Thinking about selling my Baker open primary

Mikeinjersey said:

My Considering you hear a change in noise when you engage/disengage the clutch, I would focus on that symptom. Bearings like to make different noises when pressure changes light or heavy. Possibly get a stethoscope to help you locate the noise. When is the last time you changed your trans fluid? Clutch in (no noise and input shaft not turning) and change in pressure could make the throw-out bearing misbehave. Yes, defective outer bearing support is also involved in the drive train.
Spitball: did your outer support go on easy? Possible trans alignment?

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Yeah I didn't even think about that Mike and I actually have a stethoscope just for that and a pair of chassis ears As well. I've been a little scatterbrained lately lol. I'm gonna check the output shaft and input shaft nuts and make sure they're torque to spec and Replace that bearing Then I will reassemble it adjust the clutch and see where we're at then. I checked To make sure the clutch fiber and disks were not loose as Knot suggested and they feel good No excessive play. The clutch basket and center hub look like brand new no wear at all. also All the other stuff everyone has suggested and everything checks out good. The Outer support slipped right on there no pushing pulling prying nothing just slips right on.
I don't know if you Remember Me or not Mike but I've talked to you a few times on the phone and you've helped me out I appreciate that very much
Lew

Mickmorris said:

I do apologize for my input earlier in this thread when you mentioned the noise starting to be noticeable. I assumed normal break-in for the primary. However as stated by others not being able to hear what you hear makes diagnosis complicated. My BDL makes a bit of noise. Not rattling however & I’ve had it completely apart a couple times for service. I really hope you get it figured out. Looks great on your bike! Best of Luck!

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No apologies necessary Mike.
You tried to help me out and that's what matters most to me.
It's like Knot said it's very hard to diagnose something when you can't see it can't touch it and can't hear it. We all make mistakes unintentionally .I mean Look at the fiasco I've created here.
Lew.

Steven Proctor said:

Yes, you don't mind posting the part number for the belt, that would be greatly appreciated.

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Steve I called Baker Drivetrain yesterday to try to get a bearing # For my outer bearing support I also asked about a belt for these if they could give me a # Or a different manufacturing # for a Replacement thinking maybe they had something else Besides the Baker belt #. James told me he would investigate and call me back which he did pretty much immediately . He gave me the bearing # 6012-2RS-c3 Which they don't have one in stock but I can get it pretty much anywhere. The Bando belt #( Bando STS S14M 1120 ) I gave you the other day will work just fine and probably cheaper but James told me he actually Found two of those belts left in stock But not listed in inventory so now that they've found them they probably won't last long. the part # 730600 price $325.75 each
good luck On whichever brand you decide to buy
Lew

Knot I just found this I wonder if it has something to do with it. Mine is an 09 and maybe it just isn't releasing all the way and mine didn't come with it.

knothead said:

What that is is a easy pull ball and ramp...just makes the clutch lever softer to pull...it also make the clutch adjustment easier....that shouldn't have nothing to do with the rattle but I do like the easy pull ball and ramp. I would install it if it was me cause it is way smoother

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Yeah, like I said it didn’t come in the kit that I got. And it says for the clutch to disengage properly that after 2008, it must be installed.That’s why I was kind of questioning it.
The guy that had the bike before me must have installed one because mine is way easy to pull and way smooth.
Guess I’m just grabbing at straws because this thing has got me stumped. We’ll see tomorrow after I check the torque andchange the bearing and reassemble it.

