1st Gear Grind
- Thread starter Cecil
- Start date
V
Guru
Not sure what you mean but guessing you mean it grinds when you go from neutral to first gear?
If so the does the bike also want to pull (try to roll forward) when in first gear and you have the clutch pulled in?
If you were to be in neutral and try to shift up in to second does it also grind or grab hard?
If yes to these I would say adjust the clutch first and then go from there.
Also does your bike have a hydrualic clutch? Has it ever had fluid added? How many miles?
Just some starter questions?
If so the does the bike also want to pull (try to roll forward) when in first gear and you have the clutch pulled in?
If you were to be in neutral and try to shift up in to second does it also grind or grab hard?
If yes to these I would say adjust the clutch first and then go from there.
Also does your bike have a hydrualic clutch? Has it ever had fluid added? How many miles?
Just some starter questions?
Here are a few points to notice about clutch bang or leading up to:
1. The big clutch basket constantly runs with the engine. When you pull the clutch lever in, the other basket may still spin with the big or; clutch-outer basket.
2. The clutch center basket; usually holds the steel plates. However, steels warp faster than the friction plates. Also, when we pull the clutch lever in, there is not a lot of gap between plates. The steel, if warp, will kiss the spinning outer basket. If there was no spin to the clutch center, it means, the clutches are fine.
3. Right now, you should understand that one basket moves, the other does not. Or else, you could never stop the back wheel. With that said, we come down to the 3rd issue:
a. We know if it is hard to find N from a dead stop, we have a clutch issue. This is the steel tagging the friction. This is where the center clutch basket continues to spin with the outer basket. Previously stated in another post, the bike might creep, the steels are that warped. One down.
b. However, being the clutch center can stop in theory, the plates rattle, bang onto each other [once again] thus; continues to keep the center basket to keep spinning some. We know that if N is found with ease, there is no need to adjust the clutch. The slack at the cable is the minor adjustment. Once that screw is initially set, you ride that gap in with the cable taking up the slack going in. This shows you that wear [down] factor at the threads of the cable. Time for a new clutch pack, if you are looking at a used bike and want to know its condition? Tell no one about that trick, bringing your price down.
c. The initial question was, "sometimes." The answer is; This is normal. Sometimes you keep the lever in long enough, the center basket stops or slows enough to eliminate the bang in. Sometimes, you need to catch yourself as to when, and how you make that noise disappear sometimes?
Personally, I am in 1st before I start the bike. Home he here does not have shebang-shebang, ever. If you can figure it out, I've stopped that move long ago. My videos point that out that subtle move; a lot! I've even torched a brand new steel plate. Measured it on a surface plate afterwards. I also show me dunking the plate in water. The video shows again; that new plate did not wrinkle on bit. And that poor thing was in a drawer, all pushed around with other parts in that same drawer. So, yes, there is a tiny, can push the feeler under it. That was how the brand new plate began the test, or this is the base starting out point of the experiment.
What this showed me was; the next experiment to keep the clutch pulled in. This kept the bike from slamming it into 1st gear at every stop. I wanted to prove some fallacy about keeping the lever in. Someone says it will burn the plates. The theory being; Heat transfer would suffer from plate to plate. It would isolate that one plate. Thus, the cooking of the steel plates. Well, to this day, I can snick 1st into N without gimping to the hospital with a torn left ankle she-sheered inside me. I she-banged too much toe jam out from under me big toe too, Doc.
1. The big clutch basket constantly runs with the engine. When you pull the clutch lever in, the other basket may still spin with the big or; clutch-outer basket.
2. The clutch center basket; usually holds the steel plates. However, steels warp faster than the friction plates. Also, when we pull the clutch lever in, there is not a lot of gap between plates. The steel, if warp, will kiss the spinning outer basket. If there was no spin to the clutch center, it means, the clutches are fine.
3. Right now, you should understand that one basket moves, the other does not. Or else, you could never stop the back wheel. With that said, we come down to the 3rd issue:
a. We know if it is hard to find N from a dead stop, we have a clutch issue. This is the steel tagging the friction. This is where the center clutch basket continues to spin with the outer basket. Previously stated in another post, the bike might creep, the steels are that warped. One down.
b. However, being the clutch center can stop in theory, the plates rattle, bang onto each other [once again] thus; continues to keep the center basket to keep spinning some. We know that if N is found with ease, there is no need to adjust the clutch. The slack at the cable is the minor adjustment. Once that screw is initially set, you ride that gap in with the cable taking up the slack going in. This shows you that wear [down] factor at the threads of the cable. Time for a new clutch pack, if you are looking at a used bike and want to know its condition? Tell no one about that trick, bringing your price down.
c. The initial question was, "sometimes." The answer is; This is normal. Sometimes you keep the lever in long enough, the center basket stops or slows enough to eliminate the bang in. Sometimes, you need to catch yourself as to when, and how you make that noise disappear sometimes?
Personally, I am in 1st before I start the bike. Home he here does not have shebang-shebang, ever. If you can figure it out, I've stopped that move long ago. My videos point that out that subtle move; a lot! I've even torched a brand new steel plate. Measured it on a surface plate afterwards. I also show me dunking the plate in water. The video shows again; that new plate did not wrinkle on bit. And that poor thing was in a drawer, all pushed around with other parts in that same drawer. So, yes, there is a tiny, can push the feeler under it. That was how the brand new plate began the test, or this is the base starting out point of the experiment.
