EFI: Thelixiripoff Explained 101.1

Sven

Well-Known Member
Okay, it was suggested I start a thread. This is more a study on how to understand fuel injection, a 4-stroke and WATT ever else pops up. This is the abstract. Because old fashion englishit is too crude and ancient for FI, I had to develop how to communicate to the bike and myself, via the factory shop manual (FSM).

And because FI is so complex, so easy to understand, I have to butcher the english just so I can :job: you off before I get jerked off, listening to the so called experts.

This is like a race, passing year ass is. One guy at a time, I ask, watt does this do? I never get an answer. I weed out the experts. They get pissed at the book. I am just the messenger. And because FI and the carb are too complex, you are on line asking what did I just do? I helped! Not in your way... 2Bad is now my name! All the bad come forward. Show me yourshit.

Guys will bait your hook and throw it in the water, there you go... yOu know how to fish says you. If you just throw in your post, make it work, we would not be here. This is a 3 step process is my abstract. I am tying your hook, crushing your barb, building the back of that hook all the way down around the spool. Now you know how to tie a knot, and here come the 3gaymigos in all fashions:

The Ultimate SetuPENned:

1. The backing is the spool filled with = 6lbs.
2. The shock line to cast hard, so the 6 does not break with the bullet sinker, we step it up to = 8lbs.
3. The leader line; needs to break off. What is left is the shock line, sinker, and swivel still there. What was caught and lost is a hook, grub, is = 4lb test line(s).

So, 3 is the think. Die remembering this:

1. Fuel.
2. Spark.
3. Compression.

And that says; "DO I HAVE???"... is you on the side of the road. It does not matter a carb or an FI bike. I am no expert on FI by any means. There are your 3 basics. From there, the variables are endless.

Let us move on to a wire variable. The abstract in the book is short and sweet. They use their english and now you read that shit, you are confused as hell, no? Hell no! Here is the easy part one more time. There are 19 3-packs [of variables] I can rattle off. Here are just a few. You'll find the 3-packs, do pack a wallop when diagnosing the bike. Here again, you are to die knowing your 3 wire variables this time. There are no other moves. This is another loop. Same loop as you see with the pole casting... Sans the variables of knots. Which knot will wiz thru thoseylets calls it.

Same idea as the carb screw calls it. That says, does my knot run smooth down the eyes, Faster than your knot? Say I twisted the correct knot at the two lines. Sort of the difference between a man0 knot and your knothe way you sea the variables of choice down those pole eyelets. It is like saying; Are you going to use that knot in a casting tournamenthen expect to win?

The 3wV are:

1. Connectors not connected = Think lamp socket. Is it plugged in?
2. Wire out of connector = Think of one side of the socket holder has a dropped wire off the switch.
3. Short to ground = Think of a complete loop to ground does not tie all the loops together. Something is broken like the filament. Something burned out like the contact of the switch [sensor] is keyputt.

These are your 3 Wire Variables. They are like the 3gaymigos. Somewhat how that abstract was thought up by someone here using that word. I can use anything to explain the loop you cannot get out of. These are the laws of the bike/car/you name it. The experts will tell you their bike is not in common with other bikes. That will be where they come in and dispute the FSM.

Now, here is where we get complex as all getup. Here is where your posts come in. I am going to begin with the Ultimate basic, no other way to hit bottom. This won is where you eat the experts and their way of explaining it. Bring in that number... This is all about argument of the Ultimate we Pen it here too:

1. 14.7 PSI
2. Fuel.
3. Air.

When there is no cam change, no exhaust, air cleaner, etc.,meaning, back on a stock bike, we just port a head, period; This effect is like waxing a car. The smooth finish glides the polishing rag faster over the paint. You do sort of grasp that smoother, faster slide across the finish, right?

Well, to keep the abstract so absolute like the 3wV, the 3gaymigos, the AFRange call it, did not the same event happen?; but in a faster way of moving the same number into the chamber? If you more air me, you are going to lose. This is a N/A (normally aspirated) engine.

So with this intro, have I established enough concept to follow along FI yet or should I give it up... Use all calls the ball. Thishit is too complex just to mess with that air screw >> If you only knew. :D

I am putting an AFR meter thru it's paces and then filming data to witness the event change. It is one mod at a time. The rides are one wire loop meguyveered on the bike, and now head out for the test run.

You asked what I ride? A wired up FI test mule. Why? To figure out fallacy spoken by the experts. HA!

