Thanks RRRUFF, After replacing the fuse the system is pumping out the normal 14+ volts DC. If the VR is failing like you indicated does it cool down and work fine and then heat up agian causing the fuse to fuuse? Is the VR a BD or can it be purchased elsewhere? The kick is I live in Iowa and our only dealer went belly-up so I no one. I absolutely love my K-9 but am concerned about maintaining it.
What I understand is the VR will heat up and cause the buss bar to warp and this will cause the system to over charge. The fuse was the BD fix for this. I was told by the dealer that installed my fuse that if the VR failed is would be replaced under warranty. So far no problems with mine. The manual says to check the charging voltage with bike running, should be 13 or 14 volts. Then check the continuity of the stator and see if anything is going to ground. Then isolate the alternator by unplugging the VR and checking the AC voltage, should be around 20 volts engine idling and will increase with rpms. I think Compufire has a replacement not sure though, someone here has change over. Your VR is a "series" type 40 amp if you decide to go aftermarket.
This is what my manual says;
To check the rotor, leave the VR unplugged from the stator and plug the voltmeter leads into the two stator plug terminals. Set the meter to AC volt setting. Once the meter is set start the engine and note the AC' voltage on the meter. It will vary a little because the engine idle RPM jumps
around, For 2005 the voltage is about 20 volts AC at idle (see Figure 7-71, The voltage will increase as the RPM increases. If the rending is low or it does not increase with idle then suspect the rotor is bad. The open circuit voltage can reach over 100 volts AC if the engine is running fast enough. When doing, this test, do not touch the meter leads.
CAU'I'ION: A hazard of being shocked is present when measuring AC voltage.
NOTE: When checking resistance or AC voltage, polarity does not have to be observed with the meter leads
