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Oil change question?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Pitbull08117, Nov 5, 2017.

  1. Pitbull08117

    Pitbull08117 Member

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    Why does it say in the owner's manual not to drain the crankcase? I've been changing my own oil for years but only in my vehicles, never on a motorcycle. My bike is a 2008 Pitbull, and I am changing the fluids for the first time, maybe ever. The bike only has about 3k miles on it, and I'm not 100% sure the PO ever changed the oil. It is draining as I write this, extremely black and thick. Also, the oil was low, maybe down 1/2 quart. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
     
  2. Pitbull08117

    Pitbull08117 Member

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    Also, I purchased an Amsoil filter, one quart of V-twin primary fluid and one quart V-twin tranny fluid. I decided to go with the HD dinosaur oil, only because my guy who maintains my other bike (07 Electraglide) said the the EVO engines didn't do well with synthetic oil, in that it could cause a leak.
     
  3. dentdude36

    dentdude36 Guru

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    That crank drain is easy to strip or cross thread not worth the chance when you'll only get 3-4 oz out of it
     
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  4. dentdude36

    dentdude36 Guru

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    Make sure trans is 75w 140 full synthetic and only 20 oz and primary do not use synthetic
     
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  5. Pitbull08117

    Pitbull08117 Member

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    The oil I purchased for the primary is Amsoil full synthetic, don't use it? What would you recommend? Don't use synthetic in the tranny either?
     
  6. dentdude36

    dentdude36 Guru

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    Use synthetic in transmission for sure not synthetic in primary
     
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  7. Pitbull08117

    Pitbull08117 Member

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    I have some Rotella 15-40 oil here, would that work? Seems like I used it in a dirt bike one time. Apologies for all of the questions, but I'm new to this and don't want to mess anything up. I could run out to Advance and get something for the primary, being that it's Sunday afternoon and they would be the only ones open.
     
  8. HMAN

    HMAN Well-Known Member

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    fk it
  9. dentdude36

    dentdude36 Guru

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    75w 140 synthetic for trans nothing else
     
  10. Pitbull08117

    Pitbull08117 Member

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  11. Brandon Downey

    Brandon Downey Active Member

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    :agree: get the Rogue Chopper oil scavenger. It's worth the $69 to get the last bit of dirty oil out during your oil change.
     
  12. dentdude36

    dentdude36 Guru

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    Hd mineral primary oil for primary or any mineral primary oil, synthetic will cause clutch slip
     
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  13. Pitbull08117

    Pitbull08117 Member

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    Thanks for the 'why' of not using the synthetic in the primary. I just ordered the Scavenger kit, thanks for the help!
     
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  14. njbiker20088

    njbiker20088 Active Member

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  15. Pitbull08117

    Pitbull08117 Member

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    Does anyone use the Amsoil V-twin transmission fluid in there bikes?
     
  16. bdm7250

    bdm7250 Guru
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    Make it simple, no primary fluid...
    IMG_9460.JPG
     
  17. Pitbull08117

    Pitbull08117 Member

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    Maybe one of these days!!
     
  18. BWG56

    BWG56 Guru

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    Blah Blah Blah, it does look sweet though:old2: and shinny :whoop:
     
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  19. Coolbreezin

    Coolbreezin Active Member

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    I did a lot of research regarding best or most used primary fluid. I read a lot about people using Trick Shift automotive tranny fluid.
    I was unable to get neutral while sitting still with my old tranny fluid (yes, the clutch was adj correctly). When I did the first the primary change to the Trick Shift, it was total magic. I was able to get neutral and the over all shifting was soooo much smoother. I did read that auto tranny fluid does not give the lubrication that regular primary fluid does, but those that did use it love it and also put in their HDs. Good enough for me. I now swear by this stuff.
     
  20. SMCT

    SMCT Active Member

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    Due to the thick viscosity of the engine oils for these and Harley motorcycles, it's best that they be nice and warm/hot before doing your oil change. Schedule that change accordingly and leave yourself that half hour or so after a good long ride. The oil is thin at this point and most of it will come out. Remove three items. The oil tanks drain plug. The crankcase drain plug and the oil filter. In that order. With the oil filter off and your tank and case drain plug back into place, fire that engine up and allow it to run for about 15 to 18 seconds. That's right, without any oil in it. you will notice that it will start to pump out the remaining oil out of the filters housing. You won't hurt anything by doing so for this short period of time, but what you will do is get out about another 1/4 of a quart of old oil. Since these only hold about 2-3/4 total, that 1/4 of a quart can contaminate that new oil by mixing with it. Checking these engines cold is kinda useless. They need to be nice and warmed up. When completely warmed up, with a little above idle and on the stand, **you want it just at the bottom of the elbow.

    Idle vs just above idle: at idle this engines don't scavenge well, so that means your getting a false reading whereas as portion of that total oil is in the crankcase. When off idle, the scavenge side of the pump picks up speed and puts more up in the oil tank. If your filled at idle, you can go overfilled at slightly off idle and better.

    **Not sure if the oil tank construction is the same on the Pitbull as it is on the K9. This oil level area pertains to K9.
     
    #20 SMCT, Nov 6, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2017

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