Thelixiripoff: Comes later. First the basics. This is; be careful what you buy. YOU can either listen or eat crow later. This is the FSM speaking, not me. I'm not in the dark, gentlemen/ladies. :hi:
 

pknowles

RETIRED
Okay, it was suggested I start a thread. This is more a study on how to understand fuel injection, a 4-stroke and WATT ever else pops up. This is the abstract. Because old fashion englishit is too crude and ancient for FI, I had to develop how to communicate to the bike and myself, via the factory shop manual (FSM).

And because FI is so complex, so easy to understand, I have to butcher the english just so I can :job: you off before I get jerked off, listening to the so called experts.

This is like a race, passing year ass is. One guy at a time, I ask, watt does this do? I never get an answer. I weed out the experts. They get pissed at the book. I am just the messenger. And because FI and the carb are too complex, you are on line asking what did I just do? I helped! Not in your way... 2Bad is now my name! All the bad come forward. Show me yourshit.

Guys will bait your hook and throw it in the water, there you go... yOu know how to fish says you. If you just throw in your post, make it work, we would not be here. This is a 3 step process is my abstract. I am tying your hook, crushing your barb, building the back of that hook all the way down around the spool. Now you know how to tie a knot, and here come the 3gaymigos in all fashions:

The Ultimate SetuPENned:

1. The backing is the spool filled with = 6lbs.
2. The shock line to cast hard, so the 6 does not break with the bullet sinker, we step it up to = 8lbs.
3. The leader line; needs to break off. What is left is the shock line, sinker, and swivel still there. What was caught and lost is a hook, grub, is = 4lb test line(s).

So, 3 is the think. Die remembering this:

1. Fuel.
2. Spark.
3. Compression.

And that says; "DO I HAVE???"... is you on the side of the road. It does not matter a carb or an FI bike. I am no expert on FI by any means. There are your 3 basics. From there, the variables are endless.

Let us move on to a wire variable. The abstract in the book is short and sweet. They use their english and now you read that shit, you are confused as hell, no? Hell no! Here is the easy part one more time. There are 19 3-packs [of variables] I can rattle off. Here are just a few. You'll find the 3-packs, do pack a wallop when diagnosing the bike. Here again, you are to die knowing your 3 wire variables this time. There are no other moves. This is another loop. Same loop as you see with the pole casting... Sans the variables of knots. Which knot will wiz thru thoseylets calls it.

Same idea as the carb screw calls it. That says, does my knot run smooth down the eyes, Faster than your knot? Say I twisted the correct knot at the two lines. Sort of the difference between a man0 knot and your knothe way you sea the variables of choice down those pole eyelets. It is like saying; Are you going to use that knot in a casting tournamenthen expect to win?

The 3wV are:

1. Connectors not connected = Think lamp socket. Is it plugged in?
2. Wire out of connector = Think of one side of the socket holder has a dropped wire off the switch.
3. Short to ground = Think of a complete loop to ground does not tie all the loops together. Something is broken like the filament. Something burned out like the contact of the switch [sensor] is keyputt.

These are your 3 Wire Variables. They are like the 3gaymigos. Somewhat how that abstract was thought up by someone here using that word. I can use anything to explain the loop you cannot get out of. These are the laws of the bike/car/you name it. The experts will tell you their bike is not in common with other bikes. That will be where they come in and dispute the FSM.

Now, here is where we get complex as all getup. Here is where your posts come in. I am going to begin with the Ultimate basic, no other way to hit bottom. This won is where you eat the experts and their way of explaining it. Bring in that number... This is all about argument of the Ultimate we Pen it here too:

1. 14.7 PSI
2. Fuel.
3. Air.

When there is no cam change, no exhaust, air cleaner, etc.,meaning, back on a stock bike, we just port a head, period; This effect is like waxing a car. The smooth finish glides the polishing rag faster over the paint. You do sort of grasp that smoother, faster slide across the finish, right?

Well, to keep the abstract so absolute like the 3wV, the 3gaymigos, the AFRange call it, did not the same event happen?; but in a faster way of moving the same number into the chamber? If you more air me, you are going to lose. This is a N/A (normally aspirated) engine.

So with this intro, have I established enough concept to follow along FI yet or should I give it up... Use all calls the ball. Thishit is too complex just to mess with that air screw >> If you only knew. :D

I am putting an AFR meter thru it's paces and then filming data to witness the event change. It is one mod at a time. The rides are one wire loop meguyveered on the bike, and now head out for the test run.

