What does the Super G Bowl Vent Plug do???

Moespeeds

Well-Known Member
I'm running a stainless creations intake, which is basically an open V stack, and very short pipes on my bike. I had a 33/78 combo in there, with the bowl vent plug IN. The bike ran OK, but if I go hard into the throttle it would break up bad right in the powerband, as if I was hitting the rev limiter. If I smoothly applied throttle, it would accelerate smoothly up to redline. Last night I pulled the bowl vent plug, and now I can't get it jetted at all. Intermediate seems ok, but when the high kicks in it runs like shit, bucking like crazy. I'm at a 31 int and 82 high, and I know for sure that spread is too far off. I'm going to try a larger air bleed today, are the air bleed screws the same size as high jets? Should I put that vent plug back in? What's it do?

 
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Chopper117

Chopper Nutt
Hey Moe,
When I got my dog tuned on the dyno I ended up with:

33 Int
88 Main
54 Air Bleed

And it was running strong. I was having a problem before where it would stall on me at high rpm's and they ended up changing my main from a 82 to a 88 and my airbleed went from a 40 to a 54. No problems since. :2thumbs:
 

Chopper117

Chopper Nutt
Stock intake with K & N Filter. But I just pulled my engine last week and sent it to Hillside Cycles to get everything done to it. So my jets will change now. So the intake will be match ported. :cheers:
 

barhopper

Another round please
My XXX carb does not have the plug in as Bob said it needs to be removed. I had a 84 main jet in(Dyno shop put it in) and it killed my mileage, like 30 MPG. It ran great with it in, but that MPG sucked. I think I have a 81 in it now, back to 40 mpg. Still runs awesome.
 

Moespeeds

Well-Known Member
I ran home at lunch today and played with it. At the advice of a friend, I dropped the main from 82 all the way to 74, and now it runs great. I still had a stumble right at the start of the powerband, but I shut off the accelerator pump completely and it went away. So what I was calling a lean condition was actually way rich. I wanted to set the accelerator pump but of course it started raining so I went back to work. I ran up to a local shop and picked up a 52 and 66 airbleed and I'll play with them later today. I'll let you guys know how I make out. Is there another way to check for a lean main besides reading the plugs? Reason I ask is because doing a high RPM run and shutting the bike off right before redline for me is a 3 hand job. I have no kill switch on my bars.
 

Staffy

Active Member
Reason I ask is because doing a high RPM run and shutting the bike off right before redline for me is a 3 hand job. I have no kill switch on my bars.
Moe, what's this trick? Please enlighten...

(PS: Are you back up an running or is this another bike? Side note (hijack :lol:) - my spinger is in, will be calling you. From the attached pic looks like you can cut a 1/2" off your "push tubes" in order to raise the axel a bit, or does it do that when loaded and off the kick stand?)
 

Moespeeds

Well-Known Member
I'd have to let go of the left bar, reach down and turn off the key, then reach back up and grab the clutch while doing 70 mph.

When you load the front end, the rear of the rocker will drop 1/2", raising the axle. If your axle does not sit above the rear pivot (where the fat tube attaches) the springer will not work properly. Call me if you need clarification.
 
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