You should have a Fleet Plan!!!!
Your Hound and the Battery Tender.
- Thread starter KnotSo
- Start date
Jersey James
Jersey James
I don't really think it makes a difference. I have one tender for each bike, and keep the same one hooked up to the same bike. Since they all plug into the same electrical panel, I color coded mine to match the color of the bike, that it belongs too.
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
:2thumbs: Thanks for the info. I like your setup. I will be keeping my Dog on a Genius charger from now on out. I'll have to work on setting up something for the other bikes.
Unlshd
Member
I hook my dog up to a CTEK Multi US 3300 charger if it sits for more than 3 days. So far my 2nd battery is holding after two years. I will intall one of the CTEK Comfort Connect Indicator Eyelets when I start the search for my electrical gremlins. http://smartercharger.com/accessories/
Jim
Jim
Last edited:
jjarkys
Active Member
New battery in September 2012. Been on Schumacher tender 24/7 unless I'm riding it. Sometimes weeks at a time between rides (mainly in winter). I've had 0 issues with it. I also pay close attention to my cruising rpm after reading several posts here about 2800 rpm required for extended period to properly charge battery. It hasn't failed me yet.
Crap, I shouldn't have said that !
Crap, I shouldn't have said that !
bearman
Active Member
My AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery isn't supposed to be charged below 2 amps and my tender is 1.5 amps max, so I only charge it (with 10amp charger) when it won't start (which has been never) or at start of riding season. It has set up for 4 months and still started right up.
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
I have a Genius 1100 and Battery Tender Jr Plus and each only charge at 1.1 and 1.25 amps respectfully. I charge every motorcycle battery I own with these including the Braille AGM B2015 and haven't had any issues. I probably need to look into the 2 amp min charger rating because I see on the Braille site their chargers start at 2 amps.
Thanks for the info
Thanks for the info
C00lHandLuke
Active Member
I chose when I think about it because up until recent history that's the only time I used it. For the last several weeks I have really made a conscious effort to have it on there all of the time. I have never really had a problem with it the first time I start it, but because I do not have compression releases it sometimes takes all the juice it has for the first start. Being a bar hopper, after I start it I drive straight to the nearest bar. Therefore I don't give it enough time to recharge. So when I leave the first bar going to the next one it's all hope.
That 107 is sometimes hard to turn over without compression releases. So from the few problems I've had and what the majority of people are saying, I will definitely keep mine on the tender.
That 107 is sometimes hard to turn over without compression releases. So from the few problems I've had and what the majority of people are saying, I will definitely keep mine on the tender.
bearman
Active Member
Wet cell batteries can loose performance and life if not charged every 3 months. Notice I didn't say "will", I said "can", I have had car and boat batteries last for years that only got used/charged a couple times a year, your milage may vary.
The AGM batteries are supposed to retain something like 90% of their starting power after sitting for a year, while a wet battery will be down to something like 50 or 60%. Now this is with out anything connected or drawing it down. Our EHCs draw something but it's not much. My AGM doesn't start any better than the old wet Harley battery I replaced, but it will turn it over longer when it doesn't start.
The AGM batteries are supposed to retain something like 90% of their starting power after sitting for a year, while a wet battery will be down to something like 50 or 60%. Now this is with out anything connected or drawing it down. Our EHCs draw something but it's not much. My AGM doesn't start any better than the old wet Harley battery I replaced, but it will turn it over longer when it doesn't start.
What does your tender read? 1.2a or 1.5a?
What power is your battery? 12v14a?
What happens next is move the decimal point to the right and you have 1.4a
Watt happens next is a tender is (alleged?) maxed at 1.2a and your 14a needs at least a 1.4a to bring it up to said full power.
Watt happens next is the tender detunes the battery down to 1.2a is a go and check the reading of the charger.
CTEK Battery Chargers - The World's Smarter Battery Charger
I am not pushing product. It is more a theory read and see if it makes sense about how well a [computer applied] type bike needs to be well charged meaning. This type runs up to 14a+ and shuts off, not hums along @13.5v is the tag to read on that tender and there detuning the battery twofold.
Make mechanical sense electrically speaking?
What power is your battery? 12v14a?
What happens next is move the decimal point to the right and you have 1.4a
Watt happens next is a tender is (alleged?) maxed at 1.2a and your 14a needs at least a 1.4a to bring it up to said full power.
Watt happens next is the tender detunes the battery down to 1.2a is a go and check the reading of the charger.
CTEK Battery Chargers - The World's Smarter Battery Charger
I am not pushing product. It is more a theory read and see if it makes sense about how well a [computer applied] type bike needs to be well charged meaning. This type runs up to 14a+ and shuts off, not hums along @13.5v is the tag to read on that tender and there detuning the battery twofold.
Make mechanical sense electrically speaking?
bearman
Active Member
Does not make sense to me.
Please provide information for verifying this statement.