09 Bagger issue(s)

[Mastiff Rider64]

Hi guys and girls, I was wondering if I could pick your brain a bit. I have a 09 Bagger and about two months ago I got the dreaded check engine light. I bought a laptop put Protune-II software on it and read my codes. I found that the only code I was reading was the Rear Adaptive Limit Max P0173. Now what the bike did before the check engine light come on. After a day of riding, with stopping for lunch and some shopping up in the mountains of N.C. at Lake Lure, on the way home I had noticed the oil light flickering a bit, never staying on for more than 2 seconds. I had just did an oil change the night before the ride. But as I turned off a 4 lane highway on to a side street one block away from my house I gave it a bit of gas and the bike hesitated and coughed thru the EFI system and the light came on. Any time I tried to give it gas more than 50 percent throttle the bike died, kinda like a weed eater when you choke it while running. and if I let off the throttle the bike would come back to life and start running. So, I get the bike home, call a shop after I found my code and talked to Mr. Wright and Andy that use to work at Big Dog. After telling Andy what happened and the code, I had him explain it to me. I took my bike to a repair shop that use to be a BIG Dog dealer. Well I told them what code I had and the previous codes also which I was told was from probably earlier this year when I had the bike worked over and had parts chromed, diamond heads and powder coating done to the heads and all. After 2 weeks from hearing nothing from the shop I called them. The mechanic told me that he didn't come up with the same codes that he got a bad O2 sensor and a high air temp code. So, finally after another 2 weeks I get the call that they changed the O2 sensor, tested the bike and looked it over and he rode the bike no problems come get it. So when i get there my bill is 300 dollars and I'm on my way home. Well on the way home I am going down a hill and I go past 50 percent throttle and the bike dies. Another way to describe it is when your are in your car and speeding and you hit the top speed the computer will let you go before killing the gas to the engine. But the check engine light dont come on, so I think I'm out of gas to a degree cause when I got stopped by a red light, the bike cut off. I waited til it turned green, cranked the bike and stopped at the first gas station about 300 ft down the rode. Took my gas cap off and wow its full of gas??? I crank the bike and drove home with not another issue. I mentioned it to the mechanic the next day as I'm dropping my other bike off. he said the motor was probably just cold and not warmed up. Really? Hmmmm. So, Last weekend on Saturday my girlfriend and I are out riding and we are on a 4 lane highway, I turn off of it and go to get into the throttle and low and behold it hesitates, coughs thru the EFI and boom check engine light. Now I start to realize after a few miles and a few stop lights later that I have no power past 3000 RPM's in first, drops to 2600 in 2cd, 2000 in 3rd, about 1800 in 4th. I was a little further from home so I got to actually pay attention to things this time. Well about a mile from home and I'm sitting at a red light and when it turns green, I kinda get on the throttle and the bike hesitates a second and then I'm over 3000 RPM's and the bike is running fine. By the time I got home the check engine light is off. Check the codes no codes no past codes???? Sunday went riding again this time to Ceaser's Head in S.C. almost a straight shot for me, mainly one road 42 miles of 2 lanes in the country. @0 miles into it bike had run fine no issues. Then I went to pass a car on an up hill grade and when I down shifted and rolled the throttle it starts hesitating and then losing power and boom check engine light. Stopped at first gas station 12 more miles down the road got gas and started the bike and kept on going, 2 miles down the road check engine light goes off and bike runs fine. On the way home 5 miles from home I turn on to a 2 land road go to get into throttle check engine light again no power past 50 percent throttle or above earlier mentioned RPM's. As I'm going down a 4 lane highway I get the throttle to the point it starts acting up and played with it there a few seconds then the bike cleared up check engine light went off and boom off we go. Get home no codes no past codes.

So what do ya''ll think the actual issue could be?
This is the codes I got before taking the bike to the shop on 8-9-19. They had it 4 weeks and said they got a bad O2 sensor code and changed the O2 sensor.

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

And yes, I know to stay on the 4 lane highways and not turn off them. lol

 

[pknowles]

Sounds like you are going into the 'limp home mode" for some reason. I changed the temp sensor and stopped my problem??

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

Ok, where is the temp sensor at, and what the hell is a limp home mode. Even tho that is what the bike is doing....liming home...lol

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

Found it in the manual, that thing looks like a pain in the ass to get out without disassembling the whole intake. You would nt still have a part number or know where to get one at would you?

