Wheel Bearing Installation Problem???

Energy One

Olde Man

Active Member
I put two new tires on my 06 K9 and replaced the wheel bearings and seals at the same time. 10500 miles. I seated the bearings firmly in the hubs and checked the installed depth to make sure they were at the bottom. When I installed the hubs on the wheel with the spacer in the middle I noticed that the hub was approx. .022 off the wheel. It was like the spacer is too long or I seated the bearings too deep??? It just doesn't seem right to have that much preload on the bearings. I am sure that the 45 ft lbs on the axle nut fine thread helps relieve this a little. I said wtf and put it together anyway and every thing seems OK. Does anyone have any observations or insight into this .022 rear and .030 front clearance? Thanks
 

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
oldeman,
I put a thin washer on top of the spacer between the hubs and tighten them down. Then I remove the hub and then removed the washer, put it all back together with locktite and torqued. These bearings are not designed to have any preload. The thin washer will make the bearing move out just alittle so there is no side force on the bearings, (no preload).
 

Olde Man

Active Member
RRRUFF,
Big Dog should have measured the hub wheel assy and then supplied a shim to place behind one of the bearings or furnished a spacer that is cut to the proper length. You should not have to push a bearing back and forth by the inner race to install it. This is probably the root cause of the bearing failure rate. 10,000 mile failure is either an installation or application problem. It pisses me off that I probably threw away two days work and $100 in bearings because I thought that "they wouldn't do that".
 

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
RRRUFF,
Big Dog should have measured the hub wheel assy and then supplied a shim to place behind one of the bearings or furnished a spacer that is cut to the proper length. You should not have to push a bearing back and forth by the inner race to install it. This is probably the root cause of the bearing failure rate. 10,000 mile failure is either an installation or application problem. It pisses me off that I probably threw away two days work and $100 in bearings because I thought that "they wouldn't do that".
Agree 100%. I found this out when I did my wheel bearings, I didn't have a failure but over 10k miles so decided to change them out.
 

MARV

Well-Known Member
isnt the hub indexed to the wheel? its been a while but i thought you had to turn the hub till it sat flush with the rim, then bolt it up.
 

Olde Man

Active Member
Marv I put a small center punch mark on all of the parts inline with the valve stem to make sure I got them back together correctly but I did have some material transfer on the faces of the hub and drive pulley. One bolt had worked out about 1/4" and the others were just a little more than snug. The mating surfaces looked like they were tapped with a ball peen hammer 1000 times. I think it worked back and forth and wore the little divots into the face. These defenitely only went together one way. I ahd noticed black specks on my rear rim for the last 2000 mi. It was smeary like melted rubber (dragstrip days) so I thought it was belt material. I now think it was the displaced alumunum just like smeary polishing residue. I would recomend checking the torque on the pulley bolts on a regular basis. Somebody else had one of these back out a contacted the frame.
 

mwb9520

New Member
Thanks for this thread guys! I am experiencing the exact same issue on my '06 K-9. I too have only 10K miles on my chit bearings. I pressed in the 2 new bearings on the pulley side, bolted on the hub, flipped over the wheel, dropped in the spacer, and measured between the top of the spacer and the hub shoulder surface, and the spacer is about .020 too tall.
I was curious as to how you guys were addressing this. I am debating between shimming out the bearing or shaving a few thousanths off the spacer.
 
There is nothing to address folks.
The spacer is designed to be slightly longer to prevent the bearing inner race from being moved laterally when you torque the axle. If the spacer was the same length, or worse shorter, then you would stress the bearing in a lateral movement which will cause early bearing failure.
 

mwb9520

New Member
Thanks Kaptin - I'll go with that. I agree that some pre-load to the bearing makes sense to me, it just felt like .020+ was a bit excessive.
 

Jay Dawg

Member
Does anyone here know the correct length of the rear wheel bearing spacer for an 06 Mastiff? Before assembly I measured bearing spacer at 7.2010". I just assembled my hubs to the wheel, I am concerned about the bearing spacer being too long. I saw what KaptinAmerika said about it, but feel the spacer is putting a big side load on the bearing. . I installed the left side hub first, then I loosely installed the right side with the bearing spacer located with the axle. The right side hub sat up on the bearing spacer, not the wheel. I torqued everything down. The axle was able to slide in and out but I could not rotate the new bearings by hand as I was able to do before assembly of the hubs. The bearings were seating as directed in the manual. I can stick the axle into the bearing and using the axle at a slight angle can turn the bearings, but it seems overly tight. I know this is an old thread but I sure many people here have been through this same thing. Thanks for the input.
 

Olde Man

Active Member
Try this. Assy the way you did just snug and put a feeler gauge into the space between the hub and wheel. Measure at four places to get and average. File a little bit less than the average that you measured with the feeler gauge off of the spacer. The problem most people have is they dont have a way to measure the 7 plus inches. Go slow. If you dont take enough the hubs will preload and if you take too much the axle torque will do the same. I think that the multiple hub bolts would put a lot of side load on the bearings. Let me know how it goes.
 

Jay Dawg

Member
Try this. Assy the way you did just snug and put a feeler gauge into the space between the hub and wheel. Measure at four places to get and average. File a little bit less than the average that you measured with the feeler gauge off of the spacer. The problem most people have is they dont have a way to measure the 7 plus inches. Go slow. If you dont take enough the hubs will preload and if you take too much the axle torque will do the same. I think that the multiple hub bolts would put a lot of side load on the bearings. Let me know how it goes.
Unfortunately, I have already assembled the hubs to the wheel using red loctite, as a side note I attempted to use loctite 37700, a paste, with the primer, and found it set up too fast and altered the torque, I had to start over, after cleaning everything again, and then using the more traditional red 263 loctite with primer (which worked well and gave me time to torque the bolts in two increments).

I would really to know if others have had the same issues with the bearings tightening up to the degree I explained after assembly of the hubs to the wheel. Not knowing what the factory tolerances are/were I would have no idea how much material should be removed, if any, to ensure the bearings have the right amount of preload. Once that material is removed it would require a new bearing spacer to be created. I was able to measure the length of the tube exactly as I had an extra-long dial caliper. I see the bearing tubes being sold for K9's and 2007 and later Mastiff's but none for the 06 Mastiff. I would really like to know what other's bearing spacers have measured, again mine measured out 7.2010" length, 1.0035 I.D. and 1.2535 O.D. I hope someone else has measured their 06 Mastiff's rear bearing spacer.

Olde Man I appreciate your suggestion and I should have thought to measure the standoff measurement before applying any torque to the hub bolts but even then, it would have been a guess as to how much material to remove from the tube.
 

Olde Man

Active Member
Assemble the axle and wheel assy off the MC. Some washers will be probably be required. Torque the assy and see if you can turn the bearing by hand. My suggestion was not just a thought but a conclusion after replacing the bearings after every tire change. There are some built in F*** ups in these nice MC.
 

Jay Dawg

Member
Assemble the axle and wheel assy off the MC. Some washers will be probably be required. Torque the assy and see if you can turn the bearing by hand. My suggestion was not just a thought but a conclusion after replacing the bearings after every tire change. There are some built in F*** ups in these nice MC.
You’re absolutely correct about the built in F@#$ ups in a nice Motorcycle. Thanks for your suggestions.
 
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