adjusting push rods

[Tomtang aka Reptilejim]

Getting ready to adjust the push rods on my o6 ridgeback.
I've reading all of the info and I think I'm ready. My bike has been ticking quite abit from the front cylinder. Im going to start with the push rods hopefully after the adjustment I can stop there, but if not I'll move to rocker boxes and heads. John Sachs informed me that the rocker boxes may be the culprit of the racket. If there's anything else I need to know, inform me. Thanks guys!

 

[BBChopper]

What Rocker Boxes do you have???

 

[V]

Specs call for 4 turns on the pushrod, but you can quiet them down by going as little as 3 turns on the rods. I have mine at 3 1/2 turns and it fairly quiet.

 

[MARV]

just GOT to be at TDC of the compression stroke for the cylinder your working on.

a quick way to tell is remove the pushrod covers and, as you turn the rear wheel while in 6th gear and plugs removed, the rods will both be at there lowest points. which means both valves are closed.

a way to confirm is to remove the sight plug and see T:F which is TDC front.

 

[BadBrad]

just GOT to be at TDC of the compression stroke for the cylinder your working on.

a quick way to tell is remove the pushrod covers and, as you turn the rear wheel while in 6th gear and plugs removed, the rods will both be at there lowest points. which means both valves are closed.

a way to confirm is to remove the sight plug and see T:F which is TDC front.

Marv, there you go getting technical again. What does T:F mean? I guess TDC front is the front piston being at its highest point in the cylinder? If my gaskets get in today, I'll be putting my rear cylinder back together, which includes installing and adjusting the push rods.

Specs call for 4 turns on the pushrod, but you can quiet them down by going as little as 3 turns on the rods. I have mine at 3 1/2 turns and it fairly quiet.

Also, when you say "4 turns" do you mean 4 full turns more after the rod has the slack adjusted out of it?

Thanks guys!

 

[Dakotabos]

Mine are making noise pulling hills since the hard run from Sturgis so its time to adjust but

Here I say it.... I am taking it to my harley guy today... barely have time to drop it off

Right now I have more dollars then sense and no time on my hand and sounds bad when racing up the hill so time to fix it


Funny I can tear a engine down and rebuild but now I cant find time to do a 20 min fix :bang:

 

[MARV]

Marv, there you go getting technical again. What does T:F mean? I guess TDC front is the front piston being at its highest point in the cylinder? If my gaskets get in today, I'll be putting my rear cylinder back together, which includes installing and adjusting the push rods.





Thanks guys!

top dead centre


to adjust rods it has to be on the comp stroke

T:F is the mark on S&S flywheel showing TDC front cyclinder

 

[V]

Also, when you say "4 turns" do you mean 4 full turns more after the rod has the slack adjusted out of it?

Thanks guys!

4 full turns with the lifter at its lowest postion. You want to adjust the rod to where you can just turn it by hand then turn an additional 4 turns and lock it. You then need to let it bleed down until you can turn it by hand before rotating the motor to do the next.

Also you can check S&S website and look at and print the instruction sheets

 

[Raywood]

Hey "Tech" wizards. What if my lifters are dry? No mention in the book about new or dry lifters. When I install them should I fill them with oil? Or after I get it all together rotate the motor to pump them up?

Thanks, putting motor back together today. :2thumbs:

 

[MARV]

doesnt matter as they have a spring in them to keep them extended while adjusting the rods.

if you have a mightyvac you could use that to get some oil into the internals of the lifter.

or like you said manually turn the motor over a few times to get some in there.

 

[Raywood]

doesnt matter as they have a spring in them to keep them extended while adjusting the rods.

if you have a mightyvac you could use that to get some oil into the internals of the lifter.

or like you said manually turn the motor over a few times to get some in there.

Thanks "Birthday Boy". :2thumbs:

 

[lee]

unless you have travel limiters of course. Actually, lets not go there again

 

[twowheel99]

Hey "Tech" wizards. What if my lifters are dry? No mention in the book about new or dry lifters. When I install them should I fill them with oil? Or after I get it all together rotate the motor to pump them up?

Thanks, putting motor back together today. :2thumbs:

Raywood,
I always soaked my lifters in motor oil and took a squirt can and pumped some of the same oil in the little bleed hole on the side of the lifter. I'm not saying that I was right or wrong but its what I was taught. I also used a assy. lube on the cam, lifters, etc. so I would have to worry about the first dry start until the oil & pressure built up. Maybe I do thing with overkill but I thought I would mention it to ya....
2

 

[Raywood]

Raywood,
I always soaked my lifters in motor oil and took a squirt can and pumped some of the same oil in the little bleed hole on the side of the lifter. I'm not saying that I was right or wrong but its what I was taught. I also used a assy. lube on the cam, lifters, etc. so I would have to worry about the first dry start until the oil & pressure built up. Maybe I do thing with overkill but I thought I would mention it to ya....
2

I purposely went out and bought a squirt can so I can pump them with oil and will do that. Makes sense to do this.

Thanks :2thumbs:

 

[Little-Boo]

Raywood,
I always soaked my lifters in motor oil and took a squirt can and pumped some of the same oil in the little bleed hole on the side of the lifter. I'm not saying that I was right or wrong but its what I was taught. I also used a assy. lube on the cam, lifters, etc. so I would have to worry about the first dry start until the oil & pressure built up. Maybe I do thing with overkill but I thought I would mention it to ya....
2

Not to high Jack you thread Tom, just wanted to add a little to Raywoods Motor Assembly.

Soaking the lifters in 30 weight oil for about 30 minutes (According to JIM'S LIFTER installation guide) is the way to go. Adding oil to the lifter via the bleed hole is another way both of which I have done it in the past with good results. Using Assembly lube is a must in my opinion on the cam lobes, lifters, push rod ends, rocker tips and shafts. As state above you won't have to worry about a dry start up. That is one of the reasons you change the oil after the first 50 miles, to get all that crap out of there. I also use Vaseline on the gears of the oil pump to help it prime itself quickly, however if the pump was not taken apart there is no need for that. Good luck Ray and let us know how she runs.


Carlos