rowdy13
Active Member
This is a list of questions and suggestions I got off of this website. Its questions and suggestions to take with you to the dealer if you are having problems. Instead of having to go through the whole website, I tried to list the most common problems (decel popping, sneezing, coughing, engine dieing) with your suggestions. In my case, I have no idea what the mechanic is doing to correct my bike problems, or what to ask him if so and so has been checked. This way when you take your bike in for problems, you can ask them if they checked (things on this list). actually this is more for me cause I have no idea about bikes. I will add and edit more later. I'm tired. If anyone wants to , please cut and paste, or delete or add or change anything you want. you guys may think this is stupid, but I will feel better taking your suggestions with me. by the way, the misspellings are all yours!!
1, Sure sounds like a venting problem. My 05 mastiff used to do it and drive me nuts. Harley put a crossover tube on the top as well so the tank could equalize pressure. Big dog has one vented cap and I think it's a bullshit design.
2 Check your voltage while running, could be the Votage regulator
3 (DECEL POPPING AND COUGHING) I know I am running rich and that’s ok with me, I think my problem is the rich and the cold weather?? Either way I am getting tired of it and am thinking of re-jetting…
4 Check your grounds and battery cable. If the battery cable is loose strange things can happen. I was riding my 07 one night and it just died and I couldnt start it after a few minutes I got it started and drove it home fine but when I pulled the seat the cable was loose. My dealer just did my 2500 miles servicce and he told me the cable was loose again even thought I check it regularly now.
5 I just know loose cables and bad grounds are culprits lots of the time. ALong with our not so water proof switches, circuit breakers etc etc
6 Even if your tender shows that your battery is good to go your battery can still be shot.
It happened to me when I first got my bike. The battery took the charge but didn't hold it when the bike was turned off. Found that I had a dead cell in the battery.
7 (STARTER PROBLEMS SUGGESTION) If your battery cables are tight(tighten with 10mm wrench) and your showing 12 volts at the battery it sounds like the EHC to me...What does that show when you turn it on and hit the button. I haven't seen alot of PCB's go bad for your year(fancy word for handlebar switches) so I doubt it's that. What makes me think EHC is that you said your horn didn't work....thats a typical thing that happens when your EHC goes bad...wonder if they checked that out at your dealership...they can hook it up and test it...Something else to look at is a battery strap..make sure your battery is securely fastened in it's battery box with a rubber strap...if they bounce around at all it welds the plates together in the battery and fries them..
A way to think about the EHC is that the EHC controls the chassis...meaning, lights, horn, starting,etc....the ignition module controls the engine..
EHC-Chassis
Module-Engine
8 (STARTER PROBLEMS) It could be one of several different issues. First, disconnect the green starter solenoid wire and inspect the terminal. It could be broken inside the plastic shroud and only making contact some of the time. If that looks good then turn the key to the on position and use a DMM and check for voltage on the green wire. It should be around 8vdc with the key on. Hit the run button, wait 2 seconds then hit the start button. You should see 12vdc on the wire at that point and time. If you do it could be a starter solenoid. If you dont then it could be a wire issue between the EHC and the starter. Since you are certain the compression reliefs are clicking then it isnt a PCB issue since the EHC is "seeing" the start input. I would check the terminal and the voltage on the green wire and go from there.
9. (RESOLUTION TO STARTER PROBLEMS-GET A NEW ONE)
Thanks for all the help guys. My local dealer did all of the troubleshooting you suggested. Apparently, it's a starter problem. I guess Big Dog has a new updated starter that should fix it. So, it's ordered and should be here next week. Hopefully that will resolve the problem. Thanks again!
10. (STARTER PROBLEM SUGGESTION FROM BIG DOG) Currently when your dealer replaces a starter they replace the whole thing, not just the solenoid. When you say all it does is "click" is that the starter solenoid you hear clicking or the compression reliefs clicking? You might have a starter issue, you could have a wiring issue to the starter or possibly an EHC issue. If you have a tool bag on your bike it would be handy to have a very cheap DMM in there so when this problem happens, which is after you have been riding a few miles, you could pull the green wire on the starter solenoid and hit your start button and see if your getting the 12vdc input there. That would help narrow down which direction to look at.
