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RIP problems still.

Discussion in 'Technical' started by prodiver, Sep 9, 2017.

  1. prodiver

    prodiver Member

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    Tried that several times and still no power to the module.
     
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  2. Th3InfamousI

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    FYI just edited my post I had originally quoted the wrong pin# should be #32 to turn ignition box on.

    I originally stated #31 which was the start Relay pin, which you will jump after #32



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  3. BWG56

    BWG56 Guru

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    :job:
     
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  4. prodiver

    prodiver Member

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    According to the wire pinout that I have #32 is the command kill switch.

    Tried what you said and nothing. The wire from pin 35 is red not what the wiring table says. The wire from pin 31 is also red and it stays this way to connecter 13 and from there it becomes the green wire from the handle bar controls. When I hit the run button there should be power on this wire and there is nothing. I assume this is why there is no power on pin 35. Is this telling me the PCB is bad. Appreciate the help. Thank you.
     
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  5. prodiver

    prodiver Member

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    The original short was in the annunciator and spedo. I replaced both of them before I even tried the new module and I would like to eliminate as much as possible before sending it back again.
     
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  6. Th3InfamousI

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    What wire is adjacent to the red (RUN) wire going to the hand Control is that pin #32 or #26? I can't remember it's been a year since I've had it apart. Either way that's the one you need to jump.

    Pin #31 should go to the Green wire in the control. That's your starter, that does you no good yet. You still need to activate the RUN cycle first!

    We have to remember that the thunderheart design is for latching not momentary switch so the Kill/Run is combined in the module. (Notice there is no RUN command wire in that diagram)

    And let's rule out the PCB. You have the tank off so unplug the connector under the tank and jump in manually.


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    #66 Th3InfamousI, Sep 27, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2017
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  7. prodiver

    prodiver Member

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  8. Th3InfamousI

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    Orange with a white strip should be on pin #26. With the connector undone jump that with the ground and see if you can get power to the ignition module. Only need to touch them for q second, don't leave it connected. That's the pin you need, sorry about that. Without the module in front of me I'm trying to go off memory and obviously not doing to hot but we got it figured out now.

    Ignition module light should turn on for a split second then off when you jump those pins.

    If you get it to illuminate try jumping the starter after and see if she runs. That's the wire off pin #31



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  9. prodiver

    prodiver Member

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  10. Th3InfamousI

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    If you jump the starter circuit can you get the starter to spin?

    I'm just trying to understand if the jump your doing is working correctly. Try that one the right turn signal. Cause both those worked, right?

    Not to sound stupid but you had the key turned on, right? And everything else is working

    I'd say if you can get the right blinker to work by jumping it then the problem is in that orange/white wire. Either it's shorted out OR where it's stuffed into the harness is unplugged.

    Do you have continuity between the wire at the plug and the end of the harness?

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    #70 Th3InfamousI, Sep 28, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2017
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  11. prodiver

    prodiver Member

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    No problem getting the starter to spin. It cranks over good. Just no power to the ignition module or the coil. Yes I did jump it with the ignition turned on. I do have continuity between the plug and the connector. I checked that first before I tried to jump it. I am running out of things to check. I guess the next thing I will try is bypassing the RIP module. Any help is much appreciated.

    I have replaced the Annunciator, Speedometer, Starter, Ignition Switch, Left and Right PCBs, Voltage Regulator, Headlight, Speed Sensor, Crank Position Sensor,Battery, Ignition Module, and the RIP EHC. at a cost of around $2,500.00 an unbelievable amount of my time and a few other mechanics. Every connection and wire has been checked and checked again for continuity and power from the RIP Module to the source and this goddamn bike still does not run unless I bypass the rip module and run a hot wire directly to the ignition module. When the RIP is hooked up to the ignition module it is only getting 4 volts to it. I am going to return the RIP to Big Dog and have it checked. It was purchased a month ago after they told me the one I sent them was fried. It took 3 weeks to have it tested. I hope they have a little better service this time.
     
    #71 prodiver, Sep 29, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2017
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  12. prodiver

    prodiver Member

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    Finally got the dam thing to run. After countless hours of tracing and testing wires I was still not getting power to the ignition module unless I bypassed the RIP. First RIP was fried after a year. Purchased new one and tried it. Still no power to ignition module. Sent it back had it tested and nothing wrong with it. For 4 months I have been testing and retesting and replacing expensive parts that I didn't need. A friend ask me to install an RIP in his bike and I told him about the problems I was having with mine. I hooked his harness up to mine and everything worked. His was exactly the same as mine but mine was not getting any power to the ignition module. Thinking I must have a bad wire in the harness that goes to the ignition so I took the harness apart and traced the wire and every goddamn wire in that harness and still could find nothing wrong. Hook his up and everything works fine. Hook mine back up and nothing. Same wires same hookup but my harness would not work. I was really getting frustrated and then I decided to take the little box at the end of his harness ( I don't know what it is called and have never heard anyone mention it) and I plugged it into my harness and everything worked. I assume that this is some sort of a plug for testing the harness at the factory and whatever is in that little black box at the end is burned out but it does not show any signs of being burned or damaged. In 50 years of riding and wrenching on bikes this is without a doubt the biggest pain in the ass I have ever had to deal with.
     
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  13. BadDawg Bill

    BadDawg Bill Well-Known Member

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    When will you guys learn that old skool wiring is the way to go. $600 and 8 hrs will get you a bike that you can depend on... It's like hitting your head on a pole thinking it won't hurt going after the "Easy way out scams". All the guys on here that are riding their oldskool bikes are laughing at you... Maybe you are just a glutton for punishment. I know i'm laughing.... :oldhardlaugh:90 years of old technology that works can't be wrong.....Throw all that "new technology " away and Buy some wire, breakers, bars and controls and ride or spend thousands and hours on new parts and sit in the garage wishin you were riding.

    Geez... most of the post on here are about electrical issues.... Isn't it time????
     
    #73 BadDawg Bill, Nov 21, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2017
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  14. prodiver

    prodiver Member

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    I have a 72 Shovel that I built back in the late 70s. I took first place with it in The Oakland Roadster Show in 1986 and I am still riding it. Much more reliable then the Big Dog.
     
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  15. BWG56

    BWG56 Guru

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    X2 Or buy a hardly cause nobody ever has any problems with them;)
     
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