Rear Wheel Bearing Spacer Specs for 2006 BD Mastiff

[Jay Dawg]

Does anyone have the specs for the Rear Wheel Bearing Spacer for the 2006 BD Mastiff? I measured the one found on my bike and it was 7.010" in length, 1.0035" I.D. and 1.2535 O.D. Thanks

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

Send me a pm. If you're talking about the 3 spacers for the rear wheel.

 

[Jay Dawg]

Send me a pm. If you're talking about the 3 spacers for the rear wheel.

Thanks Mastiff Rider64 it’s #7

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

Oh I don't have the measurement on that one, I have the spacer specs for the ones between frame and Caliper mount, Caliper mount and bearing and belt pulley and frame. You could call HDM and speak to Derrick Monday and see if he has one for the 250 rear tire and see if you will give you the specs. All the 250 rear tire bikes should have the same size spacer your talking about.

 

[Jay Dawg]

Oh I don't have the measurement on that one, I have the spacer specs for the ones between frame and Caliper mount, Caliper mount and bearing and belt pulley and frame. You could call HDM and speak to Derrick Monday and see if he has one for the 250 rear tire and see if you will give you the specs. All the 250 rear tire bikes should have the same size spacer your talking about.

I checked with Eric and Donna. Donna said they didn’t have it listed but she was still working on the information/part. If I get further information I will posted it to assist others that might need this information. i have no idea if my bearing spacer is the correct one, as some had been there before me, downsides of working on a bike that’s been worked on. I saw the ones listed on HDM for the 300-rear tire but nothing for the 250. Thanks again Mastiff Rider64 for your help and response.

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

I checked with Eric and Donna. Donna said they didn’t have it listed but she was still working on the information/part. If I get further information I will posted it to assist others that might need this information. i have no idea if my bearing spacer is the correct one, as some had been there before me, downsides of working on a bike that’s been worked on. I saw the ones listed on HDM for the 300-rear tire but nothing for the 250. Thanks again Mastiff Rider64 for your help and response.

Well just out of curiosity isn't the hubs for all these bikes the same size? And the wheel spaces that I was talking about different in size between 250 frames and 300 frames? If the hubs are the same shouldnt the bearing spacer you are looking for be the same also?

 

[kickstart]

10+ years ago I posted what I did when replacing the bearings and it's a process involving a lot of measuring tools along with calculations and machining the spacer to apply limited pressure on the inner races. I called the wheel MFG PM and they didn't know squat about the bearings or what the tolerances were in the machining process so one person I spoke with told me the tolerance could be +/- .015 and that is why I felt the need to do what I did. That post should still be on here.

 

[Jay Dawg]

Well just out of curiosity isn't the hubs for all these bikes the same size? And the wheel spaces that I was talking about different in size between 250 frames and 300 frames? If the hubs are the same shouldnt the bearing spacer you are looking for be the same also?

The hubs are different depending on bike and wheel size, they have to space out the drive pulley and disk for the wheel/frame and offsets. The only "crush" bearing spacer I found listed for sale is for the 300 rear tire. I have no specs for this part. When mocking up the hubs in the wheel you can actually measure distance that the spacer provides by mounting one hub and then flipping the wheel and setting the other hub on the spacer and measuring the distance from the hub mounting surface to the wheel mounting surface. You also have to ensure your bearings are fully seated, which I confirmed. Everyone that has spoken about this topic says the spacer has to be longer to provide an interference fit. I just don't know what the proper distance or length of the given spacer should be. I have already assembled the hubs with the spacer I found originally between my hubs. It seems like a lot side loading pressure to the to the center race of the bearings to the point that I could not rotate the bearings by hand. The manual does say there should be zero movement of the spacer once assembled or you must replace the hubs or spacer. I am assembling the bike anyway, realizing this might destroy the bearing and will require me to do this all over again. If that happens, hopefully I will have obtained a new wheel bearing spacer or have the specs to machine one. What a pain in the ass!