11, Carb sneezing at 80-85 mph
I just got my bike back from the dealer on its 2500 mi service. I told him that if I held the throttle at 80-85 mph the carb sneezes every now and then. If I crack it at that speed she will fly but holding at a steady throttle every couple of minutes she sneezes. Dealer of course couldnt replicate the problem but sure enough I ride her home and there it is. The dealer changed my jets when they put my hooker rebel widetails on when she was new but it wasnt until after the 500 mile service that I started running the higher rpms and speeds. I have tried making adjustments while riding but I cant get it to stop. I am thinking maybe I need a slightly larger intermediate jet. I dont know the jet sizes the dealer put in so I cant give you that info. Where do you guys think I should begin? I am thinking of switching to the triple x this winter.
12 I would start with taking your carb apart and identifying what you have (jet size). Can't tell you if you are too fat or lean in either circuit without that info. Besides, it would be good for you to know this stuff for future mods
13 Same Problem .. solved
LDO, I had the same problem, holding the throttle for any period of time would cause it to sneeze - not all the time but often. The dealer tech screwed in the fuel mixture (under the white cap) and backed it out two turns. It now 95% gone and running much better - he also said to open it counter-clockwise about 1/4 of a turn and try this. You want to get it so it just barley avoids sneezing otherwise it will be too rich and start fouling the plugs. The S&S site has the carb adjustment document you can download for free - its right on. Just don't touch the accelerator adjuster (forward of mixture). Good luck!
14 Sneeze means lean.
15. My plugs look good since i put the spike straight up but turning the gas/air mixture screw either way makes the sneeze worse. If I lean it it gets a lot worse if I richen it a eighth turn or so it still does it.
16 (LONG THREAD CUT DOWN TO THIS) but anything over 2.5 turns means you need a larger intermiediate jet.
17 (FOR SNEEZING) check for an intake leak first. Or Exhaust Leak
18 (sneezin PROBLEMS) My carb did the same thing when it came back from XXX. I called and they sent me a couple different "Air Bleed" jets. It's like a main jet just different dia size. Mine had a 44 and I went up to a 48 and took care of the problem. I was told that sometimes the transition point between the intermediate and the main could get a little too rich. Easy to get to.
19 (BACKFIRING QUESTION) My Dog's Backfiring
I just got my 2005 Chopper back from the Dealer who did a mid-summer service & tune-up on it, and the bike is backfiring a LOT. They changed the spark plugs too, so I thought it might be a combination of new plugs + some bad Citco gas. My Dealer's 75 miles away, so rather than ride it back up there I would like to try and correct this myself. I'm going to fill up with Shell 93-octane + add some octane booster + tweak the air/fuel mixture screw on the Super G carb. Any other suggestions??
20 (BACKFIRING) Hoepfully the adjustment in the mixture screws, some good gas and new spark plugs will take care of it.
21 not Rule out a Plug being bad
22 Check your manifold for leaks
23 I just fixed my back firing / dieing problem and only cost me 15 dollars for a used Harley Davidson Coil.
24 (DECEL POPPING QUESTION) Popping from the exhaust??
Forgive me if I'm not in the right area, but I took my 06 K-9 in for the 2500 mile checkup. When I picked up the bike today, I started it, and it kept choking and dieing. And then the RPM lights were going crazy. I got the guys from the dealership to come out and he adjusted the idle, but it didnt sound as good as before I brought it in. Then when I rode off and decelerated, my exhaust would go "pop, pop, pop several times and continued to do that all the way home. It was cool at first, but got a little annoying after awhile. My bike was better before I brought it in. Is it because of the adjustments, and its suppose to sound like that when its running correctly?
25 (DECEL POPPING SUGGESTION) Sounds like they adjusted your fuel/air mixture. You didn't have them change jets did you? If not then just make note of where the screw is and turn it out (richen) 1/8 a turn at a time and see if that corrects the popping.
Next time you take it to the dealer tell them not to touch the carb setttings and always know where the screws are set. As in mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out, pump 2 turns out...
