Bought a used bike need some help/tips

[sc5117]

Bought a 2003 Mastiff from a bank. Cleaned it up over the weekend (looking good). This bike was repo from about a year ago and has been in a shed during this period of time. They claimed it would not start at the time it was picked up. They had put a new battery in it and still could not get it to start. After a good wash & wax job I thought I would throw the charger on it.

I am going to drain the fuel and change the oil in it but decided to see if it would turn over. Seems to turn over fine but doesn't act like it wants to fire. (any recommendations)

Also I notice that the rear brake disc is loose. Is there a special tool to tighten it back up?

Also left rear tail light is broke off (hanging there). (where is there best place for replacement parts)

Also the speedometer not working and it looks like it has taken some moisture. (replacement)

Any other things that you would recommend to check out? Type of oil recommendations. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Kent

 

[Brew]

Welcome from Washington State, sounds like you're on the right track by changing the fluids and if it's been sitting, that gas might be bad. Keep in mind you have dual tanks and to get the left fuel cap off it's left handed threads (so lefty is tighty and righty is loosy). Pull your plugs and see if they are wet if not your not getting fuel, if so it might be flooded, see below:

Maybe this will help ya:
1) Fuel valve turned off. (Low fuel requires the fuel valve to be turned to reserve)
2) Fuel tank empty
3) Engine flooded with fuel
4) Fouled Spark Plugs
5) Fuel valve clogged
6) Spark plug cable connections loose or in bad condition and shorting
7) Throttle held open when enricher is used
8) Lose or corroded wire or cable connections at coil

 

[BadBrad]

The broken tail light could actually be shorting out your electrical system. You can get most replacement parts for an '03 at your local Harley dealership. Can you give a little more description on it? When you turn the key on, does the speedo sweep and the milage show up? If not, I would unplug the wires going to the rear lights and see if that makes a difference. A common problem for that bike is that when riding 2 people, the fender may come in contact with the tire and rub the wires going to the tail lights, causing a short. The disc you say is loose is most likely OK. It's called a floating disc and I'm not aware of any tool that will tighten the rivits. It's a strange design, but it works. The big dog speedo is bad to get moisture but after they dry out, they seem to be ok. If not, I would consider a Dakota Digital. Made to fit right in place of the original. Check to make sure you're getting fire to the plugs when you turn the motor over. If so, like Brew said, make sure you're getting gas too. Keep us posted. You'll get it running soon. The '03 was a damn good year for Big Dog. It was before they started putting proprietary parts on them and you should have it up and running in no time.

 

[sc5117]

Thanks Brew & BadBrad! I will be checking these things out.

Kent

 

[LARS]

While your checking things out,look inside the tanks to see if the liner broke apart,may be blocking gas flow.Just a thought.

 

[sc5117]

OK thanks LARS!

 

[stlmikie]

Pay close attention to the wires at the rear of the bike! That rear fender you have is an aftermarket fender. It wouldn't surprise me in the slightest if when the fender was changed that ended up leading to compromised wires at a later date from one reason or the other. Now that we've advised you hold up your end of the deal and keep us informed what you find. And how much did you land the bike for if you don't mind my asking. I too have an 03 mastiff. I once had rubbed wires under the fender that ultamatly shorted and fried the ehc. The plugs for your rear lights were originally under the seat where the fender meets the battery box. Don't forget to tell us what you find!

 

[beano]

CAn i get as new speed for my 02 oitbull from harley?

 

[sc5117]

So what does the EHC & do they go bad?

Started back working on the 03 Mastiff. Seems to turn over like a top no fire yet. I have seen some posts on the EHC. Could that be a problem & I guess are the still available if I need one?

Kent

 

[CCRainman]

Started back working on the 03 Mastiff. Seems to turn over like a top no fire yet. I have seen some posts on the EHC. Could that be a problem & I guess are the still available if I need one?

Kent

EHC is not a problem on that bike. You need to check for spark and fuel. Get us some more info. You have juice because it's turning over, now check to see if you are getting fuel. Take the cleaner off and twist the throttle to see if you are getting any fuel to the carb.

 

[stlmikie]

Like the Rainman says. You should see a fan of fuel spray out in the carb. Bike not running. Snap the throttle. Says me.

