wireing - need advise

[KaptinAmerika]

I would avoid hard wiring wherever possible unless you really know what your doing with a soldering iron.
It is really easy to solder things wrong and introduce unknown resistance which can then lead to other problems later down the road.
Of course not crimping correctly can lead to its own problems as well but not as easily as soldering can.

 

[mike sullivan]

For the computer mechanic in training (me) and anyone else needing to be on the same page.

Cam and crank sensors are basic hall-effect makers. Think of 2 communication lines. 360° is one long square wave. The cam comes around twice, so this now becomes 2 balanced square waves matching the 1 long wave. I now know my cam will make 2 short squares, my crank puts out 1 long square. The fundamentals are correct, but I start confusing you with all the cuts in the crank and those are the 1 long square cuts, all cut down waves to make 1 it gets confusing, so just think of volts are numbers 'that can be measured is = current.'

There is a resistance of a wire so show me the inches, feet, yards, it is still one long wire with a measured resistance. The cam sensor wire is one long, non-magnetic (copper) wire, wrapped around a magnetic pin or small dowel; to produce a current that moves up the wire. Turn the crank backwards and the current heads up the other wire = AC.

So one pulse goes up a wire that can be measured and this is now an input signal. If I knew my h-d resistance between their cam sensor wires, I measure mine against that spec, if I am within range, I head for the other variables.

I have no clue what the who or watt, but where is your forum sponsor that can check those? Go to his website, look up your year H-box, run thru the left turn signal reset procedure. Hell? I don't know if this is generic across the whole H-box updates and that sequence to clear the RAM and start the bike in ROM?

1. I pull both plugs; I have to check spark is step...
2... but here I am first is to reinstall a plug [take your pick] place it in 1st gear and see if the rear tire drags on the floor when I push it for compression; swap to the other cyl before I chase my tail no start.
3. Com is out of the way, yes? I want spark is next.
4. I have spark and compression, I will now see if there is gas
a. vented open from the tank cap.
b. no bent/kinked/swollen internal fuel line.
c. petcock flows like a mother.
d. float is not stuck closed so no fuel in bowl; pull drain screw.
e. crank sensor produces spark don't forget; no start = coil is good.
f. I can test my coil wire is touch which side is hot at the post so the H-box sends that out to the coil? Key to H, H to coil wire, yes?

thanks 4 the info , gonna go talk 2 another mechanic 2 C if he will work on my bike . I will keep u guys informed .

 

[mike sullivan]

I would avoid hard wiring wherever possible unless you really know what your doing with a soldering iron.
It is really easy to solder things wrong and introduce unknown resistance which can then lead to other problems later down the road.
Of course not crimping correctly can lead to its own problems as well but not as easily as soldering can.

thanks kaptin , but I would not attempt a task like that . im no mechanic . I would take it 2 a shop 4 that

 

[mike sullivan]

I would like 2 thank all of u 4 helping me try 2 figure out wat is wrong with my bike . I found a mechanic with a dyno & diagnostic equip that is gonna take on my project . hope 2 give u guys good news in a few weeks . thanks again 4 all ur help