Clutch rod stuck disengaged?

Energy One

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
Had an issue this weekend. Pulled the clutch lever in and when I released the lever, it stuck with the clutch disengaged.

After I got it home I removed the cover, then went to release the jam nut on the push rod and it just popped back out.

The level and cable were free, but the push rod and or ball/ramp was stuck holding the throwout bearing.

It was just freshly reassembled, balls, ramps and rod freshly greased up. Rod slides in, out like butter.

Head scratcher, I’m concerned I haven’t got to the bottom of it.

@knothead, @Mr. Wright, @KaptinAmerika, or others with any thoughts?
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Had an issue this weekend. Pulled the clutch lever in and when I released the lever, it stuck with the clutch disengaged.

After I got it home I removed the cover, then went to release the jam nut on the push rod and it just popped back out.

The level and cable were free, but the push rod and or ball/ramp was stuck holding the throwout bearing.

It was just freshly reassembled, balls, ramps and rod freshly greased up. Rod slides in, out like butter.

Head scratcher, I’m concerned I haven’t got to the bottom of it.

@knothead, @Mr. Wright, @KaptinAmerika, or others with any thoughts?
I'd pull that rod and check it for straight and check for any corrosion on it.
Then if you think its straight, I'd run up and down that with 1000grit then 1500, then maybe 2000 and then clean it with alcol or brakeclean to make sure there is no residue. Then greases it up and try again.
This is the easiest fix (if it works) if not it's likely a bigger issue.
I'd also while there regrease the ball bearings. check for a rough spot on the ramps. Maybe run over them with 0000 steel wool. If theres a bad spot you'll feel it snag the steel wool.
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
I'd pull that rod and check it for straight and check for any corrosion on it.
Then if you think its straight, I'd run up and down that with 1000grit then 1500, then maybe 2000 and then clean it with alcol or brakeclean to make sure there is no residue. Then greases it up and try again.
This is the easiest fix (if it works) if not it's likely a bigger issue.
I'd also while there regrease the ball bearings. check for a rough spot on the ramps. Maybe run over them with 0000 steel wool. If theres a bad spot you'll feel it snag the steel wool.
Good thoughts thanks.

I'm typically super continence about things like that, but it certainty warrants a second look.

It’s operating so smooth again too. Maybe I picked up a shaving or some debris. Idk. Driving me nuts.
 

mleach72

Well-Known Member
Had an issue this weekend. Pulled the clutch lever in and when I released the lever, it stuck with the clutch disengaged.

After I got it home I removed the cover, then went to release the jam nut on the push rod and it just popped back out.

The level and cable were free, but the push rod and or ball/ramp was stuck holding the throwout bearing.

It was just freshly reassembled, balls, ramps and rod freshly greased up. Rod slides in, out like butter.

Head scratcher, I’m concerned I haven’t got to the bottom of it.

@knothead, @Mr. Wright, @KaptinAmerika, or others with any thoughts?
Sounds like the ball an ramp is jumping, meaning the balls are rolling up onto the flat area on the ramp. That's why it stuck and popped back when you went to adjust it. Loosen everything up and start the rod and cable adjustment from scratch. I think because you have the 12 plate clutch, the adjustment window is very small. I think they may have cheated a little bit and went too far.
 

mleach72

Well-Known Member
Here is what I do. I have a special situation. I have very tall apes and a very long clutch cable. Adjusting it normally doesn't work. It takes about a half a pull for the cable to become taught. Needless to say, this doesn't leave enough travel to move the actuator far enough. I'm not saying this will work on your bike or any other bike, but it's what I have to do on my bike.
I turn the rod in until it makes contact. Then I'll give it a couple more cranks. This puts pressure on the actuator and forces the arm fully to the rear. Then I'll back it off until the rod comes free. Then I'll back it off another 1/8 turn. I'll lock it down right there. On the cable, I just keep turning it out until the bike stops creeping when I have the clutch pulled in. It appears that there is no play in the lever, but there actually is. If you look up under the control, the end on the cable sheath is starting to fall away from the cable retainer. That's what works for me. Neutral is easy to find and no clutch slipping.
 

mleach72

Well-Known Member
If you can't get it adjusted right, there is one more thing you can try. You can get a set of 10mm ball bearings. They are just a hair bigger than the stock 3/8" ball bearings. That will give you a little bit more travel when you pull the clutch. I have never tried it, but I have heard of some guys that have. It might give you enough travel to release the 12 plate clutch.
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
Sounds like the ball an ramp is jumping, meaning the balls are rolling up onto the flat area on the ramp. That's why it stuck and popped back when you went to adjust it. Loosen everything up and start the rod and cable adjustment from scratch. I think because you have the 12 plate clutch, the adjustment window is very small. I think they may have cheated a little bit and went too far.
I was thinking about it jumping the ramp and getting caught. Need to think about this and look into further. I did change the bars and lever this year, perhaps it has slightly more travel.

Also, I have the 9 plate with ez pull. Also have the heavy pressure plate, which makes this even odder.

Have never had an issue with doing the adjustment. Done it dozens of times, usually 1/8 to 1/4 out. I also do the preload a couple times to make sure everything is seated and I’m find the touch point. I also run the cable right, almost no play.
 

mleach72

Well-Known Member
I was thinking about it jumping the ramp and getting caught. Need to think about this and look into further. I did change the bars and lever this year, perhaps it has slightly more travel.

Also, I have the 9 plate with ez pull. Also have the heavy pressure plate, which makes this even odder.

Have never had an issue with doing the adjustment. Done it dozens of times, usually 1/8 to 1/4 out. I also do the preload a couple times to make sure everything is seated and I’m find the touch point. I also run the cable right, almost no play.
Oh, I thought you said you went with the 12 plate.
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
Update.

As soon as starting to loosen the jam nut on the push rod, it popped back out.

Tore it all down, push rod rolls straight, no groves, balls and rams look perfect.

I literally found nothing wrong. Cleaned it all up, re greased and reassembled and working perfectly again.

A little worried that I can’t explain what happened.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Update.

As soon as starting to loosen the jam nut on the push rod, it popped back out.

Tore it all down, push rod rolls straight, no groves, balls and rams look perfect.

I literally found nothing wrong. Cleaned it all up, re greased and reassembled and working perfectly again.

A little worried that I can’t explain what happened.
Sounds like it wasn't greased up well enough the first time and it got stuck.
Whenever I have the rod out of mine, I run over it with some 0000 stell wool to knock down any corrosion.wear high spots then grease the crap out of it, slide it in and pull it back out and grease it normally again and install and adjust.
 
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