Carburator question

Energy One
Maverick

Maverick

Member
I have been having a hard time keeping my carb in tune. It just doesn't seem to want to run at lower speeds, and doesn't like stop and go traffic. I've had it tuned three times this summer, the last time on a dyno. At lower speeds it backfires and will sometimes just die. The guy who dyno tuned it said that S&S carbs are shit, and suggested I change to a different carb, and this guy is an S&S dealer. So if I were to change the carb, any suggestions on what to go with? This on on a 2002 Husky with a 107, Vance and Hines 2 into 2, and a cone air cleaner.
 
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HMAN

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Throw in a Carb kit and re-jet. It worked wonders for me. FWIW I'm running a 31/78 and it runs great around town and screams on the hi-way.
 
Peckerwood

Peckerwood

Active Member
Don't know that S&S carbs are "shit", but mine seems to require periodic maintenance. Francoblay's attachments are simple to perform and will hook you up IF your jetting is correct. It's a simple process you can do yourself. If you feel the need to spend the $$$ to change out, a lot of my H-D riding friends have switched to Mikuni.
You also might want to have a look on top of your carb, there's a little rubber boot that tends to crack and dry rot, causing a lean condition. Replace if necessary.
 
Nukeranger

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
:confused: Why would a Guy who tuned your carb on a dyno not be able to get it right? Many, who tuned there own S&S carb, without a dyno have been successful! Being a 2002, the carb might need cleaning/rebuilding?
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Takes me about 10-15 minutes to tune an S&S carb without a Dyno. Always runs great for me.

I say take it apart, order a rebuild kit and some new jets
 
B

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
The most common problems I have found are...
-Intake manifold seal leak.
-Fuel mixture screw worn on taper (easy to pull out and check. If it has the slightest groove worn in taper, replace it. Only $7)
-Rubber plug on top nipples of carb dry rot and cause intake leak (if it has any)
-Exhaust gasket leak can cause excessive popping as well.
-Accelerator pump nozzle plugged.
-Accelerator pump assembly itself needs replacing ($19.95)

A good upgrade is a Mikuni...but, by time you buy the carburetor, backing plate, intake manifold, and throttle cables, you will have a good $1000 invested.
 
Wills67

Wills67

Well-Known Member
X2
And make sure the accelerator pump nozzle is spraying a nice fan straight into the carb. Not to the sides or out.
 
Maverick

Maverick

Member
Thanks for all the help and info. Hopefully I can get this straightened out before heading down to Arkansas later this month.
 
john sachs

john sachs

Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with a S&S carb. Anyone that's in the business, and tells you that, doesn't know what they're talking about. :down:
Not everything that seems to be a carb issue is. :confused:
John
 
francoblay1

francoblay1

The Spaniard
Bobby Shafto said:
Hey Franco, I am looking for a wire diagram that will work for a 2005 Ridgeback. Do you have any ideas?

Bobby
Click to expand...
Hey Bobby,

I do have the Service Manual... I guess it is in there. I will check it out when I go back to my Quarters. I am on my work PC right now.
 
rhino17

rhino17

Member
I was having throttle response issues at lower rpms. My accelerator pump nozzle was clogged and my needle/seat were worn. And the bike was only 4 years old at the time. So those S&S carbs will require some maintenance / replacement parts. I do have some decel popping but my mechanic told me the S&S website says decel popping can mean your jetting is pretty close.
Now I always run ethanol-free gas and every few tanks I'll add 1 oz/gal of seafoam.
 
B

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
rhino17 said:
I was having throttle response issues at lower rpms. My accelerator pump nozzle was clogged and my needle/seat were worn. And the bike was only 4 years old at the time. So those S&S carbs will require some maintenance / replacement parts. I do have some decel popping but my mechanic told me the S&S website says decel popping can mean your jetting is pretty close.
Now I always run ethanol-free gas and every few tanks I'll add 1 oz/gal of seafoam.
Click to expand...
Decel pop can be caused from a number of things, not just the jetting. Do you know the exhaust gaskets are good and not leaking? Also can be an exhaust system itself. Depending on baffle type, or no baffle at all can cause popping. Another thing you can try is turning the fuel screw counterclockwise a 1/16 of a turn at a time to see if that helps (but you don't want to turn so far that at idle it's running too rich and causing the plugs to carbon up) Have you checked the fuel screw itself for wear? This is a wear item and does need to be replaced after time. The needle will get a groove worn in it at the tapered part, and this will cause running issues and can be very difficult to tune in if worn.
 
rhino17

rhino17

Member
bigdogtech01 said:
Decel pop can be caused from a number of things, not just the jetting. Do you know the exhaust gaskets are good and not leaking? Also can be an exhaust system itself. Depending on baffle type, or no baffle at all can cause popping. Another thing you can try is turning the fuel screw counterclockwise a 1/16 of a turn at a time to see if that helps (but you don't want to turn so far that at idle it's running too rich and causing the plugs to carbon up) Have you checked the fuel screw itself for wear? This is a wear item and does need to be replaced after time. The needle will get a groove worn in it at the tapered part, and this will cause running issues and can be very difficult to tune in if worn.
Click to expand...
I am able to get rid of the decel pop by richening the fuel screw but the mechanic said I was washing the oil off the cylinder walls, so he adjusted it by listening to the motor. Haven't checked the exhaust gaskets yet. Didn't realize the fuel screw wears out, Thanks for the advice!
 
wrench

wrench

Member
S&S carbs are in my opinion one of the best carbs made. they are not that hard to dial in. the first thing to check with a low end running problem is the intake seals. just spray some carb cleaner at the intake flanges, if it dies, it sucking air.
wont idle, backfire from the pipes and low end running problems is a sign of a lean condition. intake leak, or too small of a primary jet.. many try to adjust the flush pump to fix the lean condition. by the time their done they have it all out of whack and claim the problem is the S&S carb.
 
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