9 plate vs 12 plate clutch

Energy One

knothead

Second Chance Customs
Thickest steel always goes in first....all 05 and up models start with a steel and end with a friction...9 disc come with 9 steels and 9 frictions...12 disc have 12 steel and 12 friction..

Also on 05 and up models have a anodized aluminum pressure plate so you wouldn't want a steel plate against a aluminum pressure plate.

I have took a many of 05 and up models apart because customer said my clutch sucks and I have found where they have put it together wrong or added another steel to make the stack height right and that is totally wrong.

On 04 and older have 9 frictions and 10 steels which means you start with a steel and end with a steel
 
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Coolbreezin

Active Member
Thickest steel always goes in first....all 05 and up models start with a steel and end with a friction...9 disc come with 9 steels and 9 frictions...12 disc have 12 steel and 12 friction..

04 and older have 9 frictions and 10 steels which means you start with a steel and end with a steel
Thank you kind sir. Im off to the garage!
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Ok. EnergyOne told me the same thing as Knothead did. All 24 discs soaked for 30ish hours. I checked each edge of the steels for the sharp edge and installed thickest steel first. All sharp edges towards tranny. I followed the adjustment directions (see attached). Lever feels smooth and linear in resistance. With the bike idling I hold in the lever to separate the discs for a minute or so. Lever released, and another minute of idle.
Clutch in, drop into first gear and she leaps forward then stalls.
Any ideas? I'm stumped.
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Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Ok. EnergyOne told me the same thing as Knothead did. All 24 discs soaked for 30ish hours. I checked each edge of the steels for the sharp edge and installed thickest steel first. All sharp edges towards tranny. I followed the adjustment directions (see attached). Lever feels smooth and linear in resistance. With the bike idling I hold in the lever to separate the discs for a minute or so. Lever released, and another minute of idle.
Clutch in, drop into first gear and she leaps forward then stalls.
Any ideas? I'm stumped.
View attachment 123115
Have you checked the pushrod for wear and true?
Clutch push rods can and do wear out?
I know you've changed plates, are you using a NEW throw-out bearing?
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Have you checked the pushrod for wear and true? I did clean rod and inspect the tip. Did not check to see if it was straight beyond just cleaning it.
Clutch push rods can and do wear out?
I know you've changed plates, are you using a NEW throw-out bearing? I am not. But I did clean and inspect it. Still spins freely, no noise.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Have you checked the pushrod for wear and true? I did clean rod and inspect the tip. Did not check to see if it was straight beyond just cleaning it.
Clutch push rods can and do wear out?
I know you've changed plates, are you using a NEW throw-out bearing? I am not. But I did clean and inspect it. Still spins freely, no noise.
Ok at this point you need to pop the primary cove off with the bike jacked up and watch the cluthc action as you pull the clutch cable..
Measure how far it moves. The mnaul should tell you ho wmuch is required. Be sure when you screw the rod in that it just touches the throw out bearing -- Do it with the cover off and watching the clutch side - you should eb able to see when it hits, try backing off 1/8 or 16th turn.
 

knothead

Second Chance Customs
Did you check the in and out play on your transmission mainshaft?
Did you check the main shaft nut for proper torque?
Check to make sure your basket didnt have grooves worn in it causing disc to not seperate correctly?
Clutch pushrod for wear or bent?...they can flex and cause this if they are bent ever so slightly.
Weak diaphragm spring or worn out diaphragm spring?
Check to make sure primary chain isnt to tight?

05 models and up models need to have alot of grease applied to the pushrod where it goes thru the transmission on the right side because i have seen them bind up ever so slightly causing clutch adjustment issue and in some cases a squeaking sound when you have the clutch lever pulled in and that's because of no grease or a slightly bent pushrod.

When you adjust your clutch pushrod set it exactly 1/4 of a turn from lightly touching...less clearance than that it will cause finding neutral a pain, jump when you put it in gear and clutch slippage...the clutch pushrod will grow in length when it gets hot so anything less than a 1/4 turn from lightly seated will cause the pushrod to possibly and most likely to touch the throw out bearing slightly and cause inconsistency in the clutch adjustment, burn up your throw out bearing and excessive wear on the end of your pushrod...i have set them this way for years and anyones clutch that I have done can vouch for there clutch being very satisfactory...you can find neutral at a dead idle and setting still with all the proper checks and adjustments.

