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Discussion in 'General' started by bigkelk9, Oct 4, 2017.
And there ya go!
I spoke with s&s and they said they don' work on these engines.. and as far as being hopped up by s&s for big dog is wrong.. it's actually the opposite, they were dummied down quite a bit actually. All I did was get the specs from them as if I bought a crate 117.. increase horse power by about 30 horses.. lemme see.. YEAH!!
Ok.. tolerances being pushed and EPA specs are two different things
EPA specs are overcome by simple bolt on stuff such as exhaust intake cam etc not reworking machine work(unless necessary from mileage and wear)
No they lowered compression as well.
That it why we are decking the heads/jugs.
Thank you, the engines normally come with a 600 cam, different push rods, lower deck clearance, and the carbs are jetted different.. bolt on parts aren't going to give u back the 30 horses u loose.. John will chime in and help you understand better.. it actually runs better how it's supposed to be compared to EPA regulated..
Answer honestly are they not powerful enough??? I raced moticross many many years, engine mods = decrease in reliability I rebuilt dirt bike motors everybod not every other race, if you want reliability stick with stock s&s and other manufacturers aren't idiots now if your drag racing your dog in competition then have at it
If, and when you do decide you want to fix your issue, you can get in contact with me, and i'll make the necessary arrangements to schedule your work in my shop.
I appreciate your comments. Yes they are powerful enough for most.
Others, more is better. For me, I tore in to deal with the increasing valve train noise. Figure “while I am at it” mine as well reverse the EPA changes to get the power back.
That is where we disagree however. I don’t feel the mods will hurt reliability. This is a stock S&S configuration, aside for the head work I’m having John do.
Cool okay well I would think and I could be wrong but as soon as you have play in the shaft then the shaft is now just gonna keep wearing against that Bolt and get worse. They are hardened steel but once it wears it just gonna go.
Might behoove you to buy new shafts they are only $35 for all 4 and I'd get new bolts too see how that sounds. Would be a good experiment! Then maybe if you still hear stuff hopefully John will be able to confirm if the lockers fit and which one to get. But at least you got new shafts when you get it back together, hate how have to tear it back down for a $35 parts.
I believe you and Kel are fighting the same battle so will be good to get a resolution for you both.
Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
Here are the options I see to fix this.
1. Apply a press fit retaining adhesive. (Loctite has a few of these)
2. Drill and tap a for a set screw.
3. Cut a slit in one side of the housing so it will clamp down on shaft with bolt.
4. Find/make a press fit bushing. (Rocker Locker Solution)
I am amazed after all these years the OEM's have not addressed this deficiency.
I hear ya, but honestly I feel its just designed this way.
The shafts are in great shape, super tight the the rockers and the saddles. (Bike has ~20k on it BTW)
So this is what S&S suggested me to do before replacing bushings and all that.. it's not as loud as it was.. but still noisy.
What did S&S suggest?
Also, I have taken measurements and have sent them to Rocker lockers. I will let you let you know what I find out.
I tried and post a pic and it was too large, so I went to the tapaalk app and it's all different and I can't even navigate the damn site.. let me try again
Anything that makes an engine more efficient = longer life.(doesn't have to work as hard to get the job done).
Sometimes SIMPLE BOLT ON stuff makes the situation WORSE, ie: bolt a longer duration cam with a later intake closing on your 117" stock Dog, you'll prolly be able to run faster than the bike will go. Kinda like putting a band aid on a heart attack.
Usually major engine geometry is changed to pass EPA, and to correct it machine work is needed.
Another example is the new H.D. Milwaukee 8 engine. The production heads have such large intake, and exhaust ports, that if you port those heads you'll not gain much in power, and you'll lose a shitload of torque. The Screamin Eagle heads they sell in the aftermarket, have smaller ports, and respond well to porting. The production heads would be a good foundation for a 150 + cu. in. engine.
Thank you! I did a ton of research and spoke with a ton of sales people for specs and technical people to understand why before I did all this work. Unfortunately the machine work was great, but his diagnostics and measurements weren't on my rockers or I wouldn't still have this clock ticking on crack sitting on top of my engine. The only thing I did different from factory specs of a 117 crate engine was bored it over by .05 and install Carillo Pistons due to the jugs being egg shaped. Aside from That, the exact specs that S&S gave me were used and I'm sure as soon as I figure out this rocker issue, I'll be more then happy with her.
Finally got the tapatalk app to work.. So this is what s&s suggested, never thought about doing a set screw, thanks for that advice John, I'm sure that will do the trick and I'll be good to go. I'll do it this weekend and let you all know
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