What this showed me was; the next experiment to keep the clutch pulled in. This kept the bike from slamming it into 1st gear at every stop. I wanted to prove some fallacy about keeping the lever in. Someone says it will burn the plates. The theory being; Heat transfer would suffer from plate to plate. It would isolate that one plate. Thus, the cooking of the steel plates. Well, to this day, I can snick 1st into N without gimping to the hospital with a torn left ankle she-sheered inside me. I she-banged too much toe jam out from under me big toe too, Doc.
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
Sven,
Try again and write about Cecil's question on "1st gear grind sometimes". It doesn't sound normal to me but then again, I can't understand Sven!
Nuke
Try again and write about Cecil's question on "1st gear grind sometimes". It doesn't sound normal to me but then again, I can't understand Sven!
Nuke
Yes Roadmax.
If your lever has a tiny master that is looking like the front brake master, then yes, you have a liquid cable.Sven,
Try again and write about Cecil's question on "1st gear grind sometimes". It doesn't sound normal to me but then again, I can't understand Sven!
Nuke
If you pull the lever, can see a cable between the lever and perch housing, then yes, you have a cable style pull.
1. Sometimes = Is like saying, 'sometimes I have a broken arm.' Sometime means, not...
2... All the time = My arm is broken. So, all the time, it is broken, not some of the time, as opposed to...
3... Most of the time = He is not saying all or most of the time. He is saying, "occasionally it happens." My arm is not broken. Occasionally, sometimes, it grinds, not all of the time, not most of the time.
If pregnant, am not pregnant most of the time, some of the time, or all of the time?
If blood is running thru the veins, is it some, most, or all that can be gathered by the OP. Key word has to narrow it down to, 'sometimes' she-bangs.
Make sense now?
When they talk about 'synchromesh transmissions,' it has a thin ring that spins in between the gears on one shaft. It more or less is a cutout of the gear [dog] that is about to be, 3-stooges slapped, you stab 1st gear.
With the synchro-ring, it acts like a cushion, plus a silencer all rolled up in one. The old adage, 'yeah, go grind me a pound,' was one hearing an old truck catch 1st or reverse, (R). This was before the invention of the syn ring. This grinding is more or less, go stick your finger in a fan blade, see what happens? That is one gear running, now, jump rope, you run into it, miss the blade, miss the rope swing, all double dutch. Get it?
That synchro stepped up/slowed down, the free rolling gears on the shafts. Having that sync ring become the mediator between you pushing down on that corvette 6-speed's pedal, no matter how you look at it, one shaft is stopped, one shaft keeps rolling in the trans.
We have a formula 1 transmission. We have a V-8 sort of same old transmission, it is so bulletproof; faster than a synchro. Synchro was addressed for the doorslammers. Those squids were not savvy to the gear grind. They could not time all that throw from N to 1st, or that H pattern on the floor.
Cars have linkage to work two shafts back and forth. We have instant gear change with one shaft at the foot. You can't move as a human, meaning, you'll never miss a shift no matter how fast your reflexes are. The trans is that positive. The downside to a bike's gear noise is not the bike's bulletproof design. It is a complaint by some human.
The answer was addressed on my end. The story goes; If you want the noise to never happen again to bulletproof, the toe is to jam it in 1st before you turn the key on. Kill the hours at the lights waiting, shut her down. Is she in first? Is there a grind now, engine off, eyes aimed in the rear view mirror is a waiting game at the starter button.
Not a thing I can do about it, guy ...
:Yawn:
With the synchro-ring, it acts like a cushion, plus a silencer all rolled up in one. The old adage, 'yeah, go grind me a pound,' was one hearing an old truck catch 1st or reverse, (R). This was before the invention of the syn ring. This grinding is more or less, go stick your finger in a fan blade, see what happens? That is one gear running, now, jump rope, you run into it, miss the blade, miss the rope swing, all double dutch. Get it?
That synchro stepped up/slowed down, the free rolling gears on the shafts. Having that sync ring become the mediator between you pushing down on that corvette 6-speed's pedal, no matter how you look at it, one shaft is stopped, one shaft keeps rolling in the trans.
We have a formula 1 transmission. We have a V-8 sort of same old transmission, it is so bulletproof; faster than a synchro. Synchro was addressed for the doorslammers. Those squids were not savvy to the gear grind. They could not time all that throw from N to 1st, or that H pattern on the floor.
Cars have linkage to work two shafts back and forth. We have instant gear change with one shaft at the foot. You can't move as a human, meaning, you'll never miss a shift no matter how fast your reflexes are. The trans is that positive. The downside to a bike's gear noise is not the bike's bulletproof design. It is a complaint by some human.
The answer was addressed on my end. The story goes; If you want the noise to never happen again to bulletproof, the toe is to jam it in 1st before you turn the key on. Kill the hours at the lights waiting, shut her down. Is she in first? Is there a grind now, engine off, eyes aimed in the rear view mirror is a waiting game at the starter button.
Not a thing I can do about it, guy ...
:Yawn: