Now this isn't meant to be a tell all of tire changing and it is certainly not for everyone but I just thought some of you might like to do this task yourselves, as I do because everytime a shop does it they F somethin up some how, and I just wanted to give a little insight on making it easier. While you don't see much blue painters tape in my photos I would highly recommend taping the crap out of everything. Tools are all the time gettin away and when they do "Dents and scratches will occur" if you don't use "Painters Tape". Use painters tape because the adhesive is lighter and does not leave a residue behind especially if you can't complete the task same day and you have to leave it on for a few days. Just a side note, Avon has a $25 rebate on right now for their Cobra and the older Venom Tires. The cheapest price I could find was at www.tirecave.com. I got a front MH90/21 and a rear 300 for 374 with free shipping which with the rebate is only 325. TireCave had my tires to me in one day but I think its because they came out of a warehouse in Los Angeles CA and I live in San Diego CA. When your tire looks like this its time for a new one So support the bike and the rear tire appropriately Of course you will need a reasonable work area to change the tire Now you can spend your money on the edge guards but I think a five gallon bucket produces much better guards Basic tools needed, and you will need (3) tire irons When you get the rear axle out it is a good time to mark the center to make tire alignment easier when you reassemble. A micrometer and a steel center punch will work A long stem straight punch makes it a little easier to get the axle out Be careful about your spacers, pay attention to which one goes where and now is a good time to give them a good polishing Dont' forget to remove your caliper Now gently slide your tire forward and down and slide the belt off and pull your tire out Now, using an air valve core remover, remove the valve core. Be careful if your not careful the core will shoot out on you and you might not be able to find it. Not a problem if you have spare cores buttt..... Now the fun starts The first thing you want to do is get yourself a 4 x 4 wood post and three screws. Preferably drywall screws. Cut one end of the 4 x 4 at a 22-1/2 degree angle, it doesn't have to be exact but I found it works very well at that angle Insert the screws about a 1/2" in on one side. Screw them straight in do not angle them Now take your small bottle jack, the smaller the better, drill a couple holes in the base and screw it to the opposite end of the 4x that you put the screws into. Pay attention to the direction you face the pump of the jack in relation to the angled end of the 4 x as you want the pump facing you so you can easily reach the lever Now lets setup the bead breaking base, line it up under a rafter in your garage or other solid surface you have access to. It could even be the bumper of your lifted four X just cut everything to fit Put 4 short 2 x 6 wood blocks on the floor to support the rim and to keep you from mdamaging your pulley or for you narrow tire guys your brake disk rotor and cover with a blanket Now insert the post against the tire as shown below, use one of the slick protectors you made earlier as shown, and lay a blanket over the wheel Now I am tall so it is easy for me to reach the bottle jack you may need a short ladder. So begin pumping up the jack and Wah Lah the beed is broken. Now flip the tire and repeat. Now lets get busy getting that tire off Put the tire up on your work place Now I am sure there will be others here who have different ideas about the solution you use to spray down the tire in order to ease getting it off and on but I can only give you my personal experience. I use a citrus based cleaner solution water down a bit. I like this stuff the best because it is slicker than any other stuff I have used, including WD40, when the solution drys it is sticky so it adds a bit of extra grab at the tire edge to help prevent minute air leaks that occur occasionally with these rims, especially if you don't prep the rim's bead properly and as an additional bonus it does a great job of cleaning the rim whene you rinse it all off after the install. Okay so you have sprayed the tire edge and inner rim lip really well with your citrus solution. Take your first tire protector and stick it between the tire and rim and insert your tire iron so the bent tip hooks the edge of the tire. If you will note I am using the curved end of the iron with the bent tip facing the tire. Now pull the iron out towards you. Watch the protectors and keep them in place. This portion of the process is way easier with a helper Now repeat the above process with your 2nd iron and continue this process until you have enough of the tire off to finish pulling it off by hand Now flip the tire over and repeat the process from the opposite side to remove the tire completley from the rim Now is a good time to inspect those bearings and replace if neccessary We want to spend a little time now prepping the inner bead so you get a nice tight seal when you install the new tire. Using a wire wheel on your cordless go all the way around the inside of the rim at the bead and the edge of the wheel and give it a good thorough cleaning. If you have any nicks or gouges in the aluminum at the inner edge of the outer portion of the wheel then now is a great time to file and sand those out so they don't cause any micro air leaks. Now is also a great time to polish the wheel assembly. Now lets put the new tire on the rim Look closely at the side wall of your new tire. THEY ARE DIRECTIONAL, and there will be a little arrow telling you which direction the tire must rotate. Don't screw this up or you will put your new tire and yourself at RISK. The first edge of the tire is easy it will go on by hand if your not a girly man, or handicapped, you might need one tire iron to get the last inch or so Now is a good time to install your Dyna Beads but you must be careful through the rest of the tire install to avoid pouring them out. You will note I marked my bottle to make it easier to establish the amount I am putting in. Now getting the other side of the tire on. This is a bit tricky but just take your time and BE CAREFUL Get the first 20 inches or so of the tire edge pushed down overr the rim. Now take a large wood clamp, preferably a plastic clamp to help avoid damage to your wheels, and place it in he middle of that 20 inches or so you just pushed on and tighten it down. You only need to tighten it enough so that the tire will slide into the deep portion of the rim. You need that little extra to get this tight puppy on the rim. For this next section I must apologize because my helper had to leave and I was left finishing this part of the tire install myself so I was unable to get photos of the tire iron work here. Continue pushing the tire on by hand until you can't go any further. Now install your protector between the tire and the rim on one side where you could not get anymore of the tire over the rim and insert your iron this time with the bent tip of the curved end facing the rim. Remember last time it was facing away to get the tire off. Now push the iron in over the rim. Now repeat this process on the opposite side where you could not get the tire on any further. Remember to lay your blanket over the wheel before starting so if your iron gets away from you, and it very well may, you don't cause any damage to the rim. Also make sure that the clamp side of the tire works its way down into the deep portion of the rim. This is where a helper comes in really handy. Using your third iron and a protector slowly start working your around the rest of the tire an INCH at a time. Initially you will be able to use you protectors but the last 4 inches or so you will have to use bare irons but fear not if you are careful you can do this without causing any damage to your wheels. I did it so I know you can. Okay I admit I did cause one very minor scratch that took me all of twenty minutes to sand out with 2400 grit wet paper and buff it back to a mirror finish with Mother's Billet. I can tell you though that had my helper been there the scratch would not have happened. And with that last little bit of effort your tire is on Easiest way to seal the tire so it doesn't leak while setting the bead. Take a ratchet tie strap, wrap it around the middle of the tire and hook it end to end. Now tighten it down just enough to prevent air from leaking while you seat the bead. Install your valve core and inflate the tire to approxiamtely 60 PSI. It may take a little more for your tire but when you hear a couple of loud pops and both sides of the tire are completely flush with the rim you ar there. Reduce the tire pressure to 42PSI or whatever your tire requires. Now take your Citrus cleanier solution and spray the tire at the edge of the rim where the rim meets the tire and make sure you have no leaks. If your rim is not bent or out of true and you cleaned it up earlier like I told you you will have a leak free tire installation. Now just hose the wheel down and your left with a nice clean wheel. Now reinstall the wheel to the bike in reverse order of removal. I am not going into installation details because if you are doing this kind of work then you better have a Service Manual to refer to.