Battery help please!

Energy One

pastor t

Active Member
The battery that came with my bike in Sept. was new. Just last month I went out to start the bike one morning it tried to start and then clicked and would do nothing after that. The battery would not charge had it tested and Auto zone said it was dead. Ordered a "chrome battery" from the big dog listings on ebay. Put it in took right off. Used the bike once. Went out to start it yesterday and the same thing. It started up but after a few cranks it clicked and then dead! Tried to charge it for 5 hrs. and it would not take a charge, not even enough charge to have it tested. The battery was 2 wks. old. I'm getting ready to buy the one fivefive recommended. Before I put it in, is there any chance that my bike via the voltage regulator or something in the charging system could be frying these batteries? I'm mechanical but not that great with electrical. What do you guys say?:confused:

Thanks!
 

stlmikie

I wish I had more money.
Go get a Harley AGM softail battery. Good bang for the buck. Or go big and get the Braile.
 

Trainguy

Chromeoholic
I have the same Battery as Bill (FiveFive) 465 cca. You have to have both feet planted on the ground when you hit the start button:eek: But it sounds more than just a battery issue, to eat up two batteries in a short period like that:bang:
 

erldawg

Guru
Sounds like you need to check your charging system. Something is killing them. 13.5-14.5 volts is what you should see at the battery when the bike is running at about 2-3k rpm's.

When i would ride the K9 during the summer no tender needed. When rides are far nd few between it should be on a tender.
 

mark whitrock

Active Member
Get a Harley battery and whenever you get home after a ride let the lights burn for two minutes then shut off and plug up your tender. This will help your battery last a lot longer and will insure a fully charged battery each time you leave home.
 

Blackie

08’ RIDGEBACK
Troop Supporter
Supporting Member
My Volatge Regulator went out last month.(Got one from Drag Specialties). Have you checked it to see what its putting out? Sound like that could be the problem. Went ahead and replaced battery as it was three years old. Went back with HD AGM battery with 330 CCA. Puttin out 14.2 consistently. After 600 miles no problems.
 

pastor t

Active Member
My Volatge Regulator went out last month.(Got one from Drag Specialties). Have you checked it to see what its putting out? Sound like that could be the problem. Went ahead and replaced battery as it was three years old. Went back with HD AGM battery with 330 CCA. Puttin out 14.2 consistently. After 600 miles no problems.
So it is possible for the voltage regulator to fry a battery?
 

Letbigdogintocanada

Active Member
Deff check your charging system,it's funny cus I had a similiar situation a couple of years ago,I actually went through 2 bad batteries myself thinking my charging system was faulty,just picked up 2 crappy batteries.Now I go with Yuasa , and check when they were manufactured.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Look at it like this...

Battery loses charge 1% a day.
30 days times 1% = 30% battery power is lost.
Sept till now? = Say 3 months times 90% down on cca.

Technically = If the charger does not charge, then suspect the charger.
Quality = If the battery did not take a charge, what are the odds something broke internally and you are no longer connected from (+) to (-).
Ohm Meter = If the charger is junk, you set the meter to the 20v scale for a [12v] battery. Get it?
14 Plus Volts = If your battery charger is not showing a charge rate of 14.2 or better - Junk charger.

Think quality. Think junk. Think about how much you lost buying junk and now you are back to quality = See WATT Happens to your wallet's WAD? :angry:

Now, not to bad mouth every battery out there, but did anyone prep that puppy properly?

Penultimate Prep Before Service:

1. Fill battery [if fluid is supplied] and wait an hour or more so the liquid soaks in the plates.

2. Charge the battery to full capacity - Anything over 13v you pull a charger lead off the ground side and check.

3. Take a headlight/taillight bulb and wire it to the battery. Use the high beam and brake light to drain that battery dead to 1v.

4. Charge the battery to full capacity. Do this 3 times. Once the battery is fully charged for the 3 time, install battery. :hi:
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know where I can get a voltage regulator?
Stop throwing parts at it! :eek: Shit is too simple. Chew buy that ohm meter yet? :roll:

Just get a plain old H-D v/reg from the counter. Don't matter the year. It is a box that sends any higher voltage to ground, and is balanced to run 14.2v at idle up to WOT.

