Yet another question, Charging related

mittens

Active Member
The bike has no start button either NO CONTROLS on the bars. just a key start.

Will be checking more. testing the stator too.
 

ChopperFred

Member
Mittens,

BigDogBro1 brings up a good point. The '04's came with a 30 amp circuit breaker between the voltage regulator and the battery. It has a reset button and is located under the seat (for Chopper model). If that breaker has popped then not juice is getting to the battery. Since your bike was rewired, the breaker may have been removed or replaced. When I installed the Wire Plus on my bike, I replaced this breaker with a fuse.
 

mittens

Active Member
Will chase wired from VR, and see if there is something in line breaker, or fuse. Thanks for the heads up.

Also local Battery place has Deka s for 96 bucks with warranty. so will probably run that once the testing is done.
 

mittens

Active Member
Update

so the bike has the Compu-Fire Voltager regulator on it.

I think its this part, looks like it anyway.
55130 1989-'99 B/T - 32 Amp Chrome Billet Case, OEM #74519-88A


Did the test on the stator, and its .1 Oms across the 2 pins. (PASS)
nether pin is grounded. (PASS)
Started bike, and 2.875v AC at idle.... (FAIL?)

So the sator is bad I guess? But working a little bit so maybe that why bike stays running just not charging good?

Or maybe the Rotor is bad and not spinning right cause of teeth?


Also rode for 20 miles, Voltage had dropped to 12.06 after the ride. So it's slowly sucking battery down... Ride 20 miles back home, 11.6v.. Time for charging system.
 
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mittens

Active Member
Curtis has been VERY helpful in this matter, and I placed an order for a new Rotor, and Stator, Primary seal, and inspection plate seal. Should be good to go, once I swap them out. Will update results as well, never know when someone else is searching for help
 

mittens

Active Member
Did not find a inline fuse, there is a breaker. Did not think to further test once we found the lack of power coming from the stator.
 

LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
yeh agree on a larger CCA battery. compression releases are a must have- I have a good Braile battery and even with the low compression my 107 motor had before rebuilding it, it would be hard to turn over without popping those suckers. of course a larger starter motor would help, but why bother just get those releases wired and working. good luck with fleshing the gremlins out- I've been on a similar path lately but engine related. and that turned into a very long story.. ;p

Make sure your grounds are all good- especially the ground on the motor / tranny to frame (braided cable), and also a thick ground from the starter body to the negative battery ground point on frame. that should be the same thickness cable as the negative battery cable. many times there is no added ground wire from starter to frame ground point of neg battery cable and that can lead to starter acting weak.

Always consolidate ground points when possible- it is better to have two or three main ground points for all wires vs grounding things all over the bike. The starter body ground cable and motor / tranny ground cable are the two most important.
 
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