I happen to have a shiny new Ultima 2kw starter on my desk today, and lots of time to fuck off so I'll do a quick how-to. My Ipod charger will be standing in for a jumper wire. So you try to start your Big Dog, and nothing happens, or maybe you hear a click, or a lot of clicks, or maybe it just grinds. If you're at home, you run to the computer and ask the question on a forum, but what if you're out riding, or in the middle of nowhere? Everyone should practice push starting their bike, just to get a feel for it, but here's some things you can do to get it to turn. First some fast diagnostics. There is a little green wire with a blade connector going to a plastic plug on the top of the starter. If you have a voltage tester handy, pull that wire and test it for 12v when you hit the starter button. If you don't get any juice, or get a strange or low reading, then your problem is most likely further up the line. Dead battery, bad start button, bad EHC or relay. If you do get 12v, read on. While you have it pulled, press the start button again and listen at the compression releases on top of the motor, they should both click. On earlier models they will stay open as long as the start button is held, on later models they automatically release after a second or two. First make sure your fat black ground wire is still attached up at the upper mounting bolt. Sometimes these break off. The starter has a solenoid, and when you send a 12v signal to it, it pulls in a plunger type switch that opens a direct connection to the battery positive, giving the motor the battery's full cranking amps. This starter has a "slam button" on it, that allows you to manually force the plunger to make the connection. Everyone should have one of these, but I've never seen one that fits a DSSC starter. If you are stuck somewhere, and want to force that starter to turn, just take off the 3 bolts on the cover and shove that plunger in. You can use your thumb, but I prefer the handle of a screwdriver. If the contacts are all in place, and the starter has a good connection to +/- on the battery, and the battery is good, and there isn't something physically jammed in the jackshaft, it will have no choice but to turn. Alternatively, if you don't want to open up the starter, you can get the same result by jumping the two big lugs on the outside. Pull back the boots and use a piece of thick wire, 4ga is best, but I've done it with 6ga. You can use a screwdriver, but don't be timid or you may weld it to the contacts. You may have to bend the screwdriver to keep it from hitting the starter housing. Whatever you use, strap a set on and do it with conviction, don't be ginger. You've got around 300 amps flowing, and if the wire pops off or bounces around, you will end up with little arc strikes all over your shiny chrome. It's good to keep a piece of 4 or 6 ga wire in your toolkit for this purpose. It's a good idea to open your starter up every season and clean those contacts up with some sandpaper. There is a thread on it somewhere here. If your starter just grinds or whines, it's something mechanical at the jackshaft end. Make sure your mounting bolts are tight and in place. Next is to look inside the primary. I've seen a few jackshafts break off and found the gear laying in the bottom of the primary. Could also be that the gear stripped or the ring gear on the clutch basket stripped. Either way, before you just shove a new part in there, find the cause. Whether it's a loose clutch hub bolt, bad starter alignment, bad transmission shim, etc. Find the cause for the failure before you ruin another good part.