 

[Jwooky]

The adaptive limit means the VFI controller is trying to reach stoich air fuel balance and is hitting its fuel limit trying. BDM OEM VFI controllers have a 20% fuel increase limit to be EPA compliant.

In other words it’s likely trying to add more fuel and it can’t for some reason. I’ve ran into this with clogged injectors, bad fuel pumps, wiring etc.

You will have to do some analysis to determine what exactly is causing the issue.

You can remove the injectors and through protune active them to see the fuel spray pattern. You can hook up a fuel pressure gauge and ensure you always have 55-60psi.

It’s also possible to have wiring issues to injectors or O2 for example.

It’s highly unlikely you have a bad O2. They are very robust and would rarely fail on a low mileage bike.

You have a long list of historical faults. Some could be due to battery resets etc. I would clear all your faults and take some short local rides and see what the real faults that reoccur are.

You will have to go through some process to find the root of the issue.

Trying to guess what the issue is with the little info you have , will be just that a guess.

Don’t just though random parts at it like your “mechanic” or you will ge the same results.

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

The bike only has 4200 miles on it, and everything is stock except supertrapp slip ons. The injectors are new, they were replaced in April of this year. Fuel pump is very loud tho. I have after market radio and an amp with loud speaker and even turned up you can hear the fuel pump at lower speeds. Ill try and do a video on how loud the fuel pump actually is tho. Ill have the shop check the fuel pressure tho, and i was already planning on replacing fuel pump and regulator this month. And the thing that indicates low fuel in the tank cause i have yet to see the gas gauge come on while riding. I usually fill up based on how loud the fuel pump sounds.

 

[knothead]

Well i bet ur fuel pump isnt doing what jwooky says it needs to....a noisy pump is a weak pump pressure wise without a doubt...you diffently need a new pump and go from there

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

Knothead, I've been waiting for it to crap out a while now. This is the first fuel injected bike I've owned and the pump was loud when I bought it last year in Sept. Some have said your going to hear a little hummm, but its not so little anymore. Its only gotten louder the more miles I put on it. And I just ordered the Primary gasket set from Big Dog cause I just noticed my Primary is leaking between the outer and inner. So, I'm going to have the shop pull the whole Primary off outer and inner and replace all the o-rings and maybe even the starter cause this was a Florida bike and the pitting on the starter and the fact that the rubber coating on the main wire from the solenoid to the starter is bare except the electrical tape i put on it. But I figure that it being 10 years old and when i bought it it only had 3200 miles on it that gaskets, sensors, fuel pump and other things need replacing. I want to replace this factory VFi with the unlocked one, and maybe put a 585 cam and 640 springs and Tp roller rockers, and the S&S single bore air filter on it. not to mention a different set of pipes to really set it off. But until I can get it to run correctly stock there is no point in adding it could be's to the equation.

 

[knothead]

Yeah fix what needs fixing before adding new stuff....jwooky knows these fuel injected systems...run the test and verify plus the new pump and you should be back in business soon...and yes i know how florida is on a bike i bought a 04 ridgeback from yulee florida 2 years ago...damn salt is hell on them

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

Yeah fix what needs fixing before adding new stuff....jwooky knows these fuel injected systems...run the test and verify plus the new pump and you should be back in business soon...and yes i know how florida is on a bike i bought a 04 ridgeback from yulee florida 2 years ago...damn salt is hell on them

I found an old thread that has the pump part numbers and stuff, but I have yet to find the replacement o-ring kit with the grommets and triangle grommets and all that. Also I seen where there was discussion on the in tank filters only being 30 micron and letting some trash thru and plugging injectors. I found a S&S instruction sheet on the EFI fuel pumps that says a 10 micron inline fuel filter is recommended, so I'm going to call VE Peterson and get the stuff ordered that he can get, pump, regulator, in tank filter and maybe this Walbro 10 micron filter Part number 125-199. Then maybe talk to Donna and see if they have the o-ring kit and grommets and things needed to do this.