26 (DECEL POPPING SUGGESTION)
Decel popping... not sure where you're at Rowdy but with the change of seasons it is to be expected. I would adjust the carb and probably need to turn down the accel pump.
27 (POPPING SNEEZING COUGHING SUGGESTION) If it was me, I would find out what jets were installed (just so you know what combo works good for your motor / future mods, etc...) and I would also figure out what settings all your screws are set to. Read the S&S guide to tuning the carb, that's a big help. Print it out and keep it in your service manual (might already be in there).
28 (FOR LDO) Stump breaking an animal, is where you wear boots, put the animals back legs into your boots so they cant get away, and, well you can imagine whats next, not that I would know from personal experience. oklahoma, where men are men, and sheep are nervous!
29 (POPPING SNEEZING COUGHING) i live in oklahoma as well
and about this time of year i have to fatten up my carb too
if not it starts to cough at light throttle but is really mean
( lean is mean) at wide open throttle this time of year i have to run a 31 int.
and a 74 main jet but i'm running a forcewinder breather gets lots of air
works for me .
30 (ENGINE DIEING) PROBLEM: - While running, engine dies, Tach lights go out.\
- Engine will turn over fine immediately after but sounds like there's no spark.
- Waiting a couple minutes (the length of a smoke) and she starts right up and runs fine
31 (ENGINE DIEING SUGGESTION) cacha, sounds like a grounded wire to me. If it's happening at different conditions and speeds then I would search for a wire that is rubbing against the frame and the insulation is rubbed off and grounding the system. I've had an oil light problem that resulted on a grounded wire (orange wire under tank) and just lately flashing blinkers that was the result of a grounded wire under the seat. I would go over your wiring loom very carefully checking for any worn wires.
What is the EHC telling you? Are there any lights energized that shouldn't be on when it's idling?
I wouldn't worry about the VR. In my experience once it's dead then you have severe battery problems and that doesn't seem to be the case here.
32 (ENGINE DIEING SUGGESTION) Check your fuel filter! See if the problem occurs after you fill your tank. If it does not, there is a very good chance that it is fuel related and your filter may be clogged.
33 (ENGINE DIEING SUGGESTION) I HAVE AN 04 BULLDOG ALSO. MY CAM SENSOR WENT OUT BEFORE AS DID MY EHC. WHEN MY CAM SENSOR HEATED UP, IT WOULD START CUTTING OUT.
34 (ENGINE DIEING SUGGESTION FROM BIG DOG) Sounds like you are loosing ignition only since only your tach goes out and the engine shuts off. One thing to look at is your red LED on your ignition module right after this occurs. Pull the seat off and hit your run button. The red LED should light up for a couple of seconds and then go out till it see's a cam signal for the trigger. If you get the red LED when you press your run button then it could be internal in the ignition module. If you do not get the red LED when you press the run button it is a 12vdc output issue from the EHC.
35 (ENGINE DIEING SUGGESTION) Good eyes! She's an 04 and the Ignition module is under the seat, but the sensor plate is behind the points cover. The last time she failed, Hoat and I were coming back from Maryland. I pulled the points cover and Hoat did his "Magic Tapp" with a multi-tool...problem cleared. Now it could be that the extra heat from the pipes are affecting the sensor plate. I'm figuring it's a heat problem someplace with the electronics vice a vibration problem. When she does fail, it is nearly always within 8 miles of startup. Once she fires up again, she's pretty much fine for the rest of the run. I'll go a week without a problem, then she porks me just for fun!
36 (ENGINE DIEING SUGGESTION) Same thing happened to me. It was the cam sensor. The teck center had me take a hairdryer to it to heat it up and behold, it would take a shit. replaced it and all was good.
37 (ENGINE DIEING MUST READ FROM BIG DOG) Problem with using a hair dryer is you can heat the components past their thermal limits and it will cause the component to fail since they are built to operate that way. A quick way to see if it is a power input issue from the EHC or if it is a cam plate is make about a 12" jumper wire that has clips on both ends. When this happens on the road, pull off the seat and clip one end of the jumper wire to the ground of the battery. The other end of the jumper use a T-pin, paper clip, about anything you can use to back pin into a connector. The green wire to the ignition module is cam trigger input wire. Hit your run button, if no red light then back pin a ground on the green wire. That will light up the red LED. If it lights up, its a cam plate issue. If it doesnt light up then it's a 12vdc supply issue from the EHC.
