Not charging problem

[Rintintin]

An electric gremlin has moved in to my 2006 Mastiff. Two weeks ago after a brief, interstate ride, the voltage regulator (VR) started smoking heavily and pretty much melted the wired coming out of it before I got it out of the garage and the battery disconnected. Prior to the VR meltdown, everything was running fine, all blinkers, lights and brake lights work fine. There was no other visible damage. I checked the circuit breaker under the seat and the little tab was not indicative, I pushed it but it didn’t click or anything. Opened the primary inspection over and did not get an overwhelming “burning” smell.

I ordered a new chrome VR from Donna. When it arrived I installed it. The bike started fine, but the voltage at the battery did not change from idle to rpms. At that point, I assumed the rotor or stator was bad and ordered a new stator from Donna (BDM170-00387).


I installed the rotor and stator. (FYI, the one I removed was a Phelon and I had to grind some of the primary case to get the new one to fit.) I started the bike, and there is still no change. The voltage at the battery remains around 12.4 at idle and up to 12.6 at mild rpm. When checking AC at the stator I’m getting 18-19 at idle and it goes up sharply at rpm.


I worked with Josh who walked me through bypassing the circuit breaker to test, and nothing changed. I then ordered another chrome VR from Donna, just in case I got a bad one. I installed it and there is no change.


I am not at all handy with electronics or meters, but it seems like something (power) is coming out of the stator but is not making it past the VR to the battery.


What am I missing? I had to REALLY wrestle with the stator plug to get it back through the engine casing, could it have become damaged? All electronics work just fine and the bike starts and seems to run ok, but I cannot prove power is flowing out of the VR and back to the battery.


I appreciate any ideas.


Thanks

Dave
2006 Mastiff, original electronics

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Charge the battery
Disconnect the VR -> battery connection
if you have a spare battery connect it to the VR output, wire the neg of spare battery to ground on bike
Start bike
Measure voltage at VR/spare battery --rev engine up and check again.
You may have some other wires that are burnt preventing full power from being delivered to the battery.

What this test does is isolates the vr/stator from the rest of the electronics on the bike.

Does you VR wire go from the VR to the battery/fuse./CB directly -- ie no breaks and extra connections (like a splce to lengthen the wire.)

 

[Rintintin]

Charge the battery
Disconnect the VR -> battery connection
if you have a spare battery connect it to the VR output, wire the neg of spare battery to ground on bike
Start bike
Measure voltage at VR/spare battery --rev engine up and check again.
You may have some other wires that are burnt preventing full power from being delivered to the battery.

What this test does is isolates the vr/stator from the rest of the electronics on the bike.

Does you VR wire go from the VR to the battery/fuse./CB directly -- ie no breaks and extra connections (like a splce to lengthen the wire.)

I like the idea. The VR wire runs directly from the vr to the battery.
I do not have another battery, but do have a car jumpstart "box" with alligator jump clips. Can that be used for this test? I removed the original VR wire completely and checked it - other than where it melted from the VR, there are no breaks or hot/melt spots along that wire, and I could not see any other wire that ran along side it to the battery box having damage. I did notice the crank position sensor wire, that runs along side the VR wires toward the stator had a melted spot in the insulation. I cannot see the bare wire, but that was exactly where the VR melted.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Here are a couple of checks. Make sure your VR has a clean ground. Have your battery tested. Read the voltage on both sides of the circuit breaker to ground, it should read the same voltage. While your having these problems it's a good time to install a circuit breaker between the battery and the EHC if your bike doesn't already have one. The Ehc is not protected from a shorted battery on the stock bikes.

 

[Rintintin]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll get the battery tested just to make sure; however, after speaking with Josh and walking through a couple of tests, it looks like the stator plug is partially grounded. I suspect it was damaged during the installation process. I am switching to compufire and will be more carefull this time on the installation. Stay tuned...

 

[Mickmorris]

I like the idea. The VR wire runs directly from the vr to the battery.
I do not have another battery, but do have a car jumpstart "box" with alligator jump clips. Can that be used for this test? I removed the original VR wire completely and checked it - other than where it melted from the VR, there are no breaks or hot/melt spots along that wire, and I could not see any other wire that ran along side it to the battery box having damage. I did notice the crank position sensor wire, that runs along side the VR wires toward the stator had a melted spot in the insulation. I cannot see the bare wire, but that was exactly where the VR melted.

You need to have something like a fuse between your VR & battery.

 

[Rintintin]

Thanks Mick. I bought a new breaker and will install it when I replace the stator.

 

[Jwooky]

I agree to check the ground. Clean and clear paint under the mounting points.

check continuity on the wire between the VR and battery

 

[Rintintin]

Hey Team. After much research and testing, my Mastiff is back on the road. Thanks to Josh and Donna and others for your help! I am sharing an update for future reference.

Here’s the short version: My original voltage regulator burned up. I replaced the rotor, stator and voltage regulator with a Compufire unit along with a new breaker at the battery for grins. All is well.

Here’s the long version: The original rotor was a “Phelon” model (you have to remove the primary cover to see the label on the rotor). To fit the new unit, the inner primary had to be filed down in a couple of spots as the “phelon” model was a little smaller. After installation, I was not getting much power from the VR. With Josh’s help, we determined there was a short inside the primary. After taking the unit back apart, I noticed the stator was rubbing a little on the inside of the rotor. I’m not sure if it required a spacer for installation or one of the windings on the stator was out of spec and too large causing the rub. Either way, I replaced the whole set up with a new Compufire unit and installed the small spacer.