allenshawn1
Member
I have adjusted the clutch by following threads. Unfortunatly my push rod is recessed into the nut when i go ckockwise and 1/4 back. Is that right? Thanks in adance.
Clutch push rod recessed
- Thread starter allenshawn1
- Start date
Brew
Troop Supporter
It doesn't sound right. When I had a wet clutch installed on my scoot there was a couple threads showing outside of the lock nut. You clutch hub nut might have backed off and is allowing your clutch pack to move out as you try adjusting your push rod or your clutch pack could be worn down, there are many possibilities. You might consider pulling your primary cover and investigate what's going on in there. Sorry if i missed another post, but what was happening to make you want to adjust your clutch?
standuprick
Active Member
Try to Adjust your cable length. Then re adjust the rod.
allenshawn1
Member
It saysbto adjust rid first. Primary cover is off. I dont see a nut on primary clutch side. Was slipping in 4th then wouldnt shift in out easy.
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/16540-how-install-your-karata-open-belt-primary-obs.html
go to this thread by gasman and look through the photos. you will see the drive including the clutch hub nut that is behind a plate (throwout bearing). follow gasman's instructions.
photos # 12, 13, 14 are the ones to look at but the rest of them are great.
go to this thread by gasman and look through the photos. you will see the drive including the clutch hub nut that is behind a plate (throwout bearing). follow gasman's instructions.
photos # 12, 13, 14 are the ones to look at but the rest of them are great.
Last edited:
allenshawn1
Member
Ok, tightend hub nut. Tightened push rod hand tight and backed off 1/4. When i pull clutch handle, can not roll in gear. Also, will it be a solid bottom on pushrod?
Moespeeds
Well-Known Member
Start over. Back the pushrod all the way out so you're sure it ain't touching the clutch. Now turn it in, two fingers, until you feel resistance. It's not a solid stop, just use two fingers until you feel it touch. Now back it off a half turn and lock it down. You should have your clutch cable at max slack while doing this. Now adjust the cable and try it. If it walks in gear with the clutch in, turn the rod clockwise 1/8 turn at a time until it stops walking. If it slips in high gears, back it off 1/8 turn at a time until it stops slipping.
allenshawn1, moe is somebody on here you can always trust to give you good info, listen to him.
allenshawn1
Member
Thanks for all the help guys. I did right the last time. Just wondering why its kind of egaged with the clutch pulled in. Will let you guys know tomorrow when i close it up and put oil in.
Brew
Troop Supporter
I noticed that you mentioned you tightened the hub nut. Did you by chance clean the threads on the main shaft and nut? I would suggest you do that and then apply a butt load of Red loc-tite or you'll be back in there in the near future tightening that nut again. Just saying... :2thumbs:
yes, there is a factory recommended procedure about tightening the clutch hub nut . it's on here somewhere.
Moespeeds
Well-Known Member
Keep in mind that it's normal for the rear wheel to "walk" in gear with the clutch pulled if the rear wheel is jacked up off the ground. If it tries to "creep" while you are sitting at a red light you need to adjust it.
Lots of red loctite and 100 ft/lbs for the hub nut. I safety wire them when i can, but on the rsd bd's you can't. You can also use red loctite on the hub splines but you'll need a puller to get the hub off in the future. I loctite the splines on my personal bikes but never anyone else's.
Lots of red loctite and 100 ft/lbs for the hub nut. I safety wire them when i can, but on the rsd bd's you can't. You can also use red loctite on the hub splines but you'll need a puller to get the hub off in the future. I loctite the splines on my personal bikes but never anyone else's.
allenshawn1
Member
Giid call guys. I will take it back apart, clean and locktite. Ive always wondered that about the walking or you cant push it when in gear and clutch pulled. My furst one did that too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodbutcher View Post
recommended procedure:
1) remove clutch hub nut and clean both the nut and the threads fully of all (if any) loctite
2) torque assembly to 150 lbft to draw everything together
3) remove nut and apply red loctite
4) re-torque assembly to 120-130 lbft.
should be good to adjust and ride with no problems.
If you read SB-1107 you should also remove the o-ring behind the clutch basket. Dont forget this!
(this last line was added by biker's dream of Atlanta.)
for more reading on the subject, go to search and type in "tightening clutch hub nut"
Originally Posted by woodbutcher View Post
recommended procedure:
1) remove clutch hub nut and clean both the nut and the threads fully of all (if any) loctite
2) torque assembly to 150 lbft to draw everything together
3) remove nut and apply red loctite
4) re-torque assembly to 120-130 lbft.
should be good to adjust and ride with no problems.
If you read SB-1107 you should also remove the o-ring behind the clutch basket. Dont forget this!
(this last line was added by biker's dream of Atlanta.)
for more reading on the subject, go to search and type in "tightening clutch hub nut"
allenshawn1
Member
Thanks to all. I did exactly what you said, moe, until i got it perfect. No slipping in fourth, hard shifting, and easy into neutral.
Now have to clean the hell out of it and put it on the market. Will post a link on here when im done..
Thanks again!
allenshawn1
Member
allenshawn1
Member
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