Sometimes it takes me awhile to get it the way I stated above but it can be done...some harder to get right than others
 
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Coolbreezin

Active Member
I spoke to Baker tranny and he told me about the Pawl adjustment. I watched a couple of videos and went to work. He said there should be exactly equal distance of movement front and rearward of the shifter arm. It was not equal. Removed the tranny cover so I could see what I was doing. Sure enough, way out of whack. I did exactly as the videos and Baker tranny guy said. Still didnt help. The only other thing I can think of is the new ball & ramp. So Ill be taking her to Chopper City this week. Updates coming.
 

knothead

Second Chance Customs
I set the shifter pawl a little out of center and the reason I do that is because if you want to gas on it pretty good and shift you are more likely to miss a up gear if it's set in the center...i move then around a 1/16 out of center for this reason...not saying that's right but that's the racing side of me lol.
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Dave called and said it was ready to go. He did get the clutch lever to operate properly and smoothly. He was unable to test ride the bike because of back surgeries he has had over the years. I test rode the bike and it was better than new. While downshifting I was unable to below third. I came to the conclusion it must be the pawl adj. I rode it back and he adjusted the pawl thingy and had an employee go out & about for a test ride. Any questions or comments are welcome.
A very expensive upgrade. :oldwtf::whoop::cheers:

It was determined that the OEM parts had worn away enough that the new hardened pressure plate forced the spring plate concave. He told me that I should have also replaced the spring plate and the holder thingy with the 4 bolts.
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Hey all. I know yall have been concerned regarding my scooter, and I do appreciate your worrying. Dave Welch at Chopper City determined that the new hardened pressure plate was, obviously not worn but the OEM parts it mated to were. This resulted in the spring plate (I assume its called) and the thingy with the 4 bolts had worn enough to create the problem. I should have replaced those parts at the same time. So, lesson learned. He placed 4 wee small washers on the bolts to replace the worn areas on the OEM parts. He recommends I change the OEM goodies asap, but its safe to ride with the washers. Any questions or comments welcome.
As for the EZ Pull, sweeeeeet. Probably half the resistance than stock. Highly recommend it.
 

doubleAron

New Member
May I please ask where can I get this hardened steel pressure plate from. I have the 2002 bigdog pitbull and I can't find a upgraded pressure plate ANYWHERE on line.
 

doubleAron

New Member
Ok so I have a 2002 big dog pitbull with the 107 motor. I'm changing my clutches because it's impossible to get the bike in neutral when running and you have to stomp the shifter to get it in gear. So then I'm told with getting the 9 plate kit instead of the 12 that I need to replace the ball and ramp and the pressure plate but I can't find these parts ANYWHERE online. Can someone point me In the right direction plz? I'm fixn to order the 9 plate kit but I for the life of me can't find a 02 hardened pressure plate at all.
 

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
Ok so I have a 2002 big dog pitbull with the 107 motor. I'm changing my clutches because it's impossible to get the bike in neutral when running and you have to stomp the shifter to get it in gear. So then I'm told with getting the 9 plate kit instead of the 12 that I need to replace the ball and ramp and the pressure plate but I can't find these parts ANYWHERE online. Can someone point me In the right direction plz? I'm fixn to order the 9 plate kit but I for the life of me can't find a 02 hardened pressure plate at all.
What clutch do you currently have in your bike? I would be guessing Rivera Primo? If you have to stomp it to get it in gear it may be more than just your clutch pack. Bigdogpartskingpin has the ‘99 to ‘04 Energy One clutch you need.
 
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HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Ok so I have a 2002 big dog pitbull with the 107 motor. I'm changing my clutches because it's impossible to get the bike in neutral when running and you have to stomp the shifter to get it in gear. So then I'm told with getting the 9 plate kit instead of the 12 that I need to replace the ball and ramp and the pressure plate but I can't find these parts ANYWHERE online. Can someone point me In the right direction plz? I'm fixn to order the 9 plate kit but I for the life of me can't find a 02 hardened pressure plate at all.
Ck the hiem joints on ur shift rod as well. They can bind up and cause hard shifting.
 
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