 

[knothead]

I found an old thread that has the pump part numbers and stuff, but I have yet to find the replacement o-ring kit with the grommets and triangle grommets and all that. Also I seen where there was discussion on the in tank filters only being 30 micron and letting some trash thru and plugging injectors. I found a S&S instruction sheet on the EFI fuel pumps that says a 10 micron inline fuel filter is recommended, so I'm going to call VE Peterson and get the stuff ordered that he can get, pump, regulator, in tank filter and maybe this Walbro 10 micron filter Part number 125-199. Then maybe talk to Donna and see if they have the o-ring kit and grommets and things needed to do this.

Dont hold me to this but i think walbro has most of it like pump, filter and etc...orings and stuff i dont know but i bet Donna can help u on that...@41bigdawg may be able to help u on this also

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

Dont hold me to this but i think walbro has most of it like pump, filter and etc...orings and stuff i dont know but i bet Donna can help u on that...@41bigdawg may be able to help u on this also

Thank you I'll probably hit them up tomorrow. I'm actually off the next 2 days and got to put a few pictures of some mods I made to my harbor freight lift up, and the video of my fuel pump also, then get everything ordered and hopefully here by Friday before work cause thats when the Mastiff will be done at the shop and I'll need to take the Bulldog back up there with all the parts when picking up the Mastiff. That way they can get started on it again.

 

[41bigdawg]

I found an old thread that has the pump part numbers and stuff, but I have yet to find the replacement o-ring kit with the grommets and triangle grommets and all that. Also I seen where there was discussion on the in tank filters only being 30 micron and letting some trash thru and plugging injectors. I found a S&S instruction sheet on the EFI fuel pumps that says a 10 micron inline fuel filter is recommended, so I'm going to call VE Peterson and get the stuff ordered that he can get, pump, regulator, in tank filter and maybe this Walbro 10 micron filter Part number 125-199. Then maybe talk to Donna and see if they have the o-ring kit and grommets and things needed to do this.

That pump should not be so loud, I can't even hear mine after it primes before start. Definitely put a gauge on it and check the pressure.

I checked with Eric at HDM and he doesn't have the o-rings but is going to do some research for us. S&S has all of the parts you need for the system but they are spendy.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

That pump should not be so loud, I can't even hear mine after it primes before start. Definitely put a gauge on it and check the pressure.

I checked with Eric at HDM and he doesn't have the o-rings but is going to do some research for us. S&S has all of the parts you need for the system but they are spendy.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Thank you for check on that and the help. I had found that thread from a while back and someone had mentioned a place or person VE Peterson. It said they are a walbro supplier or dealer and could get all the parts except o-rings and grommets..Id also like to find the thermistor for the fuel level if you happen to know a part number or somewhere to get it.

 

[Jwooky]

The thermistor is a S&S part and is available through them.

Are you referring to the access plate O ring? (#42) If so, that was a BDM part, as well as the grommet for the wire pass through.

I have not been able to find anyone who has them including HDM and WSW. I can tell you I have reused mine 5 or 6 times with no issue.

The other option is to buy O ring cord stock and make one. You just need to measure the section diameter and cut to length and glue ends with super glue. This actually works very well and is done often commercially.

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

The thermistor is a S&S part and is available through them.

Are you referring to the access plate O ring? (#42) If so, that was a BDM part, as well as the grommet for the wire pass through.

I have not been able to find anyone who has them including HDM and WSW. I can tell you I have reused mine 5 or 6 times with no issue.

The other option is to buy O ring cord stock and make one. You just need to measure the section diameter and cut to length and glue ends with super glue. This actually works very well and is done often commercially.

View attachment 68167

Yeah I am talking about #42. I was on WSW website and he has the o-ring kit listed for one price and a whole fuel pump kit listed for another price that shows the grommets included. But I'm not wanting to spend 569.00 for the whole kit when I have found the pump, regulator, in tank sock for 165.00. I was just hoping to find the thermistor, grommets and o-ring separately to come out better on price. Which I don't mind reusing the grommets and stuff. And I'm sure the shop doing the work can make the o-ring if they had to, just wanted to take everything they would need with me. Cause it looks as tho I'm going to have the fuel pump replaced, themp sensor, all inner and outer o-rings on primary changed out and while the starter is loose they are going to go ahead and replace it also. hopefully the more I can take with me the less the bill will be. lol. But in all honesty I just want the bike dependable and rideable for the remainder of the season.