clutch adjustment

Energy One

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
I finally got my new clutch cable installed. It all went pretty well. Lever does not have the slack it had a couple weeks ago.

It feels like it needs to disengage more. Neutral is impossible, and overall shifting is very clunky. For 3 consecutive adjustments this afternoon, I have tightened the rod about 1/2 a turn, while loosening the cable accordingly to its not too tight. All of those made effectively no difference.

There is still almost no slack in the lever, but clutch feel is about the same after each adjustment. The rod was pretty tight, so subsequent tightenings are still working, but there has been noticeable resistance for the last 2 or 3 adjustments (total of 1 to 1 1/2 turns of the pushrod).

?!?!?
Be CAREFUL with getting the rod too tight then adjusting the clutch cable -- you can destroy the throwout bearing if your not careful -- ask me how I know!
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I finally got my new clutch cable installed. It all went pretty well. Lever does not have the slack it had a couple weeks ago.

It feels like it needs to disengage more. Neutral is impossible, and overall shifting is very clunky. For 3 consecutive adjustments this afternoon, I have tightened the rod about 1/2 a turn, while loosening the cable accordingly to its not too tight. All of those made effectively no difference.

There is still almost no slack in the lever, but clutch feel is about the same after each adjustment. The rod was pretty tight, so subsequent tightenings are still working, but there has been noticeable resistance for the last 2 or 3 adjustments (total of 1 to 1 1/2 turns of the pushrod).

?!?!?
Are you collapsing the adjustment on the cable before making any pushrod adjustment?

Need to collapse the cable fist then adjust pushrod everytime. Otherwise you run the risk of adjusting the push rod and the ball and ramp not fully relaxed at it's lowest point and so it will never have it's full throw.

And it's a 1/4-1/8 turn counter clockwise from when pushrod touches the bearing.

Confused on the 1 to 1.5 turns? Which way?





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Last edited:

Sven

Well-Known Member
Page 2? There are so many combos here, it only works one way. But getting there is half the battle?

1. Lightly hold clutch lever, spin the expander in so less threads are shown, feel the lever go to the grip as you spin.
2. Go to the adjust screw, hold the lever again, spin the screw in, and when the lever stops, so is the ramp being homed. However;
3. If the lever stops at the perch on the screw in, shorten the expander even more so you can continue to turn the screw in.
4. In other words, that's all she wrote, the lever is in between the grip and perch. So out a 1/4 turn, lock it, extend the expander at the perch gap to 1/16 of taught play on a light pull, no lever rattle, i.e., sloppy cable gap.

Signed,
NOLTT (nobody's over loose too tight)
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Here is how I adjust mine, works every time shifts like a smooth Honda lol. Loosen cable adjustment all the way, run the clutch adjustment pushrod all the way in until it stops with light drag and keep it there. Then tighten cable adjustment up until you have no play at the lever and tighten up the cable adjustment, then go back down to the pushrod and back it out 1/4 turn. That should do it.
Question for Billy the Kid. After making the 1/4 turn adj on the push rod do you then return to the cable adj for the 1/16 inch recommendation ? Thanks
 

bdm7250

Guru
Supporting Member
Best way to resolve clutch adjustments is go with an open primary, best upgrade to our bikes.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
While you're waiting for Billy or did you miss this?
... tighten cable adjustment up until you have no play at the lever and tighten up the cable adjustment, then go back down to the pushrod and back it out 1/4 turn. That should do it.
As if holding an egg between your hand and the end of the lever, that's how much push... 'until you have no play at the lever..'
It's the softest of pull to feel that gap go to zero. The 1/4 out is huge. It might be sloppy so your call how much hair trigger you want. This side of zero gap is as far a throw as it will go = Ideal.
 

Brent Herridge

Active Member
Just test rode yesterday's adjustment and I think it's as good as it'll get. I can still find neutral while moving, which is what I had before. It seemed to be missing the sleeve that the mirror fits through. Hopefully that's what caused excessive movement and wore out the old cable. Lever play is down to a mere 1/4" up and down.

Is that in the normal range ?
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I can still find neutral while moving, which is what I had before. 1/4" up and down.

Is that in the normal range ?
All it takes is one warp plate struggling to find N.
No on the 1/4 lever slop range. There is so much ramp vs. slop. By using a zero lever gap, it lengthens the throw; pushing out farther is the pressure plate so the warp won't 'tag and drag'.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
All it takes is one warp plate struggling to find N.
No on the 1/4 lever slop range. There is so much ramp vs. slop. By using a zero lever gap, it lengthens the throw; pushing out farther is the pressure plate so the warp won't 'tag and drag'.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
hey now, don't be trying to play that NOLTT card anymore. there's way more people on here that listen to you now than back when you first came on. just took a little while to figure out what the fuck you were saying.
 
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