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How to swap out your exhaust

Discussion in 'How-To' started by Gas Man, Apr 10, 2007.

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  1. Gas Man

    Gas Man Cool isn't cheap
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    "How To" swap out your exhaust

    Ok... so you want to dump that big & restrictive BDM exhaust.

    For me the obviously easy choice was to go for the Vance & Hines Big Radius exhaust.

    So out with the old
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    First you will want to remove the 2 flange bolts on each cylinder. This will require a 1/2" hex socket and an extension.

    Once you get those un-done. Remove the bolts holding the stock exhaust bracket to the bike. Now I don't have any pics of the old bracket on the bike.
    However, that's ok because with softail vs. ridged and all the different models this will vary.

    Here's where the bracket is located on the pipes and where you'll find the 2 mounting bolts.
    [​IMG]

    Also, you may want to get a extra hand doing this cause let me tell you the stock exhaust is HEAVY!

    Now set this stock POS aside
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. Gas Man

    Gas Man Cool isn't cheap
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    Now you have a naked or de-exhausted bike.
    [​IMG]

    Inspect your exhaust gaskets both front and rear and replace if necessary. You generally get about 2 swaps or remove and re-installs out of a set of
    exhaust gaskets. But not always. Here is a pic of a good condition set of gaskets.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Also inspect your exhaust studs at this time for any wear.

    Now get your new pipes assembled and ready for install. This will vary with each different set of pipes. For me it was removing the heat shields with a
    screw driver, putting on the snap ring, and LOOSELY mounting the new exhaust-mounting bracket to the new pipes. Use blue (removable)
    loc-tite on all these mounting nuts and bolts.

    Slide them into place at each cylinder and start the nuts onto the exhaust studs to finger tight.

    Then put in at least one of the 2 mounting bolts from the bracket to the bike. Shown here...
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Gas Man

    Gas Man Cool isn't cheap
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    Now tighten up the exhaust flanges to the cylinders using BDM's recommended method of.

    Or in other words do the bottom bolts first to 20 in/lbs then the top to 60-80 in/lbs then go back to the bottom bolts and do those to the same 60-80 in/lbs.

    Once that is done tighten up your mount to pipe bolts to the manufacture specs of that exhaust.

    Now tighten the mount to frame bolts to 25 ft/lbs.

    Re-install your heat shields if you got them and you should have a much cooler and much louder bike.

    But wipe down all your finger prints before firing up the bad boy. That way you don't burn the spots into the heat shields.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    #3 Gas Man, Apr 10, 2007
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2007
  4. chucktx

    chucktx Well-Known Member

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    nice how to....good info....if i may add, wipe/clean the pipes of all finger prints,oil, grease before starting the bike...that way they wont show up after the pipes get hot....just a thought....
    chuck
     
  5. BDWB

    BDWB Active Member

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    I have read that the V&H will rub the ground once installed if you are not careful around turns - is this a reason to stay with a straight pipe?
     
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  6. Gas Man

    Gas Man Cool isn't cheap
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    This is true! I did do that but didn't think to note it! Good call!


    This is true as well. Vickie from KC Creations has a fix to this. A aftermarket lower pipe heat shield. Cut back a bit farther. Flows nicely and you'd never notice the difference besides the fact that it don't drag!
     
  7. BDWB

    BDWB Active Member

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    Gas Man do you have this heat shield installed in the above pictures? I am interested in seeing a pic. Thanks
     
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