Carb adjust

V

V

Guru
Okay didn't want to say jeting but here we go and yes I did search but I'd rather talk at you'all any way.

08 ridgeback, Woods W8, 590 lift cam, XXX carb, K&N air cleaner with S&S Desparado cover, Mean mothers with full baffle.

Carb came from Bob with .31 intermediate .78 secondary and .50 air bleed. Upon installation carb consistently blew back and would stall (to lean). Talked to Bob and Gasman and went to a .32 intermediate. Got the bike running good with the idle mixture screw 2 full turns out (at 1 3/4 turns rpms start to drop)

Rode 20 miles and have a flat spot between 1900-2500 but picks on up and goes. Pulled the plugs and they are white on the porcilin and the electrode (new plugs) and they are consistent with each other.

Have checked for intake leaks (washed intake system while running with brake cleaner) and found none.

Talked to Bob again and he said it wouldn't be uncommon to need a .33 intermediate

Bike is running like a scaled dog but the plugs lookin like they do make me think lean. Just haven't seen many members sayin there running a .33 and mine is a mild setup. Also will fire up esily with out the enrichener (40 degree day)

Opinions, thoughts, slanderous comments? And yes I know search and have the S&S instructions in hand but I thought I would throw it out to the Dawgs

Thanks For any and all help:hi:

Tosser V. :D
 
rhinoevans

rhinoevans

Active Member
Slightly enrich it a little, see how far you have turned the screw from set, and if that doesn't work the only answer to to go up one on the jet!
 
Raywood

Raywood

The Pirate
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V, S&S manual states that if you have to back out the air/fuel screw more than 1 3/4 turns then you need to go up on the intermediate jet.
I think a lot of folks here are running a 33.
You didn't mention if you have the accelerator pump turned off while tuning. It can mask an issue.

I'm running a 29.5 with an open filter and short pipes with my E carb!

As for the transition, fix the intermediate first then see if it cuts out some of your problems at 2500 rpm.

:D
 
G

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
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Do what the carb and plugs are telling you. Go to the 33.

Remember its also cold out... denser air so may need more fuel to compensate. Just understand that as it gets warmer you may need to go back to the 32.
 
lee

lee

Well-Known Member
V said:
Tosser V. :D
Click to expand...
Funny Virgil :D

Does seem like its running lean as the boys are saying but you already know that. Apologies cus I can't remember but what is the stock size air bleed? I'm thinking 40 for some reason. Unusual to stray away from that so maybe that has something to do with it.

Do you still have the bowl vent screw in there?

Stick the bigger jet in I would - your bike must be breathing well :2thumbs:
 
V

V

Guru
Thanks guys for the input!

Yea Lee the stock air bleed is a 40. and no I haven't removed the bowl vent yet. :cheers:
 
G

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
I know that allot of guys play with the bowl vent. But in the great words of Vickie... she's never touched the bowl vents... left them alone. Take it for what its worth.
 
Raywood

Raywood

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Gas Man said:
I know that allot of guys play with the bowl vent. But in the great words of Vickie... she's never touched the bowl vents... left them alone. Take it for what its worth.
Click to expand...
Including me. I removed it for a ride down to Kalifornia and it ran like shit so was so glad to get back home and put it back in.

:2thumbs:
 
T.Byrd

T.Byrd

Well-Known Member
Mine will not run without a dead spot with out taking the venting screw out of the side of carb. Im running a xxx G with dual K&N filters on it. Ive had volicity stacks and filters both and it will not run with the venting screw in.Running 31 inter. and 78 main. Runs like a striped ass ape with screw out. Try it you might like it it cost nothing to try.I think it matters a lot on what kind of breather you are running S&S even says to take out venting screw when running v stacks.
 
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DRBarnhart

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
Right out of the S&S manual...


For any all-out racing application which includes use of air cleaner without element or use of air horn, bowl vent screw should be removed to insure atmospheric air pressure exists in bowl.


YMMV... :D​


Dennis



​
 
Raywood

Raywood

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DRBarnhart said:
Right out of the S&S manual...


For any all-out racing application which includes use of air cleaner without element or use of air horn, bowl vent screw should be removed to insure atmospheric air pressure exists in bowl.


YMMV... :D​


Dennis

​
Click to expand...
Very good DR but V is running the stock S&S aircleaner. You should post that on Skooters thread on "Super G jetting" cause he is running a velocity stack.

:cheers:
 
DRBarnhart

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
Raywood said:
Very good DR but V is running the stock S&S aircleaner. You should post that on Skooters thread on "Super G jetting" cause he is running a velocity stack.:cheers:
Click to expand...
Actually I was just tryin' to be helpful in answering the question whether V should or shouldn't mess with the vent plug. :D

Seems S&S would say leave it alone. :)

Dennis
 
T.Byrd

T.Byrd

Well-Known Member
Can anyone answer this for me then. Im running a Wimmer Dual Runner System and Ive ran it with the Super Suckers on it and with K&N Filters on it and it will not run without taking the vent screw out. 31 Inter. and 78 Main. XXX Super G Carb. and Mean Mother Pipes.With the screw in it has a dead spot.
 
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lee

lee

Well-Known Member
because the vent screw only needs taking out with SOME aftermarket intakes and not others - with the S&S single bore intake that I and a few others have the instructions actually tell you to remove the screw.
 
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