Best Motor Build Components???

Chopper Dave

SIICK!!!
hell yeah Carlos!! sounds like a sick ass set up!:whoop: :2thumbs: yeah Doc is good people......he did my cam and other warranty work on the motor:up:
don't forget pic's!
 
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Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
Lee the reason I got new heads is because I wanted to have them done before I torn down the engine. I will try to sell mine once I install the worked up heads. I may just keep them depending on how wild this thing turns out. I did look into the IST 2 in 1 exhaust and I liked it but just wanted something different. I will see how this works out for me.

Cutter, Good Looking intake you have there. I use the Stainless Creations Apocalypse Velocity Stacks, I am hoping that is enough air intake.


Al, thanks for the tip on the travel limiter lifters, I am new at this build up so I will look into it. The reason I did not 0 deck the cylinders is that I don't want to go past the 10.5 to 1 compression. A friend who races bikes advised me to leave a little on the cylinders and use a 0.01 base gasket, If this build up proves to be too much for street use, I can always go back to the stock base and head gasket and reduce the compression to about 10.05 to 1. If I do the 0 deck and use the cometic 0.030 head gasket, it will put me at 10.8 to 1, which IMO will be too much for street use or to the very limit for high test pump Gas. Then again, if I 0 deck the cylinders and use a stock head gasket instead of the cometic 0.030 I can still maintain that 10.5 to 1 compression that I want. I may just go that route, thanks for your comments on that Al.

Thanks Guys for you help I appreciate any help I can get, I don't want to F*%4 this up. :lol: :lol: The OL is pisst, but WTF it a good Idea and it's better to apologize than to ask for permission


Thanks Chopper Dave, I will get so pictures up
Carlos
 

loujr

Member
WOW, now thats what I'm talking about!!! Great information there! I will be anxiously waiting to hear what you think of end result. Sounds like you've allready done your homework little boo,..........got all that printed and filed away for specs tp look at down the road!!! Thanks again! :2thumbs:
 

MARV

Well-Known Member
Boo, are the Jims tappets offset the 1/4" for the SSW+? standard blocks won't work. they also will most likely need clearance from the tappet roller because of the high lift.

when you send the jugs out send the pistons also so they can check fitment and gap a new set of rings.

did you ask Larry about his squish grooves? :up:

also the rocker boxes are TC style

sounds like a nice build!
 
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Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
QUOTE=MARV;117524]Boo, are the Jims tappets offset the 1/4" for the SSW+? standard blocks won't work. they also will most likely need clearance from the tappet roller because of the high lift.

when you send the jugs out send the pistons also so they can check fitment and gap a new set of rings.

did you ask Larry about his squish grooves? :up:

also the rocker boxes are TC style

sounds like a nice build![/QUOTE]



Marv, they are the Jim's 1/4 Offset Tappet Blocks for the SSW, I checked with their Tech on clearances and he said “if properly aligned they it will clear a cam base circle up to .655”, (I have the S&S tappet Block align tool) I plan to check all the clearances anyway just to make sure things are right.

The ring I have (stock), I was also told by the my buddy at the machine shop (local) that the pistons don’t have to come off, because the pistons rings don’t go that far done into the cylinders.

I did not talk to Larry about squish groves, because I didn’t want them, I figured that milling the Jugs should take care of most detonation if any, and I am not looking for gas mileage to improve with this build up. Keep in mind also that I am going to use the IST Ignition, which will have a knock sensor. That will help prevent engine damage by retarding the timing should detonation be very pronounced. The IST is also supposed to get you better gas mileage, but we shall see. Push come to shove if I have no control over the detonation, I will go back to the stock base and head Gaskets and drop the compression to 10.05 to 1. or close to that instead of the 10.5 to 1.

I don’t know what rocker boxes you are talking about, but the ones I got from Aaron at Full Throttle Motorsports are S&S Rocker Boxes and S&S roller rocker. I guess you are talking about the stockers being TC instead of TP. I really don’t know what they are, all I know is that they will soon be history.

Tonight I also decided to change the Lifters (tappets) to the Jim’s Hydrosolid. The reason behind my decision is that is that these lifters work the same as if I added the S&S Hydraulic Lifter Limiters. Much much cheaper to add the S&S Hydraulic Lifter Limiters. The anti-pump-up device in the Hydrosolid tappets keeps the tappet solid after 5600 rpm’s to prevent piston to valve contact and eliminates the possibility valve float, which is the same thing the S&S Hydraulic Lifter Limiters will do. I prefer the new tappets instead of the limiters. Tappets are about $350 per set.


Carlos :cheers:
 

K9husker

Member
I have a 117 with .020 off the heads, .020 off the cylinders,(makes sure to take this off the top of the cylinder, that gives 10.5 compression. A woods .650 cam and springs, XXX carb, Hooker forbidden pipe, Powerpacc carb backing plate, Desparado S&S air filter cover, Bandit clutch. Dyno went from a stock 109hp, 115tq, to 128hp, 135tq. The bike does vibrate more but is still very reliable.
PS, you can kick anybodies ass when you race them! :D
 

Cutter

Well-Known Member
Those are great numbers :cheers:
I'm really looking forward to getting mine dyno'd as well, your stock numbers were really high as well. Were those after a rejet and exhaust but everything else stock ?
 

