clutch slipping?

Energy One

Racer

Member
OK, need some advice. I have an 08 K-9 only 3500 miles. I have been using Redline primary fluid and it felt like clutch was starting to slip in higher gears. I had tried to adjust with no luck. Anyway I decided to go ahead an install new steel and friction plates. Re-adjusted and since I could not find any Redline primary fluid at local dealers went with 20-50 Mobil 1. Just took it for a ride and is slipping worse than ever. Don' t really think it is an adjustment because if I adjust cable any more it creeps. Suggestions?
 

jimizee028

TRUE COLORS COLLISION
Did you replace with stock plates??? I have been told no synthetic in primary. I switched to Bandit clutch and have no slippage whatsoever anymore,whereupon I had slipping issues from the beginning,no matter what fluid or adjustment I made.
Also Andrew,says he has springs that will solve stock clutch slipping issue.....
 

Splitlog

Well-Known Member
Dont use oil at all.....Use ATF with about 10 oz of Lucas Trans Treatment....
have used it since mine started slipping and i cant make it slipp anymore.
 

jaggerz

Active Member
B And M trickshift like erldawg says, works well. I also have read synthetics will not work well in the primary.
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
Use regular primary oil, Belray or Spectro works well...NO synthetics...also adjust this way rather than the way you would normally do it per service manual..it works very well, I use this method on all Big dogs....And yes, I can get you a better clutch spring that will give you at least 20% increase in spring pressure...Wish I had a chance to talk with you before now, I would have told you to buy a 12 pack rather than the 9... the 12 is less apt to slip...Adjust your clutch in these steps...

>First, loosen pushrod jam nut.
>Then loosen your clutch cable all the way.
>Now go back down to pushrod and turn clockwise till it just bottoms out with light drag (leave pushrod in this position for now)
>Go back up to your clutch cable and tighten the adjuster all the way up till you have 0 (zero) play at lever while holding back on cable near housing.
>Now go back down to the pushrod and turn counterclockwise 1/4 turn and lock jam nut down.
>Go back up to clutch lever and make sure you have 1/16"-1/8" of free play while holding back on the cable near housing.
> If you have close to 1/8", lock the cable down, and you are done with your adjustment.
 

Racer

Member
Andrew, I adjusted using your method. However, If I leave play in the lever the bike creeps. After going back and forth between lever and pushrod adjustment I think I am close. Rode it does not slip, using ATF type F for now, but next to impossible to find neutral while running. Don't have much play if I watch the pushrod while pulling clutch lever. Should I just go out on cable adjustment slightly to help finding neutral or do you think it will start to slip again? Thanks for help.
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
Andrew, I adjusted using your method. However, If I leave play in the lever the bike creeps. After going back and forth between lever and pushrod adjustment I think I am close. Rode it does not slip, using ATF type F for now, but next to impossible to find neutral while running. Don't have much play if I watch the pushrod while pulling clutch lever. Should I just go out on cable adjustment slightly to help finding neutral or do you think it will start to slip again? Thanks for help.
Something just doesn't sound right. You should not have any creeping with clutch adjusted the way I said to. You need to have free play, otherwise it will slip when clutch gets hot. When you took clutch apart, did you check to make sure other parts were ok?...
Pressure plate? (should be smooth all the way across surface that faces in towards friction disk)
Throwout bearing? (should feel smooth when you spin it)
Spring dome height? (should be at least .050"...if not, you will have to shim it)
Clutch pushrod? (end of pushrod should not have any wear marks from throwout bearing)
Clutch hub nut? (make sure it's tight)
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Do not rev piss out of it. Do not add more spring tension. If this is a wave plate, this has to be at 0.00" or the more concave, the more drag the arch is touching. Eventually the oil will breakdown and slipping will stop.

Syn is good for awhile. It won't hurt the fibers, and sure won't hurt the steels you stop the slipping.
 

Splitlog

Well-Known Member
If you had clutch pack OUT. You may have tightened the 4 bolts holding it together to tight. That's what happened to 330-DAN.
 
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