You asked what I ride? A wired up FI test mule. Why? To figure out fallacy spoken by the experts. HA!

Thelixiripoff: Comes later. First the basics. This is; be careful what you buy. YOU can either listen or eat crow later. This is the FSM speaking, not me. I'm not in the dark, gentlemen/ladies. :hi:
Makes sense to me:D Thanks for clarifying. Baby steps are always best.:hi:
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
:confused: I have to tell you most of what you wrote doesn't doesn't do much for me. I am reading a lot of opinion which is confusing. The only thing I gleamed from this thread is you need Fuel, spark, and compression. I think most of us know this.

Note to self. Stop reading stuff by Sven.:loony:
 

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
Two questions...

1. What is your source of this information?

2. Is English your native language?

Dennis
 

erldawg

Guru
Dam you just wasted my time and yours.......Pen the ultimate you need help...:loony:
 
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2004BC

FREEDOM!!!
Even if your an expert at whatever it is you just tried to say, if you can't communicate it in a concise and logical manner it is useless. Try again without all of the worthless disjointed ramblings. Get to the point if you have one.:confused:
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
Even if your an expert at whatever it is you just tried to say, if you can't communicate it in a concise and logical manner it is useless. Try again without all of the worthless disjointed ramblings. Get to the point if you have one.:confused:
X2 Absolutely.:confused:
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I am reading a lot of opinion which is confusing.
Well, I suggest you either grab a modern FSM and follow along. This is all taken out of the pages. I did not design the bike, and especially the software to make the sensors all come together an mimic a carb. I just mimic the book's abstract to my own abstract. Watt is confusing about a lamp and its parts? Use be grabbing loose wires or wires not send home, all have to do with not plugging it in, yanking on the wires, not the connectors. This pulls a wire out of the connector housing. The next mistake is bend a pin, as you reconnect the connectors. What is confusing about the 3V's? A to follow B's conclusion, one of the 3gaymigos is off line, the 3wV is now back on line.

1. 3V = ???? Pick. It's hit and miss. It walks as you narrow it down.
2. 3gaymigos = Right. Too easy. Simple. So is the rest. Run along and guess.
3. 3wV = The variables about your spark box polls about the boxes in question. Where the balance is inside the ECU, the sensors, and wire harness.
4. Deadamigos = 4 of 19 boring concepts alone, I keep counting them. You'll never plow thru them. Why? Knowon listens to turtle. I sure am not confused about how that FSM is written. I just parrot the book.

The only thing I gleamed from this thread is you need Fuel, spark, and compression. I think most of us know this.
Yeah, and how many narrow down the obvious? I see others come up with the other two variables that are not even part of the OP's problem. Like I said, it takes off, with page after page of crinkled notes of useless info. Useless, meaning, it works for the other amigos, not for this one. And then I clear that scenario in the short. WOT is your compression? I don't hear numbers... Go chase your tail. It's a waste to go chase the other fuel variable without a leak down or a compression reading :job: Where are those when a driveability problem show up? How many air screws have been touched for no reason? You've heard it over and over, but that needle is touched anyway. Now, the OP or customer made 2 mistake$. 20/20 hindsight showed it was one... Usually.

Note to self. Stop reading stuff by Sven.:loony:
Thishit is not opinion. YOu are the 'more air' kind of mod move thinker(s). Yeah, I gots more air in me engine. If you knew the bike is a clogged up preset, you are just moving the clog faster. LOL That is it in a nutshell. :roll:

This shit walks all over your confusion. I'm here to report the facts. The steps. The concepts to the 'limp.' Put you in such a loop, you cannot get out of these knots of 3V's. Dis is theory. This is low tech/hi tech. This is trickle down NASA-Military-IBMouthing. I speak, you take it for watt its worth, or read a factory manual of your choice. Bring a section in and now you can take over finding the elixir. :lol:

Two questions...

1. What is your source of this information?
I find the info in most FSM's. I read their abstract and the concepts make sense. I take the same concepts and...

2. Is English your native language
... Apply this thing called the english language to communicate FI functions to myself.

And with that, lets start in with basic computer speak:

The "Huston, We have a problem," is the computer addressing a failed sensor:

The terms are:
1. Limp.
2. Fail-safe.
3. Backup.