 

[Jay Dawg]

10+ years ago I posted what I did when replacing the bearings and it's a process involving a lot of measuring tools along with calculations and machining the spacer to apply limited pressure on the inner races. I called the wheel MFG PM and they didn't know squat about the bearings or what the tolerances were in the machining process so one person I spoke with told me the tolerance could be +/- .015 and that is why I felt the need to do what I did. That post should still be on here.

I will search for your post, thanks

 

[Jay Dawg]

I will search for your post, thanks

Here is what (KaptinAmerika) said about the issue of the spacer being longer than distance between the bearings. (Kickstart) I did not find your post.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

The hubs are different depending on bike and wheel size, they have to space out the drive pulley and disk for the wheel/frame and offsets. The only "crush" bearing spacer I found listed for sale is for the 300 rear tire. I have no specs for this part. When mocking up the hubs in the wheel you can actually measure distance that the spacer provides by mounting one hub and then flipping the wheel and setting the other hub on the spacer and measuring the distance from the hub mounting surface to the wheel mounting surface. You also have to ensure your bearings are fully seated, which I confirmed. Everyone that has spoken about this topic says the spacer has to be longer to provide an interference fit. I just don't know what the proper distance or length of the given spacer should be. I have already assembled the hubs with the spacer I found originally between my hubs. It seems like a lot side loading pressure to the to the center race of the bearings to the point that I could not rotate the bearings by hand. The manual does say there should be zero movement of the spacer once assembled or you must replace the hubs or spacer. I am assembling the bike anyway, realizing this might destroy the bearing and will require me to do this all over again. If that happens, hopefully I will have obtained a new wheel bearing spacer or have the specs to machine one. What a pain in the ass!

Counter to what most would assume, the inner race shouldn't spin freely when the pre-load is on the bearings once installed. The outer race which is pressed into the hub is actually the only race that should move freely with the wheel as it rolls down the road, while the inner race should stay put with the axle. Also DON'T forget rear axle is torqued to 65 ft/lbs so it is squeezed tightly from the outside & inside, front is a little less but substantial foot/lbs for a bearing inner race to have if not already "squeezed". Your inner race is always the weakest link so you want to limit the play.

Also, NOT all 250 and not all 300 tires would have the same squish tubes (spacers as you are referring to them as). The hub lengths can be different based on Year/Models.

 

[Jay Dawg]

Counter to what most would assume, the inner race shouldn't spin freely when the pre-load is on the bearings once installed. The outer race which is pressed into the hub is actually the only race that should move freely with the wheel as it rolls down the road, while the inner race should stay put with the axle. Also DON'T forget rear axle is torqued to 65 ft/lbs so it is squeezed tightly from the outside & inside, front is a little less but substantial foot/lbs for a bearing inner race to have if not already "squeezed". Your inner race is always the weakest link so you want to limit the play.

Also, NOT all 250 and not all 300 tires would have the same squish tubes (spacers as you are referring to them as). The hub lengths can be different based on Year/Models.

Thanks, Th3InfamousI, I appreciate your input. I would feel better if I knew what the "interference" fit should be or the dimensions of the correct squish/crush/spacer tube, but I will have to assume the squish tube I found between the hubs originally is the correct one, as that is what I have used to assemble the hubs to the wheel. Let me know if you come up with a new one for the 06 Mastiff, I would still buy it to have available and it would allow me to compare the specs to the one I installed.

 

[HMAN]

Maybe this will ease your mind a bit as well....most here will change bearings with tires so the bearings arent in there that long.

 

[Jay Dawg]

Maybe this will ease your mind a bit as well....most here will change bearings with tires so the bearings arent in there that long.

That’s kind of what I was figuring, of the three bearings that were in the rear hubs one was totally shot. I have a feeling I’m going to become an expert on this task.

 

[HMAN]

Invest in a bearing puller. Makes the job much easier.

 

[Jay Dawg]

Invest in a bearing puller. Makes the job much easier.

I did and then had a machine shop make special adapters for the hubs, I did not care for the way the Harley style worked on the BDM hubs. It has been a steep learning curve lol.