K9husker

Member
Those stock numbers were after B.R. pipes and jetting as well as a k&N filter. One thing to keep in mind when your cutting the heads and cylinders... I had a .600 S&S cam in the bike which has alot of duration, which kills compression. Now that i have a Woods .650 cam, it has high lift and real low duration, as well as a 4 degree advance ground into the lobes. So at the end of the day you will end up with much better compression and low end than you would ever get with a S&S setup. My bike still starts real easy with this setup. I have had alot of setups in my bikes and more pipes than you can count (pipe whore). This setup will out run any 110/113 S/E on the planet and any basic 113/117 as well. You do need the Bandit clutch cause when you hit it, it will pull you off the seat. Also when you change the clutch make sure you have a hardened nut, hardened washer and good loctite and the spacer that goes behind the clutch assmebly. That way the assembly will not rub on the inner primary cover. Torque the nut to 150lbs, then take the nut off Loctite and retorque to 120lbs! There is a thread in the technical section with the part numbers.
 

barhopper

Another round please
I have a 117 with .020 off the heads, .020 off the cylinders,(makes sure to take this off the top of the cylinder, that gives 10.5 compression. A woods .650 cam and springs, XXX carb, Hooker forbidden pipe, Powerpacc carb backing plate, Desparado S&S air filter cover, Bandit clutch. Dyno went from a stock 109hp, 115tq, to 128hp, 135tq. The bike does vibrate more but is still very reliable.
PS, you can kick anybodies ass when you race them! :D

My motor is almost the exact same. What jets are you running?
 

K9husker

Member
XXX carb, powerpacc backing plate, .031/.078 runs real good, may be a little rich may go back to a .0295/.078. either way it runs good at 2,500 altitiude
 

barhopper

Another round please
I run a 84 main, 31 int,its to rich. I have a stumble at around 2-2500 rpm. I had it dyno'd and tuned and they put in the 84. Gasman said if the main and int jet are to far apart, thats how you get this stumble. I just bought a 82 and 80 main to play with it. My heads are ported and bigger valves, so that may require the bigger main. Same cam as you, XXX carb, Dyna Y2k ign, 10.5 compression,You running rich down low or after 2500 rpm? I am on the coast. By the way, my gas mileage sucks.
 
I run a 84 main, 31 int,its to rich. I have a stumble at around 2-2500 rpm. I had it dyno'd and tuned and they put in the 84. Gasman said if the main and int jet are to far apart, thats how you get this stumble. I just bought a 82 and 80 main to play with it. My heads are ported and bigger valves, so that may require the bigger main. Same cam as you, XXX carb, Dyna Y2k ign, 10.5 compression,You running rich down low or after 2500 rpm? I am on the coast. By the way, my gas mileage sucks.
With that setup 84 is way too big,thats where your mileage is going. I'm running full size valves 2.0 int/1.625 exh. 10.8 comp w9f cam and xxx carb. According to my air fuel meter its dialed in pretty good with a 32/78 combo. The atomizer in the xxx carb mod breaks up the fuel into smaller droplets which equates to a more efficient burn which means smaller jets. On a stock unmodified G carb your jets would be in the 33/80 range because it would need the extra fuel with those motor mods.
 

K9husker

Member
As far as mileage, i get 38-40 mpg all day long. With the new engine combo, I only get 8,000 to 9,000 miles out a back tire...it's a great price to pay for a fast scooter! Just an FYI, i run Mobil 1 syn in the engine, Reline shock Proof in the trans, and HD Formula Plus in the primary. NGK plugs
 

barhopper

Another round please
As far as mileage, i get 38-40 mpg all day long. With the new engine combo, I only get 8,000 to 9,000 miles out a back tire...it's a great price to pay for a fast scooter! Just an FYI, i run Mobil 1 syn in the engine, Reline shock Proof in the trans, and HD Formula Plus in the primary. NGK plugs
NGK #'s? I have a belt drive. I run mobile 1 also. I get maybe 30 mpg, sucks.
 

barhopper

Another round please
With that setup 84 is way too big,thats where your mileage is going. I'm running full size valves 2.0 int/1.625 exh. 10.8 comp w9f cam and xxx carb. According to my air fuel meter its dialed in pretty good with a 32/78 combo. The atomizer in the xxx carb mod breaks up the fuel into smaller droplets which equates to a more efficient burn which means smaller jets. On a stock unmodified G carb your jets would be in the 33/80 range because it would need the extra fuel with those motor mods.
Thanks Al. I will put them in Saturday. I am alittle nervous on the carb adjustment afterwards, but will give it the O'L wannabe mechanic try.
 
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