Could use some ideas for videos.....

Albq2200

New Member
Yes it is a full 12 volts and is present when the key is turned off. When I turn the key on the 12 volts goes away. The speedo is erratic , and has now stopped all together, and the turn signals don't always want to turn on with just one push of the button . I worked on it a bit last weekend and installed a temporary toggle switch on the green starter wire . I wanted to see if I turned the voltage to solenoid on and off manually what would happen. It worked fine, I was able to start the bike and rode it for about two hours. When I got home I checked the voltage again and now the it seems to be back to normal. No power to the solenoid when the key is off , and the bike starts. WTF!!!!!!!!! I bought this bike a couple months back , 2005 , one owner , 10,000 miles , really nice shape. I noticed after I got it that the battery would go down after sitting three or four days , I put in a new battery , but still have the same problem? I have to leave it on a tender or it goes flat.
 
Yes it is a full 12 volts and is present when the key is turned off. When I turn the key on the 12 volts goes away. The speedo is erratic , and has now stopped all together, and the turn signals don't always want to turn on with just one push of the button . I worked on it a bit last weekend and installed a temporary toggle switch on the green starter wire . I wanted to see if I turned the voltage to solenoid on and off manually what would happen. It worked fine, I was able to start the bike and rode it for about two hours. When I got home I checked the voltage again and now the it seems to be back to normal. No power to the solenoid when the key is off , and the bike starts. WTF!!!!!!!!! I bought this bike a couple months back , 2005 , one owner , 10,000 miles , really nice shape. I noticed after I got it that the battery would go down after sitting three or four days , I put in a new battery , but still have the same problem? I have to leave it on a tender or it goes flat.
You likely have a bad VR. Change the VR to a CompUFire or Cycle Electric. Defective BD OEM VRs are a common issue.

CompUFire VR
 
The battery issue is what really tells me it is the VR but the misbehaving VR is likely causing issues with the EHC, if it hasn't caused permanent damage to the EHC already. Vast numbers of BD owners have suffered similar fates with burned electronic components and the inability to keep batteries in their bikes and in majority of those situations it has been a bad VR.
You should not need to have the trickle charge on more than once a week to keep the battery at an adequate charge if you are not riding regularly.
One thing at a time though, solve your battery issue first then proceed with any necessary troubleshooting after that.
You should also test your rotor and stator and make sure they are in good health also.
On the front left side of the motor, if your sitting on the bike, is the stator plug.
Remove it by simply pulling it straight off the plug.
Using a voltmeter set to continuity put the positive probe in one of the connector holes and touch the other to the motor case.
Do the same thing in the other hole.
If either one or both show continuity then you are going to have to go into your primary and find out what the issue is with the rotor and stator.
If no continuity is present put the voltmeter on AC 20, put one probe in one of the holes and the other probe in the opposite hole, doesn't matter what color.
Start the bike and check for voltage.You should see around 15-18 at idle and another 10 or so per thousand rpm up to about 40 volts.
If that is good then the rotor and stator are okay just replace the VR.
 
No "special" tools are required but you do have to remove the primary chain and the engine sprocket to get the rotor and stator off.
 
While not a BD DSSC this will give you a bit of an idea what is involved
You will only have the Engine nut to remove not the complete compensator system.
You might be able to remove the engine sprocket without removing the clutch assembly but in many cases you have to.

stator replacement
 

Albq2200

New Member
Just an FYI. Came out this morning and the bike is parked there, turned off, key in the house and all of my lights were on. Fiddled with it for a little bit. Only way I could turn them off was to unplug positive battery cable. This thing is driving me nuts. I need it reliable and safe to park at home or wherever. I think I am going to buy EHC , and get the VR and complete stator assy . Never seen anything like this before.
 
It's unfortunate but it sounds like the VR has already done it's damage. You may want to check the continuity on the key switch harness just to make sure it is not the harness but I suspect the issue is inside the EHC.
 
The only way the VR could damage any electrical components is if there was no fuse to protect the battery from a voltage spike (just as the recall specified back in 2006) and also on any of the EHCs or ThunderHeart modules do not have a 15 amp fuse protecting it from the battery, The new Big Dog still uses the 32 amp system its listed on the specifications if you go on their website you can see.
 
The only way the VR could damage any electrical components is if there was no fuse to protect the battery from a voltage spike (just as the recall specified back in 2006) and also on any of the EHCs or ThunderHeart modules do not have a 15 amp fuse protecting it from the battery, The new Big Dog still uses the 32 amp system its listed on the specifications if you go on their website you can see.
Not true.
The VR can have intermittent diode issues which can lead to straight AC voltage for a milisecond.
We've seen it first hand on a scope when it happens.
 

mleach72

Active Member
I'm not an electrician, but electricity moves at the speed of light. SOL=186,000 mi/sec. That's 186 mi/millisecond.
 
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