 

[sc5117]

Here is what I have done so far

Earlier I had drained the fuel tanks.
Took the fuel valve out checked & cleaned filter (also checked for debris in tanks) of coarse now I have a small leak.
Had a broken tail light fixed it and is working. (but I just thought of - need to see if brake lights are working)
Put new spark plugs in.
Tightened up ignition switch.
Checked to see if I had voltage coming into the coil. (was low and before I dropped the coil out a wire connecter fell out so replaced it - with switch on should I have 12+ volts coming into it?)
Tried to fire - just turns over like a champ but no fire.
Checked spark plug wires (good).
Checked for spark - nothing.
Checked (is that a cam or crank sensor) wire with ignition on I have power coming to it (is that suppose to be 12+ volts?)

I did notice back at the Heart/Sword module I have no light.
Also there is another black relay or something with a yellow & red light I believe and the yellow light is on.

Otherwise everything seems to be working electronically. I did notice I have no low beam on the headlight.
Also I am going to need to do some work on the brakes. Seem hard or froze up (controls)

Like I said in my earlier post this bike was sitting in a shed for a year before I got it and I not sure how long it had not run prior.

You know I am kind of having fun trying to figure this thing out.

 

[stlmikie]

If the light on your module isn't lighting I'm thinking either the module itself or more likely than that the cam/crank censor. I need to see a picture of this bike too.

 

[sc5117]

So where do I get a sensor and how do I replace it?

 

[stlmikie]

There are a couple tests to run to verify if it is defective. I'll look around to see if I can find the posts.

 

[stlmikie]

Here is the test. I copied it from another post. The ehc lights are different on your bike. Just do the test on the sensor.




I'm no expert in electronics like some on here are but here's what I've picked up. When you turn your ignition switch on you should get an amber flash from the "Main power" light on the EHC. Refer to the link of the EHC lights that I sent you. When you press Run on your "Engine Stop" switch you should get a red reply from the "Ignition" light on the EHC.
If it's working you should also get a flashing red light from your Thunderheart ignition module.

I'm assuming you're in the same boat that I am:
1. Starter engages when you press the START button
2. You've checked the spark plugs and are sure you aren't getting spark
3. You're getting 12v to the coil

Now you need to test your cam sensor for signal. Run DRBarnhart's Ignition Cam Sensor Test:
Disconnect the cam sensor from the ignition module. Take out your trusty multimeter and set it to the RX1 scale.

1. Now while touching the sensor backing plate with the negative meter lead touch the positive meter lead on each of the three wires of the sensor connector (red, black, & green). If you get continuity from the backing plate to any of them the sensor is bad. If it passes the first test...
2. With your meter still at the same settings touch the positive meter lead to the green wire and the negative meter lead to the black wire. If you get an "open" it's good. (Any resistance is "bad)
3. Then take the positive meter lead and touch the black sensor wire while touching the negative meter lead to the green wire. In this case an "open" is bad. A reading somewhere around 300 - 750 Kohms is what you're looking for.

The Thunderheart Ignition Module and your cam sensor are 2 parts to your ignition module and are replaced together. I haven't looked closely at replacing with a new Thunderheart brand because I couldn't get much tech help with their company.

Here's a few alternatives if you need to replace yours:
Thunderheart Crank Sensor Ignition
Dynatek 2000I ignition Module d2ki-1p
Crane Hi-4 Ignition Module timing
Dyna 3.0 coils 0604-1
Timing cam HD part no. 32402-83
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05-14-2011, 12:38 AM * #19 (permalink)
Dennis
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Name: Dennis
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pics of the cam sensor

 

[sc5117]

Few picture of what I have

Few pictures of what I am dealing with in the prior post.

 

[stlmikie]

Ah yes. I remember now. The green bike with the aftermarket rear fender.

 

[sc5117]

Ran out to the shop (actually to grab a beer out of the fig) and thought I would test my brake lights which I do not have any. Anyway I did notice the light on the heart/sword module was kind of flickering and then got solid (all within about 15 seconds) then went out when I switched the Off & Run switch to Run. Even jiggled some of the wires to see if the might be a loose connection.
Busy this weekend & haven't had time to try the information which you passed along Mike. Thank you for doing that.
Kent

 

[CCRainman]

That little blcak box with the 2 wires if I am not mistaken on the side has a little breaker switch. Sometimes when that trips you get no juice either. Check to see if there is a little push in breaker on the side. Your heading inthe right direction with Mike's help.