Each FSM writes their abstract with lawyerage kind of wording. They are saying the same thing, because of the structure of FI. They come up with all these limited steps to say how this works. You think the factory is going to spell out the good stuff? The thing is, you need a lot of your science from grammar school. This is how to follow this stuff or you are lost as to WOT and WATT is going on. But, the simple science comes into play no matter how you play. That is the beauty of the "Loop."

Here is how you read a few sentences of abstract, which by the way, you have to know a few steps of computer science to comprehend how basic this animal is. Here is the concept with you on the side of the road, in no certain order. We are going to use one sensor at a time, to show you the, Deadamigos and how they 1's and 0's [speak to] each other in the science of the characters; 1010101010:

Dead Ends:

1. ECU.
2. Crank sensor.
3. Cam sensor.

These two sensors are, hall effect type sensors. The crank swings around, it has a tone wheel at one end of the crank. It follows these open cut window, fork ends, whatever, it is, breaks a wave, sends a count needed that starts the bike. For argument sake, I have a 22 count tone wheel. The crank turns 8 revolutions to check data in the ECU. There are two calculator boxes inside the ECU. One checks the other. It is backing up itself before it fires off the cylinder that was the next to be lit. What happened when you hit the kill switch?

These 1's and 0's are saved when you turn the computer off. Here is the computer science;

RAM = Random Access Memory:
Simply stated, it saved a 1 or an 0. Call this the front and rear cylinders. When you turn the key off, it saves that cam spinning out that one number on the hall effect. L*ook up hall effect for the concept. This sensor has an output that demands a wave to make the effect. Someplace between the wipe, meaning, the tone wheel at the crank, or the cam's gap near the sensor, all these variables come into play. The 3wV, being too burned out to send that exact-balanced-output number IS the sensor.

That says, the connectors and wires were intact to send data. The sensor is the problem, if the ohm's value, or test for said sensors, shows it does not fall within the balanced numbers of the FSM.

The wallet comes out when a phantom loop that catches you off on a wild goose chase, was totally different. The diagnosis. The troubleshoot. All that says is, who is it? These 3 act basically as the 3gaymigos that need each other, where if one falls out of the loop? So:

Random sends in the cam's last hall effect number, which basically is the same number each time, right? You read the effect, you are no longer confused... Some WATT :D

The random says, I send in the (input) of either the front or rear, here, fire the other cylinder. Upon start up, the ECU has saved, "the good knownumber." You have your cam sensor number = SAVED.

WATT happens next?; comes the ECU:

ROM (Read only memory) = The software that is written says to follow these steps each time the key is turned on. There is no changing what is written, unless you reflash it somehow, use an aftermarket fuel piggy, etc. Again, see how it now follows your new fuel pattern? You changed the AFR, so key on, it follows the new map. That basically is ROM.

Generically, this troubleshoot may throw you for a loop, you start swapping out boxe$. This post entry is about how on the side of the road, you have a no spark issue. These 3, send in the spark. Withoutheseasays = Boat anchor bike! :roll:

The ECU has to save that 1 or 0 each time. If it can't, then it's the ECU. I am explaining, dead in the water parts here. If the hall effects are sending out the correct balance, the ECU cannot save the cam sensor's number, I think it's the spark box? ECU for argument sake.


Cam Sensor:

Notice how some sensors have 3 wires (backup) and the cam and crank sensors do not. The ECU does not have a backup for the crank or cam = Not FI related. It is, but I'm trying to keep it simple. If the cam drops out of its balanced output resistance, say you rode and did not stop for a long time. Something happens to the cam sensor and it now upped and took the proverbial shit.

Well, when that good-knownumber was last sent in, the key off send in the RAM number. This started the bike for the last time. It had saved the last good known number. However, the resistance inside the sensor is now out of range. The balance is gone out of that wave. So, that new number is now save. It sure is not what the ROM recognizes.

There is your side of the road scenario. You know the ECU can save the last number. Can't be the box. The crank is still spinning out the count, but we never count out the 3 loops that tie each one to a no start scenario. WATT are the odds, it might be the crank's tone wheel?


Crank Sensor:

The tone wheel off the crank can have a scenario like this example here. The bike in question threw a code on the dash pod. It was a cam sensor code. The funny thing was, the cam was sending in the same number to start the bike back up. Why did it throw the cam code?

