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Pushrod Adjustment: How-To with Pics

Discussion in 'How-To' started by chacha, Sep 4, 2007.

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  1. chacha

    chacha Chaff Your EHC!!
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    Rhino wrote;
    I've never needed to try, but I don't think there would be room with the stock one. I know there are several aftermarket rods that are made to add without removing the rockers -- you take bolt-cutters to the old ones and put the new ones up the tube.

    Do you need to remove the pushrods and lifters to make a cam change on the S&S???
     
  2. V

    V Guru

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    If you're gonna pull the push rods you will need to cut them and replace them witha time saver type of push rod. But for a simple cam change you don't need to pull the push rods. Just shorten them and get the lifrts up to the highest point so you can pull out old cam and install new. No matter what you do you will still have to get the lifters up in there bore:D
     
  3. RRRUFF

    RRRUFF Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Cha Cha!!:cheers: :2thumbs:
    Great "how to". I have never done this on a vtwin with hydraulic lifters. I was a little confused about where to start though. You have to roll the engine over to where the opposing valve (exhause or intake) is at the high side on the cam or valve fully open, then adjust the opposing valve (exhaust or intake) on that cylinder. First you shorten the pushrod to allow the lifter to extend fully (approximately 4 to 5 turns) then lengthen the pushrod to hand tight against the lifter, 0 lash. Next lengthen the pushrod to the 18 flats or 3 turns. Lock down the jam nut and wait 10 to 20 minutes to allow lifter to bleed down. Being able to rotate the pushrod by hand is a safety check to be sure you did it right. Again thanks to all who post these great "how to's" especially those with pictures.
     
    #23 RRRUFF, Oct 6, 2008
    Last edited: May 26, 2009
  4. lost ironworker

    lost ironworker New Member

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    Thanx for stopping the madness

    Bro I've been pulling my hair out on my first tear-down and re-build. With my kid helping me I'ts been challenging at best but you sure saved my sorry ass!:flag: Blue skies and ride hard!
     
  5. bad chad

    bad chad Member

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    quick questoon

    on step 10 ......... it reads when you get to rod you want to work on be sure to collapse the lifter nut not anything else. what exactly does that mean than it goes on and saids to get rod finger loose?????? is the end of part ten collapse the lifter nut???
     
  6. RRRUFF

    RRRUFF Well-Known Member

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    bad chad,
    You shorten the "push rod" and allow the hydraulic lifter to rise/expand and wait to be sure the lifter is fully expanded. Then "lenghten" the "push rod" by hand until you feel a slight drag. This is "0 lash". Then lenghten the push rod 3 or 4 turns for the correct adjustment. Wait for the lifter to bleed down and the push rod will turn freely by hand/finger. Then lock every thing down. Be sure to rotate the rear wheel by hand when you are finished to be sure nothing is binding.
     
  7. PackedFunk

    PackedFunk Banned

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    Lifters

    Good job. The only thing I had a problem with was the use of that crescent wrench. Sorry, but a crescent wrench has no use on a bike, especially not engine components.:spank:
     
  8. Five Five

    Five Five Well-Known Member

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    nice write up dude...love the push rod cover holders (rubberband paper clip) never thought of that....cresent wrench hmmmmm ??
     
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