Buy a cheap ohm meter - They last believe it or not. Set the scale to 20v. Place the red probe on the (+) lug of the battery. Place the black probe to a frame nut or bolt [w/out paint on it], or touch the (-) lead lug of the battery.

Start bike and let it idle. Watch the voltage drop you go starting it. Then watch the voltage at idle. That v/reg should pop over 14.1v to refill the battery from that starter move. Looking at all that visual thru the meter; shows an x-ray of your voltage output, the v/reg, and the battery's holding capacity. You turn the bike off, she should read 13v right off, then she stabilizes at 12.6 to 12.8v all day long in the static = For years.
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
Look at it like this...

Battery loses charge 1% a day.
30 days times 1% = 30% battery power is lost.
Sept till now? = Say 3 months times 90% down on cca.

Technically = If the charger does not charge, then suspect the charger.
Quality = If the battery did not take a charge, what are the odds something broke internally and you are no longer connected from (+) to (-).
Ohm Meter = If the charger is junk, you set the meter to the 20v scale for a [12v] battery. Get it?
14 Plus Volts = If your battery charger is not showing a charge rate of 14.2 or better - Junk charger.

Think quality. Think junk. Think about how much you lost buying junk and now you are back to quality = See WATT Happens to your wallet's WAD? :angry:

Now, not to bad mouth every battery out there, but did anyone prep that puppy properly?

Penultimate Prep Before Service:

1. Fill battery [if fluid is supplied] and wait an hour or more so the liquid soaks in the plates.

2. Charge the battery to full capacity - Anything over 13v you pull a charger lead off the ground side and check.

3. Take a headlight/taillight bulb and wire it to the battery. Use the high beam and brake light to drain that battery dead to 1v.

4. Charge the battery to full capacity. Do this 3 times. Once the battery is fully charged for the 3 time, install battery. :hi:
Those 3. and 4. look suspicious! If you let the battery “die”, to my knowledge it will never have more than half the original juice…
Hell, I just bought a new battery to replace 3 years old HD battery on my bike. It was still OK until “someone” disconnected the charger and left it drain for 6 months…
Anyway the warranty papers say that if you discharge the battery completely it can not be charged completely and the Warranty doesn’t cover that… That goes pretty much with my previous knowledge.
Also don’t charge your battery with high wattage charger, these small batteries like slow charging…
Tapio
 

RoadRider

Active Member
I agree with Tapiok you should never fully discharge your battery on purpose . Ni Cad batteries used that type of system to get them fully charged but not lead acid batteries.
 

Brew

Troop Supporter
I have to agree with Earl. Make sure your charging system is functioning before throwing parts at it. Also check your circuit breaker and make sure it didn't trip.
 

pastor t

Active Member
Thanks for all the posts. I'm not planning to buy any parts until I believe that is what I need. Just wanted to know if one is available if that is the issue. I'm planning to get a Walmart battery to do my testing so I don't ruin a more expensive battery in the process. Thanks for the numbers to check the charging system out, I'm getting a meter in the morning.

Thanks everyone and Merry Christmas!
 

pastor t

Active Member
Thanks for all the posts. I'm not planning to buy any parts until I believe that is what I need. Just wanted to know if one is available if that is the issue. I'm planning to get a Walmart battery to do my testing so I don't ruin a more expensive battery in the process. Thanks for the numbers to check the charging system out, I'm getting a meter in the morning.

Thanks everyone and Merry Christmas!
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Here's the problem. You mofo's do not listen to me is why I sign off as NOLTT (know won list inns two turd dull)

I call Yo Wassa battery company. I say, talk to me. After about 20 minutes on the phone, the tech guy goes, 'We take the competitions battery, match them down 3 times the charm." I hang up, take a new lead/acid battery and it's on it's second year, give me thatshit about your battery hearing about it takes a shit in a month, and here I physically did it to mine. I choose my threads carefully like you and I are about to have a BatteryChargeOff Comp Pee Tissues is I'm not the won wit a short battery life and its issues.

Can you esplane it to me now?


LOL You guys! :job:


Signed,

NOLTT
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
Jeesus Sven, have mercy on me I'm a Finn! "Normal english" is difficult for me. Vai saatko sinä tästä minun kirjoituksestani mitään tollkua? Just asking.
Tapio
 
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