Cam Sensor
- Thread starter sigma01
- Start date
paleskin
Active Member
Nope- the way to go is calling AMYLULU at strokers, turns out the part number won't cross check since BDM took the S&S part and modified it with a pigtail connector to fit their propietary wiring stuff. She just chased all this down for me on Monday. It's still fresh, let her know exactly what you need and be sure to ask if it is a part that was modified by BDM, since I don't know if the '02 Pit was different than my '09 Mastiff. Good luck
PitbullKC
Active Member
sigma01 - I have an 03 Pitbull & had to replace mine too.
FYI- The original manufacturer, THUNDERHEART, calls them "trigger plates".
I sent mine to Brooke @ Thunderheart and had them test mine.
Because I sent it directly to them for testing, they gave me a new one at "cost".
I think it was around $36.
Also, I would send your Ignition Module to them as well, since its a Thunderheart too.
They didn't charge anything to test them. There tech, Larry, contacted me within 2 days with the results.
Just curious, what symptoms are you having that make you feel your's is faulty?
Try this for me:
1) Take off the seat and make sure the connections are good from your Ignition Module (The metal box mounted to the rear fender about the size of a credit card).
2) Turn the key to "ON".
3) While keeping an eye on your ignition module, press the "RUN" button.
a red LED light should light up for a few seconds on your Ignition Module, then go off.
4) Now press "START" while still watching your Ignition Module. The red LED light should 'flash/pulsate' as you are pressing the START button. The flashing LED confirms that your trigger plate (cam sensor) is most likely not the problem & is in good working condition.
Also, I would do a search on here for how to test your Ignition Module, Trigger Plate / Cam Sensor, Ignition Switch, & Coils with a multi-meter.
I just got done chasing what I thought was the same issue.
Hopefully I can save you some time &/or lead you in the right direction.
Feel free to PM me.
Here is Brooke's contact info from Thunderheart:
Brooke Padgett
Customer Service
Thunder Heart Performance
120 Industrial Drive
White House, TN 37188
615-616-1127
615-672-1353- fax
brookem@thunder-heart.com
FYI- The original manufacturer, THUNDERHEART, calls them "trigger plates".
I sent mine to Brooke @ Thunderheart and had them test mine.
Because I sent it directly to them for testing, they gave me a new one at "cost".
I think it was around $36.
Also, I would send your Ignition Module to them as well, since its a Thunderheart too.
They didn't charge anything to test them. There tech, Larry, contacted me within 2 days with the results.
Just curious, what symptoms are you having that make you feel your's is faulty?
Try this for me:
1) Take off the seat and make sure the connections are good from your Ignition Module (The metal box mounted to the rear fender about the size of a credit card).
2) Turn the key to "ON".
3) While keeping an eye on your ignition module, press the "RUN" button.
a red LED light should light up for a few seconds on your Ignition Module, then go off.
4) Now press "START" while still watching your Ignition Module. The red LED light should 'flash/pulsate' as you are pressing the START button. The flashing LED confirms that your trigger plate (cam sensor) is most likely not the problem & is in good working condition.
Also, I would do a search on here for how to test your Ignition Module, Trigger Plate / Cam Sensor, Ignition Switch, & Coils with a multi-meter.
I just got done chasing what I thought was the same issue.
Hopefully I can save you some time &/or lead you in the right direction.
Feel free to PM me.
Here is Brooke's contact info from Thunderheart:
Brooke Padgett
Customer Service
Thunder Heart Performance
120 Industrial Drive
White House, TN 37188
615-616-1127
615-672-1353- fax
brookem@thunder-heart.com
Moespeeds
Well-Known Member
Just yank out the old one, cut the plug off, take it to a local HD dealer and let them pull you a new one. You just need one for an EVO style motor, tell them a 1998 Fat Boy. It's only 3 wires, just cut off the connector and solder it back in. I second what PitbullKC said, make sure it's the cam sensor before you just start replacing stuff.
Cam sensor gives off a hall effect; a square wave signal.
AC is the output and that may be a little under 3v.
So to see if the sensor puts out; set the meter to 10 or 20v scale; pull the plugs; install the plugs back in their caps and ground them sitting on the heads somewhere? This now lets the engine spin faster for a better output read.
Find the sensor's ground and black probe to that wire. Find the wire going to the black box and eliminate that one. Red probe goes to the last wire. Hit the starter and watch the output.
WATT was the last thing you did to the bike is now no spark, right? If you didn't touch the bike, then follow sending in the whole ign system as stated she shows no output.
AC is the output and that may be a little under 3v.
So to see if the sensor puts out; set the meter to 10 or 20v scale; pull the plugs; install the plugs back in their caps and ground them sitting on the heads somewhere? This now lets the engine spin faster for a better output read.
Find the sensor's ground and black probe to that wire. Find the wire going to the black box and eliminate that one. Red probe goes to the last wire. Hit the starter and watch the output.
WATT was the last thing you did to the bike is now no spark, right? If you didn't touch the bike, then follow sending in the whole ign system as stated she shows no output.