04 chopper, bad ignition?

[Moespeeds]

2004 chopper, no spark. When I hit RUN I get a red light on the thunderheart module for about 10 seconds, then it goes out. On the wires going down to the cam sensor, I have 12v on the red wire, and 5v on the green. I'm getting 12v at the coil, but I'm guessing the cam sensor isn't firing it. Brand new cam sensor and coil, battery checks out and load tested, brand new EHC/daughterboard. What do you think, bad ignition? Problem was intermittent, but now it's terminal.

 

[DRBarnhart]

When I hit RUN I get a red light on the thunderheart module for about 10 seconds, then it goes out.

Is the ignition module still getting 12V even after its light goes out? Are there any fault lights on the EHC after the ignition module light goes out? Does the ignition module light blink as the bike turns over?

On the wires going down to the cam sensor, I have 12v on the red wire, and 5v on the green.

I'm not sure that the 5V reading means much. I wrote this in another post about how to check the cam sensor:

1. Disconnect the cam sensor from the ignition module.
2. Take out your trusty multimeter and set it to the RX1 scale.
3. Now while touching the sensor backing plate with the negative meter lead touch the positive meter lead on each of the three wires of the sensor connector (red, black, & green). If you get continuity from the backing plate to any of them the sensor is bad.

If it passes the first test...
1. With your meter still at the same settings touch the positive meter lead to the green wire and the negative meter lead to the black wire. If you get an "open" it's good.
2. Then take the positive meter lead and touch the black sensor wire while touching the negative meter lead to the green wire. In this case an "open" is bad. A reading somewhere around 300 - 750 Kohms is what you're looking for.

I'm getting 12v at the coil, but I'm guessing the cam sensor isn't firing it.

Keep in mind that the ignition module is what "fires" the coil, the cam sensor is just input to the module.

Brand new cam sensor and coil,...

Did these check bad or was this shotgunning parts? Just wondering...

What do you think, bad ignition? Problem was intermittent, but now it's terminal.

"Terminal" problems are usually a lot easier to fix than "intermittent" ones! Bottom line, if the cam sensor and its wiring check out and the coil and its wiring (including spark plugs and wires) check out then the iginition module is bad.

Just my :zz2cents:

Dennis

PS Check the wiring too. I helped one gentleman find a wire that had pulled out of a connector... Just a thought.

 

[Moespeeds]

Thanks Dennis. Owner broke down last week, but the bike was running fine when I got there. I couldn't repeat the problem after some long test rides. I guessed either cam sensor or coil, so he opted to replace both for peace of mind. Unfortunately it looks like I was wrong and it was the ignition. Cam sensor checks out fine, (and it's brand new!)TH module is getting 12v. No fault lights that I saw but I will double check that. I don't have the bike right now but I'm gonna have him check the TH light while cranking, but I'm 90% sure it wasn't lit, I would have noticed while testing it last night. Thanks!

 

[Moespeeds]

No light while cranking.

 

[Trashman]

Moespeed, I had a simular problem a couple weeks ago. Problem turned out to be the connection under the fuel tank that goes to the right hand controls. There is a troubleshooting section in the manual, under electrical, to assist in isolating the problem from the connector back to the EHC or Ignition Module, or from the connection forward to the R/H controls. My problem turned out to be a bad connection on the pin that went to the run switch. I cleaned the contacts with electro contact cleaner, pried up a little on the female side of the connector (run switch pin), packed the connector with dialectric grease and NO more problems.

 

[chacha]

Moe - if the ignition LED initially lights and is not lighting while cranking and the cam sensor in the nosecone is good, then the signal is getting grounded before getting to the ignition. Could have a frayed line (probably green) between the two.

Good luck.