AIH: Clutch out

[bdmridgeback]

Sul... are you saying Revtech primary oil wouldn't be correct for his AIH/Primo setup?

I also noticed yesterday when I got the plates outside in the sun (his garage has poor lighting) that the steels have some darkness on the edges vs the brighter silver in the centers.

The Revtech fluid would be correct as long as he didn't use a synthetic, but I am sure that Rev doesn't even make one.

As for the plates being shiney where worn and darker around the outside if the bike has a few thousand miles on it. That would just be normal wear, now, if there was a groove worn in then I would ??? it.

 

[lee]

Lee, when you were having problems with your clutch rod what were the symptoms?

Very heavy clunk into first gear when the bike was cold, so much so that it would often cause the bike to surge forward and stall. The clutch was clearly not disengaging properly or the plates were sticking. Once it got warmed up it was better.

Also, the clutch adjustment was way out from where it should have been. Instead of the quarter turn out from seated I think it was nearer to two complete turns out. At a quarter turn out the clutch would not engage at all.

Hope this helps Chris

 

[dogvet]

Check the throw out bearing, make sure it's ok and check the pushrod to make sure the end of the pushrod has worn the surface hardening on the tips of the pushrod. Once the hardness goes, so does the adjustment.

 

[Gas Man]

That is actually where we are at right now Dogvet. I took the throw out bearing apart and the needle bearings were shot and some were gone. The guy at the shop said he said that would happen, that once they start to go bad, they go bad fast.

So I got a new one on the push rod.

Explain the hardness tip on the rod...TNX

 

[alhall88]

Probably a low carbon steel like 8620 then they heat treat with a case hardness usually .028 to .030 deep. But once the case hardness wears out your back to a relatively mild soft steel which will wear very quickly.

 

[Gas Man]

OK... thanks as always Mr Metal aka Al.

So I'm guessing that Dogvet is saying that the clutch rod is made of similar metal and to watch it for wear. ?????

 

[alhall88]

Yeah just look at the rod tip you'll be able to tell, it should just have a smooth shiny radius on the tip. If it looks dull or rough and doesn't have a smooth transition from the radius to a angle then replace it.

 

[dogvet]

OK... thanks as always Mr Metal aka Al.

So I'm guessing that Dogvet is saying that the clutch rod is made of similar metal and to watch it for wear. ?????

On the older BDM's (04 and earlier) the clutch pushrod was heat tempered on the ends. when the cheezy little throw out bearing failed, it would result in the failure of the hardened ends of the pushrod and making the clutch adjustment a daily affair. If you are suddenly going through frequent clutch adjustments, check the rod. the 05 and later models have a different type of pushrod and doesn't appear to be heat tempered.:2thumbs:

 

[Gas Man]

Thanks dog vet. This is on a AIH though. I have a pic of the rod now... just need to download it.. Goign to put it all back together tonight. Hell, probably have most of it back together by the time Nick gets off work.

 

[Gas Man]

As I said... we replaced the throw out bearing and here's why...

WOW!!!

There is suppose to be very small needle bearings in there... who would have thunk!!

That's ok... a $8 part and that is fixed

Obvoiusly buttoned the primary all back up

Got the rod back in and the ball ramp back on

Adjusted it and it seemed better. To me, still not 100%. Will take it for a test ride once we get the ignition replaced. If not the ends of the clutch rods are worn a bit... and this will be the next attack.

So the ignition that we were hoping to get in from FedEx today, wasn't in... but no reason we couldn't get a jump start (no pun intended)...

Pull the rear wheel

Rear axle and spacers... always worth noting their correct position (also note the lack of dirt and sand on the lift)

Removed the rear wheel to gain access to where AIH put the ignition. Yep on the front of the rear splash gaurd. Just out of reach of getting to it from above the tranny.

$138 + S&H for this thing

But damn... look at all the dirt and sand that came out from behind the ignition... no wonder it went to shit, cause you know water took it up there!!

All ready for the new ignition and more miles

So the clutch status is still pending... it definatley works and moves the diaphram out... but I still don't like the feel.

 

[Chopper Dave]

damn Gas...you guys are really tearing into that fucker:up: good deal....

 

[wuudogg]

Hey Gas. Just submit and open your own shop !

I'd bring my bike there.

 

[lee]

good work gas - what ignition are you putting in there?

 

[Gas Man]

No shit NCD and Wuu... or the very least I should just tell guys to bring their bikes to my crib instead of hauling tools all over. But these are my buds and my riding buds... so I tend to be a softy for helping out my friends.

Lee... he just went with another AIH "ignitor" for ease and lack of other cheap options. Its only $150 after S&H from Texas vs he would have to get a new cam cover then a $300 Dyna 2Ki... which would put him in the $600 range...

 

[scubaman15]

I love this shit....:up: :up:

 

[Gas Man]

Got the new "ignitor" installed and poof... it fired right up. Mounted the rear tire back up and good to go!!

 

[lee]

you're a good man Chris

 

[Gas Man]

Thanks Lee. That is Wed/Thur/Fri/Sat/Mon/Tue/Wed that I worked on bikes for buds at their houses. Still have my bud's, Sgt, Honda to get on the lift and maybe Seatmaker for his most recent bolt problem fix.