1, Sure sounds like a venting problem. My 05 mastiff used to do it and drive me nuts. Harley put a crossover tube on the top as well so the tank could equalize pressure. Big dog has one vented cap and I think it's a bullshit design.
2 Check your voltage while running, could be the Votage regulator
3 (DECEL POPPING AND COUGHING) I know I am running rich and that’s ok with me, I think my problem is the rich and the cold weather?? Either way I am getting tired of it and am thinking of re-jetting…
4 Check your grounds and battery cable. If the battery cable is loose strange things can happen. I was riding my 07 one night and it just died and I couldnt start it after a few minutes I got it started and drove it home fine but when I pulled the seat the cable was loose. My dealer just did my 2500 miles servicce and he told me the cable was loose again even thought I check it regularly now.
5 I just know loose cables and bad grounds are culprits lots of the time. ALong with our not so water proof switches, circuit breakers etc etc
6 Even if your tender shows that your battery is good to go your battery can still be shot.
It happened to me when I first got my bike. The battery took the charge but didn't hold it when the bike was turned off. Found that I had a dead cell in the battery.
7 (STARTER PROBLEMS SUGGESTION) If your battery cables are tight(tighten with 10mm wrench) and your showing 12 volts at the battery it sounds like the EHC to me...What does that show when you turn it on and hit the button. I haven't seen alot of PCB's go bad for your year(fancy word for handlebar switches) so I doubt it's that. What makes me think EHC is that you said your horn didn't work....thats a typical thing that happens when your EHC goes bad...wonder if they checked that out at your dealership...they can hook it up and test it...Something else to look at is a battery strap..make sure your battery is securely fastened in it's battery box with a rubber strap...if they bounce around at all it welds the plates together in the battery and fries them..
A way to think about the EHC is that the EHC controls the chassis...meaning, lights, horn, starting,etc....the ignition module controls the engine..
EHC-Chassis
Module-Engine
8 (STARTER PROBLEMS) It could be one of several different issues. First, disconnect the green starter solenoid wire and inspect the terminal. It could be broken inside the plastic shroud and only making contact some of the time. If that looks good then turn the key to the on position and use a DMM and check for voltage on the green wire. It should be around 8vdc with the key on. Hit the run button, wait 2 seconds then hit the start button. You should see 12vdc on the wire at that point and time. If you do it could be a starter solenoid. If you dont then it could be a wire issue between the EHC and the starter. Since you are certain the compression reliefs are clicking then it isnt a PCB issue since the EHC is "seeing" the start input. I would check the terminal and the voltage on the green wire and go from there.
9. (RESOLUTION TO STARTER PROBLEMS-GET A NEW ONE)
Thanks for all the help guys. My local dealer did all of the troubleshooting you suggested. Apparently, it's a starter problem. I guess Big Dog has a new updated starter that should fix it. So, it's ordered and should be here next week. Hopefully that will resolve the problem. Thanks again!
10. (STARTER PROBLEM SUGGESTION FROM BIG DOG) Currently when your dealer replaces a starter they replace the whole thing, not just the solenoid. When you say all it does is "click" is that the starter solenoid you hear clicking or the compression reliefs clicking? You might have a starter issue, you could have a wiring issue to the starter or possibly an EHC issue. If you have a tool bag on your bike it would be handy to have a very cheap DMM in there so when this problem happens, which is after you have been riding a few miles, you could pull the green wire on the starter solenoid and hit your start button and see if your getting the 12vdc input there. That would help narrow down which direction to look at.
