Magnum steel braided spark plug wires

Gathering
We kinda need both 90 degree boots. And I looked them up and can't find any, which is odd...



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After reading on their website they can build them to spec. I plan on calling them to find out if the can do the 90 on both sides of the plug


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PROFLYER

SWOLE
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
I'd stay away from those. I had issues with a set in the past that gave me all sorts of odd problems. It wasn't until I did some of the 8mm silicone wires that they went away. I can't remember what they're called or what the certain spec is but there's a certain type of plug wire that the bike really needs. Some resistance measure of some kind I think.
 

francoblay1

The Spaniard
I'd stay away from those. I had issues with a set in the past that gave me all sorts of odd problems. It wasn't until I did some of the 8mm silicone wires that they went away. I can't remember what they're called or what the certain spec is but there's a certain type of plug wire that the bike really needs. Some resistance measure of some kind I think.
RFI suppression.
 

awg

Well-Known Member
I remember wires called Twisted? I think. They seemed to be ok. I have read that some plug wires won't work very well.
 

francoblay1

The Spaniard
.... It is common knowledge amongst automotive electrical engineers that it is unwise to use ignition wires fitted with grounded braided metal sleeves fitted over ignition cable jackets on an automobile engine. This type of ignition wires forces its cable jackets to become an unsuitable dielectric for a crude capacitor (effect) between the conductor and the braided metal sleeves. While the wires function normally when first fitted, the cable jackets soon break down as a dielectric, and progressively more spark energy is induced from the conductors (though the cable jackets) into the grounded metal sleeves, causing the ignition coil to unnecessarily output more energy to fire both the spark plug gaps and the additional energy lost via the braided metal sleeves. Often this situation leads to ignition coil and control unit overload failures. It should be noted that it is dangerous to use this style of wires if not grounded to the engine with grounding straps, as the outside of the braided cables will be alive with thousands of volts wanting to ground-out to anything (or anybody) nearby....

https://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm

I´ve been using the Magnecor R-100 without a problem for many years.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
I remember wires called Twisted? I think. They seemed to be ok. I have read that some plug wires won't work very well.
Twisted works if you don't have the EHC or PDM. I had tach issues on my bike with a PDM and just changed to Taylor wires and problem went away.

I run the twisted wires on my ridgeback though with no problems and that had the WP and ESC. No issues on either unit





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PacoPetty

Well-Known Member
I'd stay away from those. I had issues with a set in the past that gave me all sorts of odd problems. It wasn't until I did some of the 8mm silicone wires that they went away. I can't remember what they're called or what the certain spec is but there's a certain type of plug wire that the bike really needs. Some resistance measure of some kind I think.
I had major problems when I put them on my. bike and as soon as I took them off the problems stopped. I loved the way they looked and if they could work out the bugs I would definitely put them back on
 

PacoPetty

Well-Known Member
.... It is common knowledge amongst automotive electrical engineers that it is unwise to use ignition wires fitted with grounded braided metal sleeves fitted over ignition cable jackets on an automobile engine. This type of ignition wires forces its cable jackets to become an unsuitable dielectric for a crude capacitor (effect) between the conductor and the braided metal sleeves. While the wires function normally when first fitted, the cable jackets soon break down as a dielectric, and progressively more spark energy is induced from the conductors (though the cable jackets) into the grounded metal sleeves, causing the ignition coil to unnecessarily output more energy to fire both the spark plug gaps and the additional energy lost via the braided metal sleeves. Often this situation leads to ignition coil and control unit overload failures. It should be noted that it is dangerous to use this style of wires if not grounded to the engine with grounding straps, as the outside of the braided cables will be alive with thousands of volts wanting to ground-out to anything (or anybody) nearby....

https://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm

I´ve been using the Magnecor R-100 without a problem for many years.
Franco, this is exactly the problem I had!
 
I'd stay away from those. I had issues with a set in the past that gave me all sorts of odd problems. It wasn't until I did some of the 8mm silicone wires that they went away. I can't remember what they're called or what the certain spec is but there's a certain type of plug wire that the bike really needs. Some resistance measure of some kind I think.
Do you run the stock ehc ?


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MossBerg590

Active Member
I have Taylor Thundervolt wires on mine, 10mm and red. I think a red set would look sick with your build. I also use the Taylor thundervolt wires on my pickup and wires durango..great wires and good price
 

LHS

Member
Supporting Member
Is that metal braiding on there or is that nylon braiding ? If it’s nylon braiding and they can put 90° boots on each end that be awesome. Nice Franco straight facts love it. I put stainless covered braided Ignition wires on my race car one time And spent weeks chasing all kinds of problems. It would not have been so hard to find the problem if I had put on just the wires but I put on a new MSD ignition system complete . Distributor /digital 6AL /new timer step box /coil /all the wiring / etc.etc. Fortunately I f#%ked up one of the wires so I Took the pretty wires off put on a set of Accel 8.8 mm ignition wires I had in the shop and to my surprise the problems went away.
 
Is that metal braiding on there or is that nylon braiding ? I tried to look them up and I can’t find them anywhere. But if it’s nylon braiding and they can put 90° boots on each end that be awesome. Nice write up Franco straight facts love it. I put stainless braided Ignition wires on my race car one time And spent weeks chasing all kinds of problems took the wires off putting different set on problems waterwa and spent weeks chasing all kinds of problems took the wires off putStandard ignition wires back on and all my problems went away
Check this out

https://www.magnumshielding.com/Ignition-Wires


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Is that metal braiding on there or is that nylon braiding ? I tried to look them up and I can’t find them anywhere. But if it’s nylon braiding and they can put 90° boots on each end that be awesome. Nice write up Franco straight facts love it. I put stainless braided Ignition wires on my race car one time And spent weeks chasing all kinds of problems took the wires off putting different set on problems waterwa and spent weeks chasing all kinds of problems took the wires off putStandard ignition wires back on and all my problems went away
After reading I don’t think the braiding is steel



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heybaylor

Active Member
why would anyone put on a set of plug wires that the voltage is looking for a ground path?
seems like the best ground path is at the plug gap
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
My twisted wires have worked fine on my Ridgeback with Wire Plus.

I would hope the braided ones aren't steel because I know my wires rub against my Engine Cooling fins!
 
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