woods .650 and deck work

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
I knew the original owner had changed the cam but all I knew was that he had put in a "mild" cam, which I didn't assume the .600 to be a "mild" cam. tx - you're absolutely right...it is not a straight comparison of one cam against another because of the jug work. It was good to hear he had also put rollers in, although I think they are still the TP rocker boxes.
Here are the TP boxes that are 4 bolt





S&S rockers

 

HDLARRY

Active Member
yeah I may not get the gain I was expecting hence why I said in my first post that I may have wasted my money. Having thought about it I don't think I have but time will tell. Larry, you don't need to run a cam in. Tx I hope you're right. Dave - I got the IST ignition to go in yet and Jakes HID light and oil filter. As soon as thats all done I'll get a video done. To be continued...
Lee,

Your right, if you just changed the cam it doesn't require much breakin.

Found some small vertical scratches in my cylinders when we opened it up. The reason for the breakin is we had to put new rings in after honing. Probably my fault breaking it in to hard when new. Also changed out the TP rocker boxes for S&S boxes and rockers. Had them take 0.043" off the barrels but they had to do 21.5 from the bottom and 21.5 from the top. This was to square up these surfaces with the bore that was running at a slight angle. It also got me back to zero deck height and added about 0.7 to the compression ratio. Should be about 10.4/1 now. That is likley where you are at with your compression if your now at zero deck height.

HDLarry, I could do your break in miles for you while you are working and she will be ready when you are? :cheers:
Knotso,

You can take it out after the breakin miles are on it and we have the carb setup on a dyno. Don't need anymore scratched cylinders.
 

lee

Well-Known Member
I took the bike out for a bit of a blast this afternoon before getting caught in a downpour. It runs real strong through the gears and feels very tight and solid. You hit the throttle you go. A definite gain over what I had before and am pleased with it. I may get it dynod for some fine tuning, or even just out of curiosity, when I get the ignition up and running. Don't get me wrong here - this is not a night and day difference as you seem to see in some claims / advertising on certain parts - I don't think any of the parts I've changed (triple x carb, S&S dual intake, exhaust, cam, decks) have made huge individual changes, but the package together is what makes the real difference.
 

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
Is there really a reason to cut the jugs down or can a good camshaft profile do the same thing that is raise the cylinder pressure up to make some good power with the proper head work done?
Neil in Tenn
 

Vegas

Well-Known Member
The advantage of raising the compression ratio is so you can run a larger duration camshaft and not lose as much low end grunt. A larger camshaft has more overlap which bleeds off cylinder pressure at low rpm causing poor response and performance.
Now in the case of the woods cam it may no be necessary but with the 640 S&S cam it would be. You really need to look at the specs and find out what the sweet spot for that particular camshaft is. 9.6:1 is plenty for most camshafts. My 600hp big block is at 9.6:1.
 
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