Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
If the voltage stays at 12.8 it's not charging. Check you Circuit Breaker if it's popped the VR won't charge the battery. It should have a small reset button on the underside.
Battery Question
- Thread starter awg
- Start date
Cesarpitbull78
Member
Is the button on the CB supposed to just hang down? I push it in but there’s no resistance. It just hangs
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
If you put an OHM meter across each side it should read continuity .
Cesarpitbull78
Member
Do I put the ground on the ground battery terminal and the positive on the cb line?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
the CB has two posts. Read across the Posts to see if it's open or you have continuity. If you can't read across the terminals it's open.
Cesarpitbull78
Member
Sorry Mike I’m not an electronic guy lol. So I put the positive reader on each post ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
I don't know what you mean by "positive reader". Set your meter to OHM and touch the leads together and you should see the needle move when they touch. If you have a digital meter it will beep or show a reading when the leads touch. Now all you are trying to do is see if inside the CB is open or not. Put one lead on the top terminal of the CB an one on the bottom side. If your meter moves or beeps it's good . Let me know if you understand
Cesarpitbull78
Member
Ok gotcha. I have a digital meter. I just get numbers increasing when I touch the terminals
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
OK now read the breaker and see if you get a reading or it shows open.
Cesarpitbull78
Member
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Just so I know we are on the same page. Does the meter show 000 when you touch the leads together also?
Cesarpitbull78
Member
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
OK that would indicate the CB is good. Since you are not getting an increase in voltage when the bike is running it's likely your VR is not good especially since it got wacked.
Cesarpitbull78
Member
Great. Thank you for your help man. I appreciate you. Enjoy your weekend bro.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Rottweiler
Well-Known Member
Cesarpitbull78
Member
This is not how it works technically, this is more how to look at volts made and who does WATT.
Say a harley 32amp stator works something like this. Magnetism is all about North and South. So say one sweep of half a 360° turn is 16v is N, and the other half sweep is 16v S. Add both up equals 32.
There are only two wires out of the stator. This is one long continuous wire wrapped around each metal core and is sent out as one wire in, one wire out equals N and S. So each is moving as a plus and minus or AC voltage out each wire equals 16v. So when that pulse is sent up the wire to the voltage regulator, it coverts AC to DC and chops off 1.6v of excess to ground equals 14.4v to the battery.
Again, this is just basic theory of E to show the components in action at the voltmeter. So key on, meter leads to the proper polarity to the battery posts. Thus, key on, [no run], the battery should remain at it's ideal number or 12.8v and not drop, feeding the EHC, dash, taillight, headlight, and coil. That says the battery can push out the volts with reserve and not drop in volts.
The starter motor is the test of a load out of the battery, to show how much reserve is held inside the battery. So the ideal 11.1v is how much volts it takes to feed the load [PUSH] out of the battery. As stated, a cell can deteriorate and drop that ideal 11.1v, where the 11 volts would show all cells being healthy to push the motor over.
So when you see the key goes on, it reads 12.8v or higher, tap the start button, you see the load brought down to 11.1v, the engine starts, the battery recovers to 12.8v, then the VR kicks in and shows 14.4v at idle.
Kind of see how the charging loop exposes itself just by watching the battery perform its process of start and run? It shows the battery cells are good, it shows the stator can push volts up the wire, and it shows the coverer box (VR) it can cut the volts to keep the battery from over charging.
A bent air fin is just that. It has to damage the black bake to cracked open, or has a bulge at the bake due to heat and that is when you see direct AC move to 16v at the meter to show the VR has failed at the cracked hit, or the baked boil, which renders the motherboard to fail and can no longer ground that 1.6v excess.
Playing with E, you always remove the ground cable off the battery first. And when installing a new battery, you always install the ground cable last. By just touching the positive to ground, it can smoke a remote ground wire up to it's connection point by that instant accidental tap of not removing the ground off the battery first.
So by watching the meter, you can pinpoint who in the loop has failed. 4v shows WATT? Make sense who is at fault?
1. Battery to VR: This would boil the battery acid and render cells burnt out = 4v.
2. Battery to Stator: This would show the battery cannot recover due to not output of AC = 4v.
3. Battery to Downtime: This would show acid to water separation due to sitting and not charging cells on the downtime.
This is the real definition of E.... "Magnetism: You cannot separate heat from the chemical reaction." Kind of see you need heat to cause the chemical reaction to stay mixed by charging it? Kind of see the bake boil due to heat and render the black box burnt out? Kind of see the many cores of the stator and it just takes one core to heat the coiled wires to melt the coating and make contact to itself, thus showing the stator grounding itself to the core, core being the ground, wire being the hot to make AC and renders that part burnt? Basic E theory.
Last edited: