blackdogg6164
Member
what type of cable lube is recommended? I know WD 40 is out of the question.
cable lubing procedure
- Thread starter blackdogg6164
- Start date
SKOGDOG
One of the old ones.
Ditto Jwoooky. Bike aid dri-slide. Amazon or E bay. Also Dead One Customs sells it. Wild Steed Worx sells a teflon cable lube. One jug lasts forever-handle the needle with care because if you kink it, it won't dispense correctly, and you'll have to cut it shorter. So remove it when not in use and rubber band it to the bottle.
I have used bike aid dri slide and am sneaking up on 60,000 miles (plus) on my original clutch cable.
Blacktopper uses dry graphite powder...damn nasty to deal with but definitely a superior Cale lubricant.
I have used bike aid dri slide and am sneaking up on 60,000 miles (plus) on my original clutch cable.
Blacktopper uses dry graphite powder...damn nasty to deal with but definitely a superior Cale lubricant.
francoblay1
The Spaniard
I think it's good practice to take it apart and run the lube through to grease up the wheels so to speak. I never lubed my Teflon one and it broke with about 9k miles while I was 250+ miles from home. Won't make that mistake again and actually the 05+ Baker Trans is an easy disassembly no need to drain any fluids. Where as my Jim's unit on the 04 Id have to drain the fluid.
I think you could get away with just squirting some lube down by the lever but it's really best practice to run it through so you can flush the dirt out. Also this gives you the opportunity to clean and regrease your ball and ramp assembly which should help increase the life your cable.
Rick is pulling 60k on his cable, I think now it's a game for him. I would have replaced it by now even just for the hell of it. But more power to him, switching cables on the road will suck ass.
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
A baggie with the corner cut just enough to go over the cable. A rubber band over the bag and just at the end of the cable is the necktie of that rubber band or is shallow meaning, so there is a minimum of [thin running] AFT going down the outside of the cable. Not saying you can't sip a little slower with engine oil and wait longer... wink-wink.
WD more attracts moisture to rust the inner cable and is more a chemical release agent than a lube agent to break the rust down once again is not to use WD.
WD more attracts moisture to rust the inner cable and is more a chemical release agent than a lube agent to break the rust down once again is not to use WD.
francoblay1
The Spaniard
I lean the bike as much as I can and squirt a good dose from the top (at the lever) so it goes down all the way... first time I put too much and it was coming out by the bottom end. No problem, just had to clean the frame. LOL
Damn I've never been able to get much lube in that way.
The only thing I wonder is if you don't take the cable off what does the cable lube do to the grease on the ball and ramp? Can't imagine those mix well but will certainly work in a pinch
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
Update:
Because I'm old and live with a liquid lever. I forgot about the cable and that split in half outer cable like a h-d, right?
I run the threads as in hide them so the slack is at the lever perch. No thumb wheel but just the slot in the perch/switch assembly? Anyway, I just pull the clutch in, grab the neck of the cable at the perch, pull the cable, let the lever go, and I'm talking taking a man candy bar with some arm pulling at it. Then the dexterity is to lace it out of the slot without tagging the chrome. Blue wall tape? I use that for padding at the split both top and bottom. I bite into a stale energy bar, miss the swing, tag the spit at the perch, see that blue pad be the sacrificial nice try you missed?
Then at the split of the cable, any tape is going to goo up with the oil attacking it. Tie cling wrap real tight at the male/female intersects so the oil is passing more down the inner than the outer cable.
Brain fade: And then you hold the end of the cable at the blue tape where you missed, pull the lever and hoop that fucker back in the perch with a snap.
Because I'm old and live with a liquid lever. I forgot about the cable and that split in half outer cable like a h-d, right?
I run the threads as in hide them so the slack is at the lever perch. No thumb wheel but just the slot in the perch/switch assembly? Anyway, I just pull the clutch in, grab the neck of the cable at the perch, pull the cable, let the lever go, and I'm talking taking a man candy bar with some arm pulling at it. Then the dexterity is to lace it out of the slot without tagging the chrome. Blue wall tape? I use that for padding at the split both top and bottom. I bite into a stale energy bar, miss the swing, tag the spit at the perch, see that blue pad be the sacrificial nice try you missed?
Then at the split of the cable, any tape is going to goo up with the oil attacking it. Tie cling wrap real tight at the male/female intersects so the oil is passing more down the inner than the outer cable.
Brain fade: And then you hold the end of the cable at the blue tape where you missed, pull the lever and hoop that fucker back in the perch with a snap.