Do any of our forum sponsers sell the Cycle Electric CE-320 voltage regulator, or do you know of another good deal reliable source for the CE-320? These are a 32A "SERIES PASS" type regulators and NOT a SHUNT type. Don't use a shunt type VR. I want the CE-320 and nothing else. From Radio-Electronics.com Series voltage regulator basics The series voltage regulator or series pass voltage regulator uses a variable element placed in series with the load. By changing the resistance of the series element, the voltage dropped across it can be varied to ensure that the voltage across the load remains constant. The advantage of the series voltage regulator is that the amount of current drawn is effectively that used by the load, although some will be consumed by any circuitry associated with the regulator. Unlike the shunt regulator, the series regulator does not draw the full current even when the load does not require any current. As a result the series regulator is considerably more efficient. Shunt voltage regulator basics The circuit is designed so that at maximum load current the shunt regulator shunts or bypasses virtually no current to ground and at minimum load current, the shunt voltage regulator shunts or bypasses the full stator current to GROUND. As a result, it can be seen that shunt regulators are inefficient because maximum current is drawn from the AC stator source and SHUNTED to ground regardless of the load current draw. This causes the stator to run full output even when the battery doesn't need it. Thanks
Did you try an amazon search? [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Electric-Rectifying-Regulator-CE-320/dp/B000GV8VV8/ref=sr_1_242?ie=UTF8&qid=1378504842&sr=8-242&keywords=CE-320"]Cycle Electric Rectifying Regulator CE-320 : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]
My regulator is out and I need a new one. Does the ce320 have the right connectors or will I need to change it
What is the difference between the CE320 and the CE320L? [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Electric-Rectifying-Regulator-CE-320L/dp/B000GV3GAO]Cycle Electric Rectifying Regulator CE-320L : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]
CE-200 AND CE-300 SERIES Rectifying Regulators The CE-445 series is designed for use on all FL models with a 38 or 48 amp alternator and is offered in four styles. The CE-445 has threaded stud terminals to ensure reliable connections. It can be used with existing wiring or with a Cycle Electric wiring kit. The CE-445-97 is a CE-445 regulator with a CE-437 wire kit to fit all 97 to 01FLT/FLH models. The CE-445-02 has permeably connected wires and a mounting bracket for the stock stator plug. It fits 02-03 all FLT/FLH models. The CE-445-04 is the same as the -02 but has a connector on the battery wire used on 04-05FLH/FLT. All CE 200 series regulators (CE-203-CE-212) share the same internal circuitry. Each model has different wires and plugs to mate with a specific stock motorcycle.They are designed for use on 18 - 22 and amp systems. All CE-300 series regulators (CE-320-CE-345L)share the same internal circuitry. Each model has different wires and plugs to mate with a specific stock motorcycle.They are designed for use on 32 amp systems. The CE-204L CE-320L and CE-325L are specially tuned for hotter running batteries on Softails and customs with horse shoe oil tanks. CE-200, CE-300 CE-400 and CE-600 Series Rectifying Regulators for use with permanent magnet alternators. A more efficient approach to rectifying regulators. To control voltage on Harley-Davidson alternators other rectifier regulators dump current to ground. This causes maximum stator current and temperature at all times. Cycle Electric rectifying regulators block current to control voltage. This reduces stator current resulting in lower temperature and less drag on the motor which means more efficient operation. The largest and most noticeable benefit is a smoother charge to the battery. This means less battery maintenance and longer battery life. All Cycle Electric Regulators are built to last. We start with a rugged design capable of handling overloads and continuous operation. Then we use only top quality materials and military spec. assembly processes to ensure a low failure rate and the longest service life.
Yup. Cycle electric is a good place got mine from them. Arrived 2 days after the call. The difference between the 320 and the L is one is for open air batteries that get hot and can cool. The other us for batteries like mine (mastiff) where the battery is confined and can't cool as fast. I have a thread on that subject. I'll find it for ya.
Follow Up I finally get the Coyote to Guam and its been a series of issues trying to get it on the road (thankfully most the rain here is a like a lukewarm shower, lol). Currently the regulator rectifier has gone bad, the HD mechanic suggested the 201122C such as this one: https://www.denniskirk.com/accel/voltage-regulator-chrome.ph21041.prd/H21041.sku However, I knew there would be a thread on the BDM site with a bunch of great information. However, because this thread is a little old, I wanted to ask if there is there anything better than the CE320 or is this still the best available? Thanks in advance for the help. Mike
Hi Guys, I'm not that greatest at electrical and was wondering if there were any recommendations on the installation of a voltage regulator for my 05 Ridgeback. I was gonna order a CE320 VR from Cycle Electric as others have done on the forum but wasn't sure if I could splice the wires or just try and run them along the bottom of the frame. I, can someone explain where the wires are supposed to be connected, like I said I suck at electrical but can wrench. I'm assuming one goes to the battery and am not sure about the other.
Say the VR has 3 wires out of the box. 1. Two wires should have a plug attached and corresponds to the model of bike etc and enters the stator plug. 2. The longer wire heads back to a fuse, then that fuse is bolted to the (+) side of the battery. Say the VR has 4 wires out of the box. 1. The thinner wire with an eyelet is for grounding to the frame. 2. The two wires should have a plug for said model year. 3. The third [long] wire heads back to the (+) side of the battery w/fuse inline.