Well the bearing I had to order They didn't have it in stock and it hasn't came in So I'm pretty much at a standstill right now. After I got the Shop warmed up and the outer bearing support warmed up above freezing like it was it smoothed right out No more feel of a flat spot so it had to have been that grease just too cold. I'm going to replace it anyway because it has a little grease seeping out of it On the backside. One of my riding buddies stopped by Yesterday for a visit that has a 05 big dog Ridgeback. He told me he has a friend that has a K9 that Lives like 20 miles from where I live ( I was Extremely surprised to find out it is somebody that I know and didn't even know he had a big dog. I have ridden with him before but he was always on an older road king with a Kurata Open primary Man you wanna talk about something that rattles loud ( good God ) Anyway he said that he has a Baker Open primary on his K9. So he gave him a call and we wound up driving up there and he started up the K9 and I listened to it and it sounds exactly like mine Maybe just a tad louder. So now I'm really confused!!!. So when I got home I called Baker Drivetrain and spend About an hours talking to them on the phone and they're telling me that all open primaries Have clutch rattle but theirs was one of the quietest on the market . They're also telling me that what I'm hearing is what's known as neutral rattle. In other words the clutch fibers Fingers and the clutch basket grooves have a 0.015 clearance and when you're idling with the clutch out/ Friction Plates and fibers engaged You have that 15 thousandths play and the center Hub and a clutch basket is rocking back and forth as the motor lopes along and that's what I'm hearing according to Baker. He also gave me a bunch of things to check to make sure We're dealing with clutch noise and not something else. 1 while I had the clutch pack pulled apart Take a socket and a drill and spin the input shaft to eliminate any Possible noise in the transmission which I did and it's smooth and quiet. 2 then put the clutch pack back together and move the Basket hub back and forth and you can hear and see said 15 thousands clearance moving back and forth inside of the basket and hear it click when the fibers Fingers make contact with the clutch hub and it does. 3 Pull the clutch in and it doesn't make the noise anymore hence the fibers are moving Freely so you don't hear them making contact with the clutch basket And it doesn't. 4 grabbed a 0.015 Shim and slip it in there Between the fiber fingers and basket lands and it Should just barely fits in there and it does. So Just for shits and giggles I took it back apart went and got my clutch pack from my closed primary took them over to the part's cleaner cleaned all the oil off dried them out and reassembled it with those in there and tried the same thing with almost the exact same results The clearance was just a hair more than the new set of Energy one fibers that came with the open primary. He also said the amount of drivetrain play you have / gear clearance in the transmission will also affect how loud it is. The Looser the Drivetrain Play the Quieter it is. The tighter the drivetrain play the louder it is. I didn't quite understand his reasoning there But after reasoning it through I get it . I'm sure Baker knows what they're talking about so I let it go at that.

I don't know guys i'm at a loss here. When the bearing comes in I'll get that installed Recheck my input And output shaft Nuts for torque Reassemble everything and see where I'm at.

PapaStein said:

Well dude, a simple “no I couldn’t let it go for that” would have been sufficient and required much less effort. I was just throwing it out there and did not intend it to be an insult. Just like you said opinions be like assholes and everybody got one, but that don’t mean you gotta be one.

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SORRY PapaStein Didn't mean to be an asshole. That was not my intentions at all.

Th3InfamousI said:

You posted earlier about your hub nut @ 80 ft/lbs. There's no difference with that open primary than what we're all doing on the closed setup with the hub nut at 120-140 ft lbs. On the closed primaries that is where you notice it first clutch rattling when you pull the lever.

Not saying your hub nut is loose at 80, but you might take some slack out there.

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I just picked up the new bearing this morning for the outer bearing support.
I was just going by the factory spec of what the torque should be. I didn't know that it had been raised I Thank you for the information. I measured my clutch pack overall stack height which was in spec and I also measured the fiber stack height Separately which is also in spec According to Baker. They also told me they know the guy that I bought this Open Primary Setup from and the only part For the kit he did not have was the clutch pack. I called the guy that I bought it from and he said yes he had used the clutch pack in one of his bikes and later on replaced it With an Energy One clutch pack he got from Baker When he was ready to sell the kit. Baker Says it will work just fine but the synchronous belt drive clutch pack has got tighter tolerances which is considerably quieter. So I believe I'm going to go ahead and order it and put that in there And hopefully it's quieter.

Th3InfamousI said:

Baker is claiming their clutch disc are manufactured at a higher tolerance than Energy One? Not going to argue but Energy One is top of the class, so I find that a hard to believe but I suppose it's possible. Not sure who makes Baker's clutch discs but there's not too many companies out there I would imagine.

@knothead- did you put in new clutch discs on Dave's? I know you wouldn't have bought Baker's discs

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Baker's 9 disk clutch packs are made by Energy One. Their synchronous belt drive clutch pack is actually a 11 disk. They're not saying who makes the 11 disk But they are claiming they are virtually silent And will stand up to 120 foot pounds .
I don't know guys I'm at a loss. I know one thing I have learned a hell of a lot about Motorcycle clutch packs over the last couple of days LOL
I'm going to reassemble it now that I have the new bearing in readjust the clutch and see where we're at from there.