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Pushrod Adjustment: How-To with Pics

Discussion in 'How-To' started by chacha, Sep 4, 2007.

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  1. chacha

    chacha Chaff Your EHC!!
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    I finallly got around to uploading this from last month. A couple of things;

    1) there is more than one way to do this -- find one YOU like and stick to it. This works for me.
    2) This is intended to show folks this can be done yourself -- it's don't take special equipment or a dealer, but realize if you really F it up, you can trash your engine (you'd pretty much have to Fuck up Royaly on this, put it's possible).
    3) There is a ton of information on this here in the forum, in the Tech Manual and in the S&S Service manual. You have both of those right? :D

    1. OK, here we go. Start with a COLD engine. (Not warm, not kinda cool, but COLD).
    2. Remove the sparkplugs. You're going to be turning the engine over and pressing against a closed cylinder is no fun...besides no plug means no surprize starts,

    [​IMG]

    3. Clear the area around the pushrod covers of stuff that will get in your way, like the carb overflow line, the aircleaner if you got a honking huge one like me, the cat, your beer, etc.

    4. Pop off the pushrod clips off with a flathead screwdriver in the spots in the pics. They come off easy, but go on hard.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    5. This is what you'll see with the clip removed, this whole cover assembly can now collapse up to the rocker box.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    6. Remove all four clips and keep the pushrod covers collapsed up to the rockers. I use two methods, rubberbands and paperclips or a leather cord. One guy uses velco and that works dang good too...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    7. Back off the locking nut on the lifter side, NOT the pushrod side.
    [​IMG]

    8. The idea here is that you are adjusting the rod WHEN THE MATCHING VALVE IS CLOSED. This is the important thing to remember. There are several ways to get to that point and the manuals and forum threads talks about several. For the front cylinder, there is a easy method. Both rods will be at their lowest point (valves closed for Compression stroke) and the flywheel marking "T.F." can be seen in the timing hole on the left side.
    Timing bolt (120 in torque)
    [​IMG]
    Bolt out and marks exposed
    [​IMG]

    9. I tend to use the pushrod travel method, so place the tranny in 4th or 5th and rotate the rear tire and pay attention to the pushrod travel. Remember, facing the pushrods, the exhaust rods are to the outside and the intake rods are to the inside. I do Exhaust first and then intakes, but that's just me. I rotate the tire until the front exhaust is at the highest point, then I adjust the rear exhaust. Then I work my way around like that.

    10. When you get to a rod you can work on, be sure to collapse the lifter nut not anything else. You want to get the rod assembly finger loose. Once that is done, I hold the rod and begin to extend (turn to left) the lifter nut until the rod just becomes just unturnable, but no more. This is the "Zero lash" point discussed in the procedures.
    [​IMG]

    11. From this point, I extend the lifter nut three turns (or 18 flats - nut has six sides 3x6=18). You can go four turns, but I've been happy with three. What you are doing is trying to extend the pushrod assembly into the midpoint of the lifters adjustment range.

    12. Let the rod sit for 10-20 minutes while the lifter bleds down. At the end of that, the rod should rotate freely.
    [​IMG]

    13. Lockdown the locking nut of that rod and move on to the next one and do it again.
    [​IMG]

    14. This takes some time, but is not hard to do. You just want to be sure you're doing it right. Some good advice I got from others -- take you time and check everything several times. If it doesn't seem right, or the lifter doesn't bled down, do it again from the top for that rod. Check to be sure you have no piston or valve clash -- this is that Royal F'd up part that can damage your engine. Rotating the engine with the tire should tell you if you've screwed up...you'll probably hear or feel an odd stop. Take you time....I've never heard of anyone screwing this up, but it's possible.

