Ok listen...
I order a
yankee engineuity motor mount #YE-MM-10
Then got a
Vulcan Motor Works dyna coil mount with a set of 3ohm single tower coils
Now here's why you want to get vulcan's (and only theirs cause they are custom made by dyna for them) coils and not the standard dyna coil
Standard Dyna coils have the tower at a downward 45
But with this you can't re-use your stock spark plug wires and with the straight boot it sticks way down. With the straight out tower you can re-use your stock cables and it looks better as you'll see at the end. Further, they don't have all that embedded print, they are nice n flat.
I put a little gloss black rattle can to them to enhance them more
From:
To:
I looked at the entire Vulcan setup or even the Tribel Motorworks. However, what I don't like is the added spacer to clear our big heads. It doesn't look as nice. Plus it comes with the center hole drilled thru the top if you want to re-use that meathod of motor mounting.
What I'm saying is with the added top hole you can re-use this piece of your bdm mount, but I think it clutters it up and makes it too busy
Here you can see the second piece (or 3 pieces) and the stupid hole in the top
vs the yankee mount that is just 2 pieces but not seem and no stupid hole
However my path of using such on this 2006 big dog frame was not easy. During mock up I immediattly found problems. They tell you to shim out any gap between the eye loop mount and the frame but I found a 1/2" gap and there was no way I was going to mickey mouse shim that.
As demenstrated here I had a different idea
The rear portion of the vertical eye loop needs a bit more material (Note: could have possibly used Yankee Mount #YE-MM-11)
A quick call to a CNC guy and we got this
That fixed that aspect. HOwever when he had it I didn't like the vertical opposing edge on the face. The mix match of company components didn't line up perfectly so I had the CNC guy put a 45 degree canter on that edge to give it a better look.
Straight
Cantered
Its a bit hard to see in the pics but trust me in person its a big change.
Now that would hopefully be done... right?
Not if you're me, cause now the key hole is obstructed and the key switch itself won't fit and I tried 3 different ones
If you notice the other brands have a cresent cut out of the bottom of it... see
That cresent is space added for the key. I figure that Yankee probably figures you're mounting the key else where or whatever, but at the end of the day, its a design flaw IMO. There is no strustural loss, just put in the damn cut. No biggie I had it taken care of again by my CNC guy
Then I was finally able to send it out for chrome (notice the changes)
then install it and witness all of its glory.
Notice the spark plug cables and how well they flow
It was a long road on this part but it wasn't the only trying tasks I expierenced last winter during my rebuild. Hence my tag line above my avatar. I chose this route cause I didn't want the 3 piece motor mount. It was more difficult but the end result is a much cleaner piece with major attention to detail (my standard MO). It is not the path for everybody especially if you don't have access to CNC personell and the idea of your mount budget doubling$$
Hope it helps.
