Mine was more a basic peek at the internals via a plug read, not a race profile. Note the line going in... 'trailer the vehicle back to read a plug.' If the timing didn't change, nor the jetting, it's this side of melting down the plug via the porcelain used. The less porcelain, the less retained heat. That's the cooling factor, not the side electrode color per say. You are handcuffed to so many heat ranges trying to chase a side electrode heating up ideally. Besides, those are not race plugs. The porcelain looks too long and hot for racing. The center electrode is not fine wire anshit. The gas used can change color from pump to racing blends. And too, you'd have to throw heat at the engine so you'd have to run a few laps, and then kill the engine at redline/top gear/most load and all that sustained speed. Now read that new plug down at the porcelain.
The flat part where the side electrode is welded to: that color can be found down at the porcelain, at the exhaust valve, the exhaust port, and the tip of the muffler. That's 3 open circuits [at WOT} contributing to the vacuum suck = AFR. This is more race bike color(s) with little hours and kept at high rpm for that amount of time. No way to tune a street bike with that kind of rpm thrown at it. The BD works within a certain range and if one calls out a number for the jetting, this is more hit and miss 'forum tuning' with a suggested setup. It's seat of the pants from there on out.
In other words, doesn't knock under load; doesn't overheat, doesn't fall on its face (lean), rather chirps the tire when you wick it open and keeps pulling from there.
Pull your plugs and post a picture. A stock 2005 is unlikely to need more than a .295. Mine runs rich with .31 and I have cam and pipes. These are mine with a .31. Definitely rich at idle, midrange is great. BTW this is California gas which sucks.
. Welcome back and thanks for sharing
