clutch nut problems AGAIN!!!!

outdoorsman26

Well-Known Member
ok this is the 3rd time my clutch nut has come loose:confused: I hav soaked it in red loctite, torqued it to 50 ft/lbs what the hell:bang: :bang: :bang:. just wondering has someone done anything different?? maybe a single spot weld on the nut/shaft so it doesnt back off?? (now I dont mean fully weld the thing on just a small and I mean small tack):angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry:
 

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
The manual calls for 80 ft/lbs with red loctite on the clutch nut so if you're only torquing it to 50 ft/lbs. that may be your problem...

Dennis
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
recommended by factory:
pull everything together with 120 lbft. without locktite
back nut off, make sure the threads are clean
apply red locktite
torque to 110-120 lbft.

no way can stay together @ 50 lbft. !!!!!!!!
 
Clutch Nut = LH thread, Torque: 80 ft. lbs., LOCTITE: # 2760 (use "RED")

As V stated, thoroughly clean threads with brake clean or something similar.

Loctite threads (too much is as much a problem as not enough!)

Torque to 80 ft. lbs.

Do check for Bulletins!

Hope this helps :2thumbs:
 

K9husker

Member
I have been down this road and trust me i have the answer. The nut and washer must be the new black coated, heat treated nut and washer. These came stock on 2007 units and newer. Install the clutch assembly, torque the nut without loctite to 150 lbs. This seats the clutch assembly. Then take the nut off, add loctite and re-torque to 150lbs. I talked to Big Dog corporate, and Baker and the nut and shaft will take up to 200 lbs of torque. I did this to my 06 K9 after i trashed a main shaft, and clutch assembly and no issues after 5,000 miles.
 

outdoorsman26

Well-Known Member
well I split the difference and set it to 115ft/lbs, and yes they are the black nut and washer (you must be able to read my mind sweet)!! I will let the loctite set up and then take it out for a spin
 

lee

Well-Known Member
my torque wrench doesn't click for the reverse thread - pain the ass
 
my torque wrench doesn't click for the reverse thread - pain the ass
That sounds like a "Personal Problem" too me!...Especially the azz part! :eek: :roll:

Get a different manufacturer! :lol:

I was referring to the wrench, but the bike will do also! :roll:

I wish my manual received these updated bulletins automatically!

Hey I've got an Idea! Either BDM can "give out" supplemental manuals and call them "Another Whack At It"! or they can just "Do It "RIGHT" The First Time"!

How about them apples! What do you think? :2thumbs:
 
Last edited:

K9husker

Member
I tried mine at 120lbs and it still came loose. Occording to Baker, the critical point is to seat the clutch first at 150 lbs, then loctite and retorque. On the 2006's they did not even come with a washer!
 

coach

Active Member
Are we talking about the "pushrod adjusting screw jam nut" ? .... because when I installed the Power Clutch, I needed an adjustment....and it is difficult to get much leverage. I also did not see or feel locktite when I loosened it.
 

V

Guru
Are we talking about the "pushrod adjusting screw jam nut" ? .... because when I installed the Power Clutch, I needed an adjustment....and it is difficult to get much leverage. I also did not see or feel locktite when I loosened it.
No sir this is the left hand threaded nut that is in the primary side of the bike holding the clutch assembly in place:cheers:
 
Top