11, Carb sneezing at 80-85 mph
I just got my bike back from the dealer on its 2500 mi service. I told him that if I held the throttle at 80-85 mph the carb sneezes every now and then. If I crack it at that speed she will fly but holding at a steady throttle every couple of minutes she sneezes. Dealer of course couldnt replicate the problem but sure enough I ride her home and there it is. The dealer changed my jets when they put my hooker rebel widetails on when she was new but it wasnt until after the 500 mile service that I started running the higher rpms and speeds. I have tried making adjustments while riding but I cant get it to stop. I am thinking maybe I need a slightly larger intermediate jet. I dont know the jet sizes the dealer put in so I cant give you that info. Where do you guys think I should begin? I am thinking of switching to the triple x this winter.
12 I would start with taking your carb apart and identifying what you have (jet size). Can't tell you if you are too fat or lean in either circuit without that info. Besides, it would be good for you to know this stuff for future mods
13 Same Problem .. solved
LDO, I had the same problem, holding the throttle for any period of time would cause it to sneeze - not all the time but often. The dealer tech screwed in the fuel mixture (under the white cap) and backed it out two turns. It now 95% gone and running much better - he also said to open it counter-clockwise about 1/4 of a turn and try this. You want to get it so it just barley avoids sneezing otherwise it will be too rich and start fouling the plugs. The S&S site has the carb adjustment document you can download for free - its right on. Just don't touch the accelerator adjuster (forward of mixture). Good luck!
14 Sneeze means lean.
15. My plugs look good since i put the spike straight up but turning the gas/air mixture screw either way makes the sneeze worse. If I lean it it gets a lot worse if I richen it a eighth turn or so it still does it.
16 (LONG THREAD CUT DOWN TO THIS) but anything over 2.5 turns means you need a larger intermiediate jet.
17 (FOR SNEEZING) check for an intake leak first. Or Exhaust Leak
18 (sneezin PROBLEMS) My carb did the same thing when it came back from XXX. I called and they sent me a couple different "Air Bleed" jets. It's like a main jet just different dia size. Mine had a 44 and I went up to a 48 and took care of the problem. I was told that sometimes the transition point between the intermediate and the main could get a little too rich. Easy to get to.
19 (BACKFIRING QUESTION) My Dog's Backfiring
I just got my 2005 Chopper back from the Dealer who did a mid-summer service & tune-up on it, and the bike is backfiring a LOT. They changed the spark plugs too, so I thought it might be a combination of new plugs + some bad Citco gas. My Dealer's 75 miles away, so rather than ride it back up there I would like to try and correct this myself. I'm going to fill up with Shell 93-octane + add some octane booster + tweak the air/fuel mixture screw on the Super G carb. Any other suggestions??
20 (BACKFIRING) Hoepfully the adjustment in the mixture screws, some good gas and new spark plugs will take care of it.
21 not Rule out a Plug being bad
22 Check your manifold for leaks
23 I just fixed my back firing / dieing problem and only cost me 15 dollars for a used Harley Davidson Coil.
24 (DECEL POPPING QUESTION) Popping from the exhaust??
Forgive me if I'm not in the right area, but I took my 06 K-9 in for the 2500 mile checkup. When I picked up the bike today, I started it, and it kept choking and dieing. And then the RPM lights were going crazy. I got the guys from the dealership to come out and he adjusted the idle, but it didnt sound as good as before I brought it in. Then when I rode off and decelerated, my exhaust would go "pop, pop, pop several times and continued to do that all the way home. It was cool at first, but got a little annoying after awhile. My bike was better before I brought it in. Is it because of the adjustments, and its suppose to sound like that when its running correctly?
25 (DECEL POPPING SUGGESTION) Sounds like they adjusted your fuel/air mixture. You didn't have them change jets did you? If not then just make note of where the screw is and turn it out (richen) 1/8 a turn at a time and see if that corrects the popping.
Next time you take it to the dealer tell them not to touch the carb setttings and always know where the screws are set. As in mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out, pump 2 turns out...
26 (DECEL POPPING SUGGESTION)
Decel popping... not sure where you're at Rowdy but with the change of seasons it is to be expected. I would adjust the carb and probably need to turn down the accel pump.
