you ever so lightly pull the clutch in. But what you are doing is loading the rod so it stops spinning. If it goes away without taking the slack out of the cable, my guess is back to a dry ramp hole, or where the rod is centered in the ramp assembly.

So say I meguyveer over to the auto/hobby store, find a plastic tube that can slide down the same channel as the pushrod, have a wooden dowel that can fit inside the plastic tube; fill the end of the tube with grease; shove the greased end down the channel; slide the dowel down the dry end of the tube and push the grease into the clutch cable ramp assembly where the rod end is located.

Rather than pull the cable assembly, find a gasket, change the gear oil, etc., this is the loophole greasing what I think might be a dry rod spinning in the housing.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the info I'll definitely check it out

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
PROFLYER

PROFLYER

SWOLE
Sven said:
Rod spins with the clutch basket. Say when you hear the squeak, you ever so lightly pull the clutch in. But what you are doing is loading the rod so it stops spinning. If it goes away without taking the slack out of the cable, my guess is back to a dry ramp hole, or where the rod is centered in the ramp assembly.

So say I meguyveer over to the auto/hobby store, find a plastic tube that can slide down the same channel as the pushrod, have a wooden dowel that can fit inside the plastic tube; fill the end of the tube with grease; shove the greased end down the channel; slide the dowel down the dry end of the tube and push the grease into the clutch cable ramp assembly where the rod end is located.

Rather than pull the cable assembly, find a gasket, change the gear oil, etc., this is the loophole greasing what I think might be a dry rod spinning in the housing.
Click to expand...
The rod does NOT spin with the clutch basket!!!!!! The throw-out bearing spins around the tip of the rod, but the rod is static. Only reason for grease on the rod is so it doesn't bind up in the sleeve that runs through the tranny/main shaft.
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Unless I don't understand a loose nut, would the basket move out when you pull the lever to the grip? So, would not the lever engage more down at the grip to take up the loose basket walking out?

Couldn't I remove the primary chain adk/fill cover, move the bike to the right so the basket moves back on the shaft, yes? Then pull the lever and watch the basket move out for a loose nut? If it was a dry/belt kind of exposed basket, couldn't I kick the basket and see if I hear a clunkisshitheory goes something like that?

I'll spin this at the OP to simply pull the lever and where does it stop noise wise? At the grip? Then I agree a loose nut.

PROFLYER said:
The rod does NOT spin with the clutch basket!!!!!!
Click to expand...
At the 2:20 mark... your generic clutch pushrod. Alex, I'll take 'spins some' for a buck two fifty.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top