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Discussion in 'General' started by garyb69, Nov 9, 2014.
First: Pipes getting cherry red and glowing isn't normal.
You are running way too rich or somehow gas is getting into your exhaust (maybe bad valves)
Second: You should never rev up a bike until it is up to around 195* because the heads if too cool aren't expanded and you will blow a head gasket.
Third: Let the bike warm up at around 1000 rpm for around 5 minutes and then take it easy for the first 3 -5 miles.
You defiantly have a problem there bro... check it out....
You need to ride the bike and watch to see if the pipes glow when you ride it and it's hot, before wrapping the pipes up so you can't see it!
If you wrap the pipes and have issues you won't see that there is a problem until you melt a piston down. !!! And you need to take it out and ride it about ten minutes then pull the plugs to read them.
Do as you wish, but I would correct the issue before I mask it by Wrapping the pipes. Otherwise wrapping pipes before you fix the issue isn't fixing the problem.
And no pipes turning bright red isn't normal.
WOW i have never seen that with general riding, only ever on a dyno or a drag bike.
Hot yes, glowing red.............never in 40+ years.
You definatly have a problem with mixture or timing, That said your plugs look fine to me.
Yeah and he said it was idling, not even riding the bike...
Gary, those plugs look great! Be very careful what you read on the net, question it, and I mean question it. There are some wild answers here so you just pick what you like. Remember, you question their science against your science. Here is how it rolls.
1. This is my first air cooled bike and who knew we would change the oil and my buddy would show me his orange collector starting to glow on his water cooled bike. Now, this is a racing titanium pipe and they use this material, because it acts the wrap, meaning, it gets hot so the glow is forcing the hot air to move out the pipe.
a. Work the science. It stood there and air is suppose to cool that head of yours, which btw is the hottest part of the engine. So there is heat dissipation and it had to follow out the pipe, down the cylinders, etc.
b. No matter, your time was letting the bike heat up and not cool thru the air, follow the heat transfer. Sound logical?
c. Some have said this is not right and now you need to ask them to bring in the science why that pipe came glowing knowing there might be silence and that answers that question.
Does my bike start right up? Yes.
Does my bike have a flat spot or lags? No.
Does my bike purr right along without a hiccup and find a crisp response up and down the rpm range? Yes.
If those are your answers, there is no timing problem, no jetting problem, no compression problem: just by reading the plugs. I want my reality to be wrong so someone is right.
Look at the side electrode tips. Gray-brown, not brown, not gray, where the photo is close enough from here. The porcelain tips are right on the money to me. Just by the [surface observation] at it alone should answer those questions. The right way to read a plug is down the porcelain right at the bottom. Still, the way that looks, even with the hot idle/revs misreading the plug's surface buildup, show me the problem/damage.
Look at the black soot. Dry as a bone. Didn't I ask if that bike smokes? I bet not a drop, just normal gas washing a little off the wall, and a tiny suck out the valve guides. That still says, dry and not a sign of wetness: like something overcooked the rings/valves/guides/piston heat score.
Look at the plug's threads. Dry one more time up the compression push and those tiny gaps of a path. And I'm sure they've seen that kind of wetter oiled plug surface, and wet kind of oil heading up the threads. But these plugs came out of one healthy engine is my guess.
Look at where we are at:
Prove to me it runs like crap... I'd change the plugs with new ones, since they were pulled. They look done to me. Look at the center electrodes. Neither match each other so they are worn.
Prove to me the cylinder chamber area is damaged due to that hot pipe that happened for 10 minutes> and it damaged that engine? Show me.
Prove to me Gary, this bike runs tits... And all you did was play with the bike a little too long with it standing still.
I today decided to brave the cold, put my mind at rest and go for a ride. She started first time as always, no smoke, no flat spots, no lag and she ran like a dream as she always has since i turned the spike filter upwards many months ago, i did glance down at the pipes a few times and noticed no glowing that i could see. Thanks for all your help and advice guys and i think i have now learned the valuable lesson of not to leave an air cooled running stood still for too long and have the feeling i may have got away with this one lightly. You live and you learn :up:
:2thumbs:lesson learned, glad all worked out, nothing like an assuring ride to cure the unknown
Cherry red pipes would be caused from an extreme lean condition(def not rich) which the odds of being that lean would be extremely low, a valve issue or timing issue( timing too retarded) is more like it.
MIne looks hot just hanging on the wall
I don't really ride far enough between stops for mine to actually ever come up to normal operating temperature
Bringing up 3 y/o threads hu? and people follows you!!!