27 (POPPING SNEEZING COUGHING SUGGESTION) If it was me, I would find out what jets were installed (just so you know what combo works good for your motor / future mods, etc...) and I would also figure out what settings all your screws are set to. Read the S&S guide to tuning the carb, that's a big help. Print it out and keep it in your service manual (might already be in there).
28 (FOR LDO) Stump breaking an animal, is where you wear boots, put the animals back legs into your boots so they cant get away, and, well you can imagine whats next, not that I would know from personal experience. oklahoma, where men are men, and sheep are nervous!
29 (POPPING SNEEZING COUGHING) i live in oklahoma as well
and about this time of year i have to fatten up my carb too
if not it starts to cough at light throttle but is really mean
( lean is mean) at wide open throttle this time of year i have to run a 31 int.
and a 74 main jet but i'm running a forcewinder breather gets lots of air
works for me .
30 (ENGINE DIEING) PROBLEM: - While running, engine dies, Tach lights go out.\
- Engine will turn over fine immediately after but sounds like there's no spark.
- Waiting a couple minutes (the length of a smoke) and she starts right up and runs fine
31 (ENGINE DIEING SUGGESTION) cacha, sounds like a grounded wire to me. If it's happening at different conditions and speeds then I would search for a wire that is rubbing against the frame and the insulation is rubbed off and grounding the system. I've had an oil light problem that resulted on a grounded wire (orange wire under tank) and just lately flashing blinkers that was the result of a grounded wire under the seat. I would go over your wiring loom very carefully checking for any worn wires.
What is the EHC telling you? Are there any lights energized that shouldn't be on when it's idling?
I wouldn't worry about the VR. In my experience once it's dead then you have severe battery problems and that doesn't seem to be the case here.
32 (ENGINE DIEING SUGGESTION) Check your fuel filter! See if the problem occurs after you fill your tank. If it does not, there is a very good chance that it is fuel related and your filter may be clogged.
33 (ENGINE DIEING SUGGESTION) I HAVE AN 04 BULLDOG ALSO. MY CAM SENSOR WENT OUT BEFORE AS DID MY EHC. WHEN MY CAM SENSOR HEATED UP, IT WOULD START CUTTING OUT.
34 (ENGINE DIEING SUGGESTION FROM BIG DOG) Sounds like you are loosing ignition only since only your tach goes out and the engine shuts off. One thing to look at is your red LED on your ignition module right after this occurs. Pull the seat off and hit your run button. The red LED should light up for a couple of seconds and then go out till it see's a cam signal for the trigger. If you get the red LED when you press your run button then it could be internal in the ignition module. If you do not get the red LED when you press the run button it is a 12vdc output issue from the EHC.
35 (ENGINE DIEING SUGGESTION) Good eyes! She's an 04 and the Ignition module is under the seat, but the sensor plate is behind the points cover. The last time she failed, Hoat and I were coming back from Maryland. I pulled the points cover and Hoat did his "Magic Tapp" with a multi-tool...problem cleared. Now it could be that the extra heat from the pipes are affecting the sensor plate. I'm figuring it's a heat problem someplace with the electronics vice a vibration problem. When she does fail, it is nearly always within 8 miles of startup. Once she fires up again, she's pretty much fine for the rest of the run. I'll go a week without a problem, then she porks me just for fun!
36 (ENGINE DIEING SUGGESTION) Same thing happened to me. It was the cam sensor. The teck center had me take a hairdryer to it to heat it up and behold, it would take a shit. replaced it and all was good.
37 (ENGINE DIEING MUST READ FROM BIG DOG) Problem with using a hair dryer is you can heat the components past their thermal limits and it will cause the component to fail since they are built to operate that way. A quick way to see if it is a power input issue from the EHC or if it is a cam plate is make about a 12" jumper wire that has clips on both ends. When this happens on the road, pull off the seat and clip one end of the jumper wire to the ground of the battery. The other end of the jumper use a T-pin, paper clip, about anything you can use to back pin into a connector. The green wire to the ignition module is cam trigger input wire. Hit your run button, if no red light then back pin a ground on the green wire. That will light up the red LED. If it lights up, its a cam plate issue. If it doesnt light up then it's a 12vdc supply issue from the EHC.
