The rider 1116
New Member
I have a 2004 bigdog ridgeback with a 107 and i have no spark cranks over with no problem at all i replaced the spark plugs wires and the module that the plugs go into
Module the plugs go into?.....u mean you changed the coil????
I have a 2004 bigdog ridgeback with a 107 and i have no spark cranks over with no problem at all i replaced the spark plugs wires and the module that the plugs go into
Welcome from NJI have a 2004 bigdog ridgeback with a 107 and i have no spark cranks over with no problem at all i replaced the spark plugs wires and the module that the plugs go into
The beauty of this module [coil] is when you can mount the coil 4 ways. Wire wise this where you do not need to twist the coil wires, but rather swap the two wires off their posts. So wire wise, there are usually 3:I change this
Hi Sven please explain how you expect this information to help The Rider 116 fix his no spark issue. In my opinion it would only confuse the crap out of him. If you are joking around I don't get it.The beauty of this module [coil] is when you can mount the coil 4 ways. Wire wise this where you do not need to twist the coil wires, but rather swap the two wires off their posts. So wire wise, there are usually 3:
1. Wire from the key switch. With key on, the (+) wire has to charge up the coil first.
2. The other side is hooked up to the cam sensor/set of points.
3. The optional tach wire is added to the (+) side of the module.
Hi Sven, I attached the correct WD for the 04 Ridgeback. According to this the Ignition module is powered by the EHC, gets its signal from the CamSensor which triggers the Duel fire coil. Both cylinders fire at the same time. The coil does need to be wired correctly though. If I'm wrong please correct me.Mike,
Point being, the wire down to the module is hot off the key. So he'd first run a test light to the coil side that shows who is hot from the key switch. If say the OP did not shoot the original photo and took a guess on the rewiring on the coil, then it's 180 out on the firing order where it wouldn't start, or letting you know if you hear it backfire, you swap around the wires. Crossing over the plug wires does the same thing... if... you wired it 180 out of sequence.
Coil could care less who fires first and at what position the coil is mounted. So if say the key wire down to the coil is hot, the new module is in question as in no spark. That's all he changed.
OK Sven, I'm convinced you are reading a different thread and responding on this one. Or you are in Torment Mode and baiting me into a Sven Spiral. I will bite one more time even though it seems Rider1116 is long gone. Whatever point you were trying to make with Top C, Lower C and the rest of it is lost on me. You may be speaking in some technical jargon I am ignorant of. If that's the case make your point in laymen terms so I can take you seriously or we can have a good laugh and move on to the next problem.Mike,
At the center hole, note the cam notch at 12 o'clock. Yes, coil fires really once out of a coil that is more or less wired as one spark.
What I think you are missing is the timing of each cylinder having a spark of their own. To me, the top C curve is longer than the lower C curve. So if you swapped plug wires, it would backfire more or less. That's why you swap the key/(+) wires so the spark plugs are not twisted over each other.
Schematic wise, tach is hot to coil, so both key and tach are on the one side of the coil, cam sensor wire is on the other lug. So say you could wire the tack to the cam sensor side and the coil remains hot and waiting, whereas you can't trigger the coil being hot at both sides of the lugs = No spark.