HELP

Energy One

Txspike

New Member
Sir, I have a 2008 Big Dog Chopper with a 117ci. The problem I have is when it is warmed up it dose not want to start . Example, Say I drive like 8 Miles to a gas station the engine is warmed up. Ok I kill the engine, fuel it up and try to start the engine and it will barely turn over.

It sounds like a Car Engine that the timing is off, or a motor that is being started with a weak battery. And I have put a new battery on it and a new starter

As a matter of fact I was at a gas station and did try to start it with the engine warm with the new battery on it. And it twisted the starter shaft in half. I have a new starter for it now, but I need to figure out why it is doing this first.

Thank You for Your Time
David
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
Lifetime Supporting Member
sounds to me like your compression releases may not be functioning. depress the rubber buttons in the center of the heads and see if they do actually go down and then see how the motor turns over.
 

Jersey Big Mike

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
When did this start happening.
Was anything changed on the bike before it started to occur?
I don't think just compression releases not working would twist a starter shaft in two.
After checking the compression releases try this would be my first thought.
Run it till its warm and get back home and quickly take off the primary cover than have someone quickly bump the start button and watch the starter shaft and everything else inside the primary (watch out for spraying oil when you do this!).
My guess is something is binding when warm.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
If I go out to a cold engine and it starts up like right now, wouldn't the releases work? Yes.
If I buy a battery and my wallet squeaks, it's the battery. I'm just saying.
If I ride this bike a lot, my stator might be going out. It's charging, but when hot, lots of resistance and the voltage drops.

Empirically speaking, cold it idles at 14.1v. Hot, it shoots down to 13 and change at the idle. Battery was well charged and 1 year new. Load test checked good. So at 12.8v when checked cold, the loop was around ten minutes. Checked battery and it dropped to 12.3v. 12.6v is borderline recharge back to point eight.

If I had a temp gun, I'd pack it, and pull it out at the station. Shoot the battery's body. If that thing is so hot, have to remember the triple tie-in of that engine heat adding heat to the battery. Just saying... cheap seats at the battery case and how much meat is there quality wise. Temp gun shows no excess heat, then eliminate the heat factor.

If you have a volt meter, that too is packed with the gun.
If say you use the battery charger tether that is easily accessible, you can check the battery that quick while the bike is still idling hot before you turn it off. Then if it's 12.6v or better, not the stator, nor the battery when hot.
If I were to guess the mechanical release is magnetic in the design factor, I would go out to my cold engine, cycle the key with one hand, the other hand on the release. I want to feel that tick thru my fingers. I turn the fob off, hand on the other release and with key on, I felt the magnetic trigger = Cold.
If I bring a toothpick, pencil, something to rest on a hot release, I'll know if each one works = Hot.
If the resistance stops the magnetic move hot: 'Magnetism ~ You cannot separate the heat from the chemical reaction.'
 

knothead

RIGID4LIFE
Supporting Member
Decompressions not working wouldnt brake the shaft into BUT yes make it will make it harder to start....mine hasnt worked in 8 years.....i am curious if the pushrods are to tight or timing is to high or both causing it hard to start when its hot....not saying they are but i dont know what has been done to the motor....couple of things could cause this issue of it not wanting to start hot... could be just that starter going bad and binding up...so more info u can give us on the bike might help us help you...
 
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Marky-Marc

Well-Known Member
I would GUESS, I would start with the crank sensor.....when Crank sensors go out, your bike won't start when warmed up. Starter shaft breaking is another issue.....you can troubleshoot the crank sensor, when the bike is warmed up by watching the lights on the ignition module....hard to do if you can see them, but you will need to probably take your battery side covers off to see it...

You have three LED's on your ignition module. The red light should light up when you hit the run button, the yellow and blue lights should blink back and forth/red may dim a bit when starting (pushing the start button). If your crank sensor is bad the blue and yellow LED's will not work. If the red LED doesn't light up when you hit the run button, then either your Ignition module is bad or you are not getting 12 volts to the ignition module.

Others have given great advice too...when your engine is warm and won't start, try pushing down on the rubber domes in the center of the cylinders with your hands (without burning yourself), and then see if it starts....but, check your crank sensor first.....
 
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Txspike

New Member
Decompressions not working wouldnt brake the shaft into BUT yes make it will make it harder to start....mine hasnt worked in 8 years.....i am curious if the pushrods are to tight or timing is to high or both causing it hard to start when its hot....not saying they are but i dont know what has been done to the motor....couple of things could cause this issue of it not wanting to start hot... could be just that starter going bad and binding up...so more info u can give us on the bike might help us help you...
Thank You Sir
 

Txspike

New Member
I would GUESS, I would start with the crank sensor.....when Crank sensors go out, your bike won't start when warmed up. Starter shaft breaking is another issue.....you can troubleshoot the crank sensor, when the bike is warmed up by watching the lights on the ignition module....hard to do if you can see them, but you will need to probably take your battery side covers off to see it...

You have three LED's on your ignition module. The red light should light up when you hit the run button, the yellow and blue lights should blink back and forth/red may dim a bit when starting (pushing the start button). If your crank sensor is bad the blue and yellow LED's will not work. If the red LED doesn't light up when you hit the run button, then either your Ignition module is bad or you are not getting 12 volts to the ignition module.

Others have given great advice too...when your engine is warm and won't start, try pushing down on the rubber domes in the center of the cylinders with your hands (without burning yourself), and then see if it starts....but, check your crank sensor first.....
Thank You Sir
 

Txspike

New Member
I would GUESS, I would start with the crank sensor.....when Crank sensors go out, your bike won't start when warmed up. Starter shaft breaking is another issue.....you can troubleshoot the crank sensor, when the bike is warmed up by watching the lights on the ignition module....hard to do if you can see them, but you will need to probably take your battery side covers off to see it...

You have three LED's on your ignition module. The red light should light up when you hit the run button, the yellow and blue lights should blink back and forth/red may dim a bit when starting (pushing the start button). If your crank sensor is bad the blue and yellow LED's will not work. If the red LED doesn't light up when you hit the run button, then either your Ignition module is bad or you are not getting 12 volts to the ignition module.

Others have given great advice too...when your engine is warm and won't start, try pushing down on the rubber domes in the center of the cylinders with your hands (without burning yourself), and then see if it starts....but, check your crank sensor first.....
Thank You Sir
I would GUESS, I would start with the crank sensor.....when Crank sensors go out, your bike won't start when warmed up. Starter shaft breaking is another issue.....you can troubleshoot the crank sensor, when the bike is warmed up by watching the lights on the ignition module....hard to do if you can see them, but you will need to probably take your battery side covers off to see it...

You have three LED's on your ignition module. The red light should light up when you hit the run button, the yellow and blue lights should blink back and forth/red may dim a bit when starting (pushing the start button). If your crank sensor is bad the blue and yellow LED's will not work. If the red LED doesn't light up when you hit the run button, then either your Ignition module is bad or you are not getting 12 volts to the ignition module.

Others have given great advice too...when your engine is warm and won't start, try pushing down on the rubber domes in the center of the cylinders with your hands (without burning yourself), and then see if it starts....but, check your crank sensor first.....
Thank You Sir
 
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