    15. Find some pretty girls and go for a ride! :2thumbs:

    [​IMG]
     
    #1 chacha, Sep 4, 2007
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2007
    Vin Cent, Bdm4ever, raeggis and 2 others like this.
  2. Tim

    Tim a.k.a. BubbleHead
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    Awesome write-up, thank you!! :2thumbs:
     
  3. P8RIOT

    P8RIOT Well-Known Member
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    Nice job, chacha - great pics, and very clear descriptions.
     
  4. Gas Man

    Gas Man Cool isn't cheap
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    Awesome write up and something I have yet to try. I'm printing it and adding to to my manual. TNX!!
     
  5. Raywood

    Raywood The Pirate
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    Okay, technical question. Aren't you suppose to let the lifters bleed down before you adjust them? And if not how do you ensure they are pumped up fully before setting your 18 flats. Or how many times do you have to turn the motor over to ensure they are pumped full before you set them? Or does it matter?
    Guess I'm used to my mechanical lifters I had on my old Shovelhead!
    Here we set the lash to zero then gave them one turn for good measure!!!
    Haven't touched the lifters my motor and after 42,000 miles not sure if I want to f*ck with them if you know what I mean.
    Just wondering about the bleed down.

    Later,
    Ray
     
  6. Oscar Maldonado

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    That was a good write up. I'm pretty good at wrenching but I can tell you that I don't think I can do this one. I know my luck, It's something I don't push if I don't have to.:D
     
  7. chacha

    chacha Chaff Your EHC!!
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    Raywood Wrote;

    hadn't heard that. Would be kinda hard since you have to rotate the engine to align the valves so they're going to get some oil in them. I THINK (don't know for sure!) that extending the rod, pushes the lifter down to the point in the middle of the adjustment range. Then it's a wait to see if you got it right after it fully bleds down. I know some of mine bled down faster than others....

    Oscar -- Come on buddy, you can do it! It's only an engine man :cheers:
     
  8. Oscar Maldonado

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    It just to have the time to do it. Alright - I'll give it a whirl when it's time. Rest assure when the time comes i'll be doing some serious posting.:lol:
     
  9. Gas Man

    Gas Man Cool isn't cheap
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    chacha... I like the arrows... you might be forcing me into steppin up the game with some too.
     
  10. Raywood

    Raywood The Pirate
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    Okay, thanks sul. I've put a lot of miles on my two evo motors and never had a problem but sure wasn't that way with my Shove! :argue:

    Anyone know of a good single line diagram or internal photo of any kind of hyd lifter?

    Thanks,
    Ray
     
  11. ChuckRB05

    ChuckRB05 Active Member

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    re

    How often should you adjust your pushrods?
     
  12. chacha

    chacha Chaff Your EHC!!
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    I think the book calls for 500, 5000, then every 2500 there after. I only do it if they sound noisy...
     
  13. Raywood

    Raywood The Pirate
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    I just looked this up in both the 05 BD Manual and the S&S manual and it doesn't list any intervals. It does state in the BD manual "if you have excess noise then add six sides (1 turn) to them"

    Later,
    Ray
     
  14. URBAN CAMO

    URBAN CAMO Member

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    THANKS A MILLION:up: I KNEW I WAS IN THE RIGHT PLACE:cheers:
     
  15. Alicat

    Alicat Hanging out

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    Great job ChaCha!
     
  16. pisssed

    pisssed pisssed

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    Chacha great info
     
  17. backon

    backon Member

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    Great read:up:
     
  18. slowrower

    slowrower 2007 Mastiff

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    Nice work Chacha ... adding this to my manual. Love the photos! :2thumbs:
     
  19. rhinoevans

    rhinoevans Active Member

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    Looking at doing a cam. Can the pushrods be removed without pulling the rockers and heads by just adjusting the rods to their smallest lenght?
     
    #19 rhinoevans, Aug 9, 2008
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2008
  20. scubaman15

    scubaman15 Well-Known Member

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    Wow Chacha great job !!! If you have never done a how to ..it takes some time ,to do it like that takes even more :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :cheers:
     
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