Come to find out, he messed with the tone wheel and did not tighten the bolt tight enough. Came out of it's locked position and could spin off time. This set the cam off on the dash, because of the many variables not built into the ECU's software. Some ECU's on bikes can detect a winker failure and tell you which side, and is it back or front? If the ECU's become like a car's ECU, it gets easier to diagnose... Usually.

If you followed what the cam sends, what the ECU needs to save so it can run. If you caught a balanced number needed out of a sensor. If you looked up a hall effect to understand certain sensors. If you walked how the cam has no fail-safe to stay running, but to connect the dots about how that cam sends data. The ECU saves data. How the crank sends your bike's back wheel tied off with a polimar knot, and over she goes, PORT Side! :2thumbs:
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Even if your an expert at whatever it is you just tried to say, if you can't communicate it in a concise and logical manner it is useless. Try again without all of the worthless disjointed ramblings. Get to the point if you have one.:confused:
Hey, I buy bikes and match the FSM limp codes. This is abstract. YOu need some basics reading me. You need to follow concepts in the book. What I say and what the book say is the same animal.

The problem is, you are going to get sucked at the dealer drive, say your wife takes the car in the shop and hear their line of crap. It won't make sense one bit. But, you get the old lady to read open and closed loop here... We are not even there yet.

Wort do you want from me? Wait for them to grow on you or read the manual or man, you will now! If you do not see 14.7 or the 1 atm or 1 atmosphere, or here we go again... The 1ATMO

This makes 5 of 19. Two variables to the 1 atm... What are they? No trick questions. Here is a hint. I stand outside for a day, I feel what? Hot and cold, right?

How am I to tune the bike? I am back to the 1atmo. I am in the hot or cold loop. The sea level, mountain high altitude. Make that 6 of 19. Is that basic science or not? I'm not going to spell out every word. This is exacting, concise speak. You just need a decoderingay ding-ding, that's all. :hi: Yoda here!

If you want to decipher a shop manual, dredge thru the vernacular of the elixir concept, you'll never find it. If you have a check engine light... This is the concept right here. Same animal as a car. Same concepts. Figure it out or wear that wrist and ankle bracelet I keep mentioning. This time it is being locked around your old lady at the stealership with a CEL on.

Hey, it's Your boat anchor or bike! The bike only works one way. Grasp what you can. :roll:
 

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
I find the info in most FSM's.
You keep saying you're quoting the "FSM" but don't seem to be able to provide the name of even one reference! :rolleyes:
Apply this thing called the english language to communicate FI functions to myself.
If you don't use the english language to communicate your ideas to the rest of us they'll be lost on all but those that reside on the same planet as you! :(

How about a little more communication and a little less :job:!

Dennis
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Looks and reads like the Unibombers Manifesto.....
Yes, big plans. You have no idea. I can'tell you watt I've found. Only by this way will it play. You wreck the formula, it won't make sense. It goes beyond. It's like the NASCAR boys are playing with thishit and if they only knew how to cheat at the... :eek:

Gotta go! :D
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
You keep saying you're quoting the "FSM" but don't seem to be able to provide the name of even one reference!

How about a little more communication and a little less :job:!

Dennis
Den, I take my references from a 1978 H-D (VOES theory) FSM. The very first sensor for the concepts to work in a real basic form. Then the complex manual to the many changes from electronic to digital EFI. That manual is a 2006 Kawi FSM. Another manual is the Aprilia. Other references are on line.

So, I applied the abstract to the bike itself. And to do that, I had to wire the puppy up, one step at a time. One test at a time. This bike is a mess. Like I don't know? But, it evolved into what it is the more I probed. The elixir was too simple. Well, in hindsight now. But at the time, I was as lost as you all are now... Okay, some of you or most of you that is.

Here are two sides of the hack attacks, chasing the elixir. There was something that did not make sense to me. It was as if I was at the dealer drive and heard vague language spoken. This was an 'expert' who made his elixir the cat's meow. He caused this to happen. I proved something to myself. He was full of shit in so many words. We had a good thread going till some site closed down. You shoulda been there. :roll: It was classic.




It is going to be hard to change a recalcitrant, Dennis. No matter how you look at it; You'll lose the battle. I'll win the war.
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
Now it became even more clear to me that English is not my native language! Or does the combination of EFI and EHC on your bike do this to you? :)
 

erldawg

Guru
Just another internet person that likes to come in and stir the nest and you all are playing into his hand.